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What is a vitreous enamel watch dial?
Vitreous, or grand feu, enamel is glass fused to metal. anOrdain describes grinding enamel from lump form into powder, applying it by hand to a metal disc, then firing successive layers. The surface is therefore a fused glass coating on a metal base, rather than paint on a completed dial. The term “grand feu” is used for this kind of fired enamel, but the process details here describe anOrdain’s own practice, not a universal recipe. anOrdain’s enamelling process
How does anOrdain make an opaque enamel dial?
- Prepare and apply the enamel. anOrdain grinds the material into powder and applies it to the metal base in layers.
- Fire the dial. The company says it fires enamel at more than 830°C. Firing time depends on the enamel’s chemical composition.
- Inspect and correct. After cooling, the dial is checked for bubbles and inclusions. Faults can be removed and refilled before the next firing.
- Repeat and finish. The application, firing, inspection and sanding cycle continues until the colour depth and surface height are right. anOrdain says the final firing creates the sheen. anOrdain’s process description
In a 2019 account, anOrdain said a dial could involve up to eight layers and an average of 8–10 hours of enamellist work. Those are figures reported by the brand in that article, not independent measurements or a current production guarantee. anOrdain’s 2019 explanation of enamel dials
How is a fumé enamel dial different?
Opaque enamel covers the base in a solid colour. For fumé, anOrdain uses transparent enamel over a domed silver base, allowing the underlying surface and its treatment to contribute to the gradient. The company says it stamps a grained texture into the silver and polishes the base before applying enamel. anOrdain’s fumé method
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The method grew from an experiment: a silver blank warped and domed in the kiln; after it was sanded flat, the enamellers noticed a gradient effect and developed a way to reproduce it. According to anOrdain, controlling cracks is a particular challenge because silver and enamel expand and contract at different rates as they heat and cool. In some places the enamel may be only one tenth of a millimetre thick. This is the maker’s account of its own fumé process, not a claim about every maker’s technique. anOrdain’s fumé method
What happens after the enamel is fired?
Printing the dial
Enamelling does not complete the dial. anOrdain uses pad printing to transfer markings: a ceramic cliché plate is engraved to 24 microns (0.024 mm), ink is picked up with a silicone pad and transferred to the dial, and the print is inspected. The company says it cures the ink in a kiln at up to 140°C for 40 minutes to avoid smudging. Because handmade dials vary in shape and size, each is positioned manually for printing. These are the company’s described production details. anOrdain’s dial-printing process
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Fitting the dial into a watch
After printing, the dial goes to watchmakers for assembly. anOrdain says the extra depth of enamel can require changing movement wheels so the hands pass freely above the dial; it also says its watches are assembled in-house. anOrdain’s watchmaking process
What is the difference between enamel and porcelain watch dials?
| Feature | Vitreous enamel, as anOrdain describes it | Porcelain, as anOrdain describes it |
|---|---|---|
| Dial body | Glass-based enamel powder on a metal disc | A formed clay body |
| Surface | The enamel melts and bonds to the metal | A vitreous glaze is fused to the clay body |
| Stated firing temperature | About 840°C on the porcelain comparison page; more than 830°C on the process page | Clay may be fired up to 1300°C |
These are anOrdain’s stated process temperatures, not standard temperatures for every enamel or porcelain dial. The essential material distinction is glass-on-metal versus glazed clay; “porcelain” is not another name for vitreous enamel. The company’s descriptions do not establish a general durability ranking between the two materials. anOrdain’s porcelain comparison and enamel process page
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When comparing specific watches, consider the dial construction and appearance, then compare case size, movement and other specifications, current availability and price on the seller’s live product page. anOrdain’s pages are useful for understanding its own materials and methods, but they are not a neutral, apples-to-apples product test.
Why are enamel dials difficult to make?
- Every firing carries risk. Bubbles, inclusions, cracks or warping can appear during heating or cooling. Inspection and correction may be needed between firings.
- The surface needs repeated finishing. Layers must reach the intended height and colour depth, with sanding and further firing as needed.
- Fumé adds a thin-layer challenge. The silver and glass respond differently to temperature changes, while the transparent enamel can be extremely thin in places.
- Defects can mean starting again. anOrdain’s 2019 article says a dial with flaws may be discarded and restarted, and links the high rejection risk to the time and cost of hand production. It does not give an independent defect rate. anOrdain’s 2019 account
- Handmade variation continues downstream. Dial shape and size variation means manual positioning for printing, and enamel thickness can affect the clearance needed for the hands.
The available production figures are specific to anOrdain’s accounts; they should not be treated as a sector-wide average or as a promise about how long any particular dial will take.
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How can you check anOrdain enamel watch availability?
Availability can change. When accessed for this article, anOrdain’s FAQ said enamel watches were made on an ongoing basis but subject to a waiting list because dial production was limited. It distinguished those from some Fabrik and Model 2 Porcelain watches that could be in stock with lead times shown on product pages. Check the current anOrdain FAQ and the individual listing at anOrdain’s website for the latest status.
Where can you learn more about enamelling?
For practical background beyond watchmaking, The Crowood Press describes Sheila McDonald’s Creative Enamelling: Materials, Method and Magic as a guide to enamelling materials and methods. It is a general enamelling book, not a dedicated manual for making watch dials. The Crowood Press book page
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For a concise overview of the enameller’s craft in watchmaking, the Foundation of the Haute Horlogerie also has an explanation of the profession. Foundation of the Haute Horlogerie: Enameller
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