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Few wristwatches can claim to bridge the gap between art provocateur Andy Warhol and beloved British royal, Princess Di, but then again, few watches are the Cartier Tank watch. Sophisticated and stylish, the Tank has been the refined choice of movie stars, politicians, tycoons, and more for over 100 years.
The watch has inspired countless imitators, but of course, there is only one Cartier Tank Watch. Let’s look at the history of this iconic timepiece and see how it is holding up in the modern smartwatch era.
History of the Cartier Tank Watch
In 2017, the “most iconic watch on the planet” celebrated a full century of beguiling watch lovers around the world. The company behind the Tank Watch, Cartier, has existed since 1847 when it was founded by French jeweler, Louis-François Cartier. Known for both its jewelry and watches, the company is the preferred supplier of luxury goods for royalty around the world.
The Tank was originally designed by Louis-François’ grandson, Louis Cartier, in 1917, supposedly based on the design of the military vehicle that bears the same name. That design inspiration may be spurious, but the timepiece was cemented into military history when the first of its kind was presented to General John Pershing, leader of the American forces in World War I, as a celebration of victory over the Central Powers.
In 1919, six Tank watches were released and immediately sold out. So began the prestigious career of Cartier’s most renowned and beloved wristwatch. It certainly helped that the number of Tank watches produced each year never rose much above 100 until the 60s. Even as mass production began changing the industry, Cartier hued to traditional production numbers. New leadership in the company led to expanded production of the watch line, but the watch remained a popular accessory for the well-heeled.
In the century since the Tank first appeared, Cartier has released quite a few variations on the model, including the Tank Louis, the Tank Americaine, and the Tank Francaise. Each update tweaked the original design to some degree, but the Tank watch, no matter the version, maintains its distinctive design.
The Design of the Cartier Tank Watch
The original Tank watch established the iconic look: Roman numeral hours; minutes marked by a rectangle with “railroad” or tank tread lines; blue steel hands; and a convex sapphire mounted into the crown. Of course, the watch is probably most recognizable by its rectangle case and its band that almost matches the case’s width. The watch band also utilized a deployment (or deployant) buckle, a type of buckle created by Louis Cartier.
Taken together, the different design elements add up to a truly unique timepiece. As discussed, the various versions of the Tank have changed the design in small, specific ways over the years, but a true Cartier Tank is unmistakable.
Celebrities and the Cartier Tank Watch
Whether the Tank’s icon status is a result of its many famous admirers, or it has earned those celebrity endorsements because of its icon status, the result is the same: luminaries love the Tank.
The list of celebrities, movers and shakers, and royalty who have been seen wearing a Tank is too long to get into here, but just to give an idea of its popularity, consider these famous names: First Ladies Jackie Kennedy and Michelle Obama, actors Clark Gable, Catherine Deneuve, and Fred Astaire, and, of course, the aforementioned Andy Warhol and Princess Diana. Those are just some of the icons who proudly wore (or wear) a Tank.
#1 Best Overall
- SIZE SELECTION: Available in 14mm 15mm 16mm 17mm 18mm 19mm 20mm 21mm 22mm 23mm and 24mm, please accurately measure your watch lug width and choose the right size
- WATCH BAND MATERIAL: Vintage Crazy Horse Leather lined with soft genuine leather, comfortable on your wrist, polished solid stainless steel buckle
- RETRO LOOKING: Natural crack appears when the leather is bent (NOTE: the black strap no crack), elegant and stylish. It's a loud little piece that express your style and personality
- BAND LENGTH: This strap is a regular length, suitable for wrists of 6" to 8", please refer to figure 6 for details
- BISONSTRAP SERVICE：If there are any question about the strap, please email us. REFUND or FREE REPLACEMENT, we will try our best to satisfy every customer
The modern Cartier Tank Watch
The classic Tank watch is no longer in production, but the current run includes six different lines: Tank Louis Cartier, Tank Américaine, Tank Française, Tank MC, Tank Solo, and the Tank Cintrée. Let’s take a look at a couple of them.
The women’s Tank Francaise (see its current price on Amazon), first released in 1996, is a fine example of how Cartier has brought their classic timepiece into the modern era. The traditional leather band is replaced by a stainless steel deployment buckle, but the classic Roman numeral and railroad face remain, as does the sapphire crown.
Meanwhile, the Men’s Tank Solo mixes classic and modern the same way it mixes a silver dial with a gold case. On looks alone, it is almost identical to the original Tank. The biggest difference is on the inside: the Tank Solo has quartz movement instead of the traditional Swiss mechanical movement of the original.
Tank watch look-alikes
Unsurprisingly, with an iconic watch of such distinctive design, numerous other companies have piggybacked off the look of the Tank. Of course, it’s not just the rectangle design that these companies emulate, but the entire aesthetic effect.
Take for instance the SUP880 analog quartz watch by Japanese watchmaker Seiko (click to see it on Amazon). There is no question that this solar-powered wristwatch was based on the Tank, with its signature roman numeral hour markers and the railroad-style box running within the interior.
Seiko is a respectable watchmaker, but it’s not in the same realm as Cartier, which is why you can find their Tank look-alike for a tenth as much as the real deal.
Another company that has clearly taken inspiration from Cartier is American watchmaker, Bulova. Their Classic Collection includes a rectangular watch with a crocodile leather band (check its price on Amazon), which doesn’t completely borrow its look from the Tank, but the resemblance is pretty obvious. The black and silver watch dispenses with the railroad tracks, but it still uses Roman numerals.
Honestly, this watch is distinctive enough to avoid immediate comparisons, but the Tank’s design is so iconic, any watch that even comes close to it will have to accept the comparisons.
There were rectangular watches before the Tank, and there have been plenty since. It’s a style that comes and goes out of fashion. The Tank, on the other hand, seems to defy all rules of fashion, remaining in demand a full century after its creation. Even as the industry turns to hi-tech gadgetry and smartwatches, the classic Cartier Tank remains definitely relevant, as icons always do.
Quick Recap
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- The strap is made of waxed style cowhide, which becomes lighter in color after bending, giving it a high-end vintage feel. The waxed leather strap becomes more shiny, softer, and more comfortable to wear over time.
- The stainless steel folding clasp is more convenient to use, saving you time when putting on and taking off the watch. The quick-release design eliminates the need for tools when changing the strap, making it faster to switch straps.
- 125mm+75mm in length, with 9 adjustment holes, to meet the needs of larger wrist sizes [5.9 inches-8.1 inches/150-205 mm], flat design, each part is 3.0mm thick.
- Available in 18 19 20 21 22mm widths, suitable for Timex, for Seiko, for Citizen and other watches. Please confirm the width of your watch strap interface before placing an order.
- 24-hour after-sales service, if you have any questions about the product, please contact us and we will give you a satisfactory result.
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- Watch Strap Material: Made of top grain leather in distressed workmanship and the lower layer that touches the wrist is comfortable suede calfskin lining, with classic tone to tone stitch and solid stainless steel buckle. These bands strike the perfect balance between durability and style, making them suitable for both casual and formal occasions
- Quick Installation: No tools required, the integrated quick release stainless steel spring bar allows you to change watch bands in seconds by simply sliding the knob with fingers
- Band Width (Size): 16 18 19 20 22 24 millimeter. In order to get a suitable strap, please measure inner distance in millimeter between two horns on your watch. Thickness around 3.5-4.5mm
- Strap Length: 125mm+75mm. Suitable for wrist around 5.9 to 8 inch (150mm to 205mm), but watch dial also impacts fit. Compatible with most traditional watches and smart watches which lug width is standard 18 mm, 20 mm, 22 mm
- Use and Maintenance: Please avoid soaking your leather strap in the water repeatedly and continued sunlight exposure. It is not recommended to wear it to shower or swim
Rank #3
- 【Italian Tuscany leather】 — The leather is made of vegetable tanned cowhide leather from the famous Italian leather factory BADALASSI CARLO. This leather is tanned with natural vegetable tanning agents, avoiding the use of harmful chemicals. It is natural and harmless to the skin.
- 【Natural Full-Grain Leather】 — Each strap retains the original pores and natural grain, giving it a unique character and authentic feel. Over time, Italian vegetable-tanned leather softens and develops a rich patina and luster, reflecting timeless elegance and sophistication. A premium material trusted by luxury brands, it makes your watch truly stand out.
- 【Unique Features of Un‑Sandered Full‑Grain Leather】 — Our watch strap is made of high‑quality full‑grain leather. This natural leather has not been sanded, so its original surface pores remain clearly visible.
- 【ISO9001 Certified】— Raw leather materials are sourced from Tuscany, Italy and shipped to China by sea for processing. All items are manufactured in strict accordance with the ISO9001 quality management system to deliver consistent premium quality.
- 【Structure & Size Selection】— Please measure your watch lug width before purchasing. The strap comes in a length of 120mm + 75mm, fitting most wrist sizes. The buckle‑side thickness is 4.5 mm, while the tail‑end thickness is 3.2 mm. Designed with quick‑release spring bars for effortless installation and replacement.
Rank #2
- 【Italian Tuscany leather】 — The leather is made of vegetable tanned cowhide leather from the famous Italian leather factory BADALASSI CARLO. This leather is tanned with natural vegetable tanning agents, avoiding the use of harmful chemicals. It is natural and harmless to the skin.
- 【Natural Full-Grain Leather】 — Each strap retains the original pores and natural grain, giving it a unique character and authentic feel. Over time, Italian vegetable-tanned leather softens and develops a rich patina and luster, reflecting timeless elegance and sophistication. A premium material trusted by luxury brands, it makes your watch truly stand out.
- 【Unique Features of Un‑Sandered Full‑Grain Leather】 — Our watch strap is made of high‑quality full‑grain leather. This natural leather has not been sanded, so its original surface pores remain clearly visible. Since each hide is distinct, there will be natural variations in grain patterns, particle size and color tone. Please understand that slight differences between your delivered strap and our main images are expected and are not manufacturing flaws. Every single strap is truly one‑of‑a‑kind.
- 【ISO9001 Certified】— Raw leather materials are sourced from Tuscany, Italy and shipped to China by sea for processing. All items are manufactured in strict accordance with the ISO9001 quality management system to deliver consistent premium quality.
- 【Structure & Size Selection】— Please measure your watch lug width before purchasing. The strap comes in a length of 120mm + 75mm, fitting most wrist sizes. The buckle‑side thickness is 4.5 mm, while the tail‑end thickness is 3.2 mm. Designed with quick‑release spring bars for effortless installation and replacement. For construction: The top layer is full‑grain cowhide, the bottom lining is top‑grain cowhide, and the middle layer is filled with cowhide and foam for shaping and reinforcement.
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
