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Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is a 1.85 mm-thick mechanical wristwatch launched during the 2025 Watches and Wonders news cycle. Launch coverage described it as the world’s thinnest tourbillon-equipped wristwatch. Its hand-wound BVF 900 movement beats at 4 Hz and stores 42 hours of power.
What makes the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon different?
The achievement is the thickness of the complete watch, not just its movement. Bulgari fits a 40 mm case, a skeletonized flying tourbillon, winding and time-setting controls, and an integrated bracelet into a package only 1.85 mm thick.
The specification needs a reference caveat. Bulgari’s current product page identifies a platinum model as reference 104344, while launch reports identify reference 103834. Case material, market designation and availability should therefore be checked against the reference offered by a boutique or authorized retailer.
How a mechanical watch can be 1.85 mm thick
The caseback becomes part of the movement
Conventional watches use a separate caseback behind the movement. The Ultra architecture uses the caseback and mainplate as a structural system, letting the components occupy the available footprint instead of stacking inside a conventional movement holder. Bulgari and its development partners reported eight patent applications covering key systems in this ultra-thin architecture.
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#1 Best Overall
- Mens luxury dress watch: Diamond & Roman numeral time scales, combined with a multi-functional date window, allow you to easily grasp the time. With exquisite moon phase design, this men's watch adds trendy fashion taste to you.
- Automatic mechanical Watch: Imported self-winding movement, no battery, stable timekeeping. Skeleton tourbillon design to clearly see the inner workings, feel the power of mechanical rhythm, suitable for business and leisure occasions.
- ⌚ 316L Stainless steel Watch: Classic stainless steel strap is wear-resistant and sweat-proof, butterfly clasp is convenient and safe. Equipped with a tool that allows you to easily adjust the length of the strap. The hardlex mirror surface is scratch-resistant.
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- ⌚ OLEVS Mens watches: Watch dial diameter 41.5mm, thickness 13mm, strap width 22mm, length 20cm, net weight 138g. If you have any questions, please contact us via email and we will solve it for you as soon as possible.
The engineering challenge extends beyond the caliber. As Bulgari design executive Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani told WatchTime, the record required rethinking “the movement design, but also of the case, the caseback, the bracelet and the folding clasp.”
Tungsten carbide and reference-specific cases
The movement is housed by a tungsten-carbide main plate. Launch descriptions report a microbead-frosted titanium bezel, case middle and lugs, while Bulgari’s current 104344 listing presents a platinum case and bracelet. These are not contradictory universal specifications; they describe different reference configurations.
Rank #2
- LUXURY MEN'S WATCH: This watch is made of classic large dial and stable quartz movement. The hard coated glass is scratch-resistant and the butterfly clasp ensures comfortable wearing. Delicate moon phase and tourbillon men's watch skeletonized design, enhance the watch grade
- WATCH DETAILS: the diameter of the mirror is 42MM(1.65 inch), the thickness of the case is 11.5MM(0.45 inch), the length of the strap is 200MM(7.87 inch). the length of the watch can be adjusted, the weight of the watch is 129G (4.55 ounces）
- LUMINOUS WATCH:Shining the watch under strong light for 30-40 seconds can activate the luminous function, which brings you a new visual experience at night. Detailed instructions for adjusting the time and calendar are included in the owner's manual
- STYLISH GIFT: Fashionable and elegant design for all men who care about quality and style. Multi-functional and stylish men's watches are suitable for any occasions, including parties, work, daily life and dating
- WATERPROOF MEN'S WATCH: waterproof for daily life, waterproof up to 30 M, generally resistant to splashing or brief immersion in water, but not suitable for swimming or bathing
Planar controls replace a conventional crown
A normal crown would add unacceptable height. Two controls are arranged in the plane of the case: the left control winds the movement and the right control sets the time. The integrated bracelet is reported at 1.5 mm including its clasp.
A skeletonized flying tourbillon
The BVF 900 adds a skeletonized flying-tourbillon construction to the Ultra platform. Its open architecture exposes the regulating assembly while avoiding the visual and structural bulk of a conventional upper bridge.
Rank #3
- Mens wrist watch is designed with luxurious skeleton, just like a delicate collection. The moon phase dial matches well with the gold tourbillon. Fashion watches are not only suitable for daily wear but also pleasing to the eye.
- High quality import original automatic mechanical movement, no battery, can be manual and self-winding. The smooth silver case and pointer time mark show the taste of mature men.
- The soft black leather strap has been pressed and waxed layer by layer to keep its luster. The watch weighs nearly 2.4oz (68g), creating a more lightweight wearing feeling and excellent comfort for you.
- 164FT (50M) waterproof function and luminous pointer, splashproof and rainproof. Simple functions can meet your daily wear or outdoor sports.
- OLEVS Men's Watches: This store offers 60 days free returns and a 2-year product warranty, extended to after Christmas, so there is no need to worry about damaged goods that cannot be returned for a refund. Package includes watch/gift box/free adjustment tool/user guide. If you encounter problems while using the watch, you can contact us through Amazon and a professional after-sales team will provide you with services.
Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon specifications
| Specification | Reported detail |
|---|---|
| Overall thickness | 1.85 mm for the complete watch |
| Case diameter | 40 mm |
| Movement | Bulgari BVF 900, hand-wound |
| Frequency | 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) |
| Power reserve | 42 hours |
| Tourbillon | Skeletonized flying tourbillon |
| Main plate | Tungsten carbide |
| Current Bulgari reference | 104344, shown by Bulgari in a platinum case and bracelet |
| Launch reference | 103834, identified in launch reporting |
| Launch titanium details | Microbead-frosted titanium bezel, case middle and lugs, as reported for the launch configuration |
| Bracelet thickness | 1.5 mm including the clasp, according to launch reports |
| Patent activity | Eight patent applications were reported for the key ultra-thin systems |
How it compares with earlier Octo Finissimo records
| Model | What was measured | Movement and reserve | Complication or configuration |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2014 Octo Finissimo Tourbillon | Movement thickness: 1.95 mm | Hand-wound; power reserve not stated in the cited material | Earlier Octo Finissimo tourbillon |
| 2022 Octo Finissimo Ultra | Overall watch: 1.8 mm | BVL 180 movement: 1.50 mm; 50-hour reserve | Ultra-thin time-only platform; WatchTime documented 170 integrated components and eight patent applications for this generation |
| 2025 Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon | Overall watch: 1.85 mm | BVF 900; 4 Hz; 42-hour reserve | Skeletonized flying tourbillon in a reference-specific titanium or platinum configuration |
The comparison shows why the new watch is a distinct record rather than simply a thinner version of the 2022 Ultra. The 2022 model is thinner overall, at 1.8 mm, but does not add a tourbillon. The 2025 watch incorporates that complication while remaining below two millimeters.
Price, edition size and buying prospects
Fratello reported a launch price of €750,000 and a 20-piece edition. Time and Watches reported the price as available on request. Those figures are launch-era context, not a guarantee of the current commercial terms for reference 104344 or any regional allocation.
Rank #4
- ⌚ Automatic watches for men: Original mechanical movement, support manual winding and self winding. No battery required. Signature tourbillon dial revealing intricate gears. Suitable for daily wear in casual or business occasions.
- ⌚ Men's Wrist Watches: Unique black skeleton machine design. With diamonds and Roman numerals as hour markers, its exquisite multifunction dial has a luminous function. Allowing you to enjoy the luxury dress mens watches charm.
- ⌚ Mens Dress Watches: 100ft Water resistant, splashproof and rainproof. Hardlex mirror, wear-resistant and scratch-resistant. The month, week and date window display is more practical. (To change the month and date, you need to manually press the button on the right)
- ⌚ 316L Stainless steel watch: Full black stainless steel strap is sweat-proof and scratch-resistant. The hidden butterfly buckle is easy to wear and remove, making you more comfortable to wear. Each watch comes with an adjuster for adjusting the strap size.
- ⌚ OLEVS WATCH MEN: Packaged in a gift box, it is an ideal gift for men. Watch dial diameter 41mm, thickness 13mm, strap width 20mm, length 20cm, net weight 152g. Suitable for most men to wear. If you encounter problems, please feel free to contact us via email and we will solve it for you as soon as possible.
No verified current online inventory or independent laboratory test was established in the cited coverage. A collector seeking one should ask a Bulgari boutique or authorized retailer to confirm the exact reference, metal, edition status, price, delivery terms and service arrangements.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.What collectors should understand before pursuing one
- It is a complete-watch record: the 1.85 mm claim applies to the case, movement, controls and bracelet-integrated architecture together.
- Reference matters: launch titanium specifications and the current platinum 104344 listing should not be presented as one interchangeable model.
- Usability is highly specialized: winding and setting use flat controls rather than a familiar crown, an unavoidable consequence of the thickness target.
- Scarcity is part of the proposition: the reported 20-piece run and six-figure-euro launch price place it in haute horlogerie territory, subject to confirmation for the current offering.
Verdict
The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is significant because Bulgari added a flying tourbillon without abandoning the Ultra platform’s extreme case architecture. Its 1.85 mm total thickness, 4 Hz BVF 900 and 42-hour reserve make it a genuine mechanical engineering record, while the titanium-versus-platinum reference split means buyers must verify the exact watch rather than rely on launch photographs or headlines.
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Best Value
- Global warming accelerates glacial melting, causing severe ecological damage to Earth. Inspired by “Never-Melting Ice,” Agelocer's Swiss Chief Designer Etienne Ruffieux grand launch this full sapphire case free-sprung balance flying tourbillon watch, urging awareness of climate change. Honored with the 2022 German Design Award for its exceptional design, this tourbillon is globally limited to 100 pieces.
- The entire watch case is crafted from 5N (99.999%) high-purity sapphire crystal; 5N-grade sapphire crystal boasts a Mohs 9 hardness rating (second only to diamond) and exceptional transparency. Its superior hardness renders the case scratch and wear resistant, ensuring a flawless, long-lasting finish that stands the test of time. High transparency enables us to clearly appreciate the mechanical artistry of the ultimate skeletonized flying tourbillon.
- Self developed design CAL9001 free-sprung balance flying tourbillon movement, manual winding, 28,880 vibrations/hour, 25 ruby bearings. Satin brushed finish and chamfered edges with premium finishing techniques; Brand logo engraved and gold foiled. Dual mainspring series technology delivers 80-hour power reserve (twice that of standard tourbillon movements). This technology ensures more uniform and gradual mainspring release, resulting in enhanced timekeeping precision and stability.
- The CAL9001 tourbillon movement features the exclusive free-sprung micro-adjustment technology typically found only in luxury timepieces. This free-sprung system eliminates the need for a balance spring regulator, thereby overcoming the timing inaccuracies caused by regulator displacement in conventional mechanical movements. This ensures the watch delivers enhanced precision and stability in timekeeping.
- 50M water resistance for the entire watch; food-grade semi-transparent silicone strap, water/sweat/corrosion resistant, comfortable and durable to wear. Super-LumiNova luminous hands, paired with a butterfly double-press clasp. We promise a three-year global warranty service.
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
