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Calibre 135

Zenith G.F.J.: The 160th-Anniversary Watch and Calibre 135

Zenith’s G.F.J. marks 160 years with a 160-piece platinum watch built around a modern Calibre 135. Here are its design, movement history and how the later tantalum model differs.

By WatchRanker Team 4 min read
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Zenith introduced the G.F.J. in 2025 to mark its 160th anniversary. Named for founder Georges Favre-Jacot, the original edition pairs a 39 mm platinum case and a layered lapis lazuli dial with a modern, hand-wound Calibre 135. It was limited to 160 pieces; its movement carries forward a competition-focused design with a 72-hour power reserve, stop-seconds and COSC certification.

What the Zenith G.F.J. celebrates

Zenith traces its manufacture to 1865, when Georges Favre-Jacot set out to make what the brand describes as a “perfect watch.” The G.F.J. takes its name from his initials and was introduced for the company’s 160th anniversary. Zenith frames it as a contemporary interpretation of the Calibre 135, a movement with a significant place in the manufacture’s chronometry history.

That distinction matters: the 2025 platinum G.F.J. is not simply a vintage Calibre 135 in a new case. Its movement is a modern re-engineering, designed to preserve the historic architecture’s identity while adding practical updates.

Why Calibre 135 is important

A movement built with competition in mind

Zenith says technical director Charles Ziegler commissioned watchmaker Ephrem Jobin to design Calibre 135. The name refers to the movement’s 13-ligne diameter—about 30 mm—and its 5 mm thickness. Produced from 1949 to 1962, the family included a commercial Calibre 135 and the 135-O, a version made for observatory trials.

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The 135-O’s competition record is the best-known part of that story. Zenith reports that it won 235 chronometry prizes and took first place in the Neuchâtel Observatory wristwatch category for five consecutive years, from 1950 through 1954. Those are figures published by the manufacturer, not independently audited totals. Zenith also reports 2,333 chronometry prizes across its movements.

What changed in the modern movement

The new hand-wound Calibre 135 keeps the 2.5 Hz rate—18,000 vibrations per hour—and the Breguet overcoil and oversized balance wheel associated with the design. Zenith says the modern version increases the power reserve from 40 hours in the historical movement to 72 hours, adds stop-seconds for setting the time precisely, and is COSC-certified. The brand states that it regulates the movement to within ±2 seconds per day; that is Zenith’s specification, not a timing result from independent testing of this watch.

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Calibre 135 detail Historical movement Modern G.F.J. movement
Type Hand-wound; commercial 135 and observatory-trial 135-O Hand-wound Calibre 135 re-engineering
Power reserve 40 hours, according to Zenith 72 hours, according to Zenith
Rate Not stated in the cited Zenith launch material 2.5 Hz / 18,000 vph
Other stated features 135-O made for observatory trials Stop-seconds, Breguet overcoil, oversized balance wheel and COSC certification

The original 2025 platinum G.F.J.

Case and dial

The anniversary model has a 39 mm round platinum case with a stepped bezel, curved stepped lugs and a sapphire crystal. Its dial is arranged in three distinct zones: a guilloché outer ring with a brick-like pattern, a deep-blue central disc of lapis lazuli with natural pyrite flecks, and an oversized mother-of-pearl small-seconds counter at six o’clock. The hour markers are white gold.

The materials make the dial more than a single slab of blue stone. The lapis provides the central field, while the guilloché ring and iridescent small-seconds display create visible changes in texture and light around it.

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Movement, straps and edition

The platinum watch is powered by the modern hand-wound Calibre 135 and was limited to 160 pieces. Zenith lists a dark-blue alligator strap, a black calfskin strap and a blue Saffiano calfskin strap; a seven-row platinum bracelet is available on request. The reference is 40.1865.0135/51.C200.

Zenith announced boutique and authorized-retailer pre-orders at launch, but that announcement does not establish current stock. Availability needs to be checked with Zenith or an authorized retailer in the buyer’s market.

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Price and award context

The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry reported a Japan-market price of ¥6,952,000 on August 28, 2025. This is a dated regional report, not a current quote or a universal price; ask a local authorized retailer for current pricing and availability.

On November 14, 2025, Zenith announced that the G.F.J. had won the Chronometry Prize at the 25th Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. The award recognizes the watch’s precision-oriented movement story, but it should not be confused with an independent timing test of an individual example.

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How the 2026 tantalum G.F.J. differs

Zenith announced a separate G.F.J. variant in April 2026. It is not the 2025 platinum anniversary edition: the later watch has a 39.5 mm tantalum case, a black onyx central dial, a grey mother-of-pearl small-seconds counter, diamond indexes and a 20-piece limit. It retains the Calibre 135, 72-hour reserve and COSC certification.

Feature 2025 platinum anniversary edition 2026 tantalum variant
Case material and diameter Platinum, 39 mm Tantalum, 39.5 mm
Dial details Lapis lazuli centre; mother-of-pearl small seconds; white-gold markers Black onyx centre; grey mother-of-pearl small seconds; diamond indexes
Edition size 160 pieces 20 pieces
Movement Hand-wound Calibre 135; 72-hour reserve; COSC-certified Calibre 135; 72-hour reserve; COSC-certified

Sources

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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