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How to read this selection
Nine watchmaking Maisons took part in the Milan gathering. The event’s dates are reported differently: LVMH’s recap gives January 20–22, while Zenith’s release is dated January 19 and event coverage describes January 19–21. The selections below prioritize distinctive design and mechanical character, while distinguishing official brand information from details reported by watch publications.
For a wristwatch-first shortlist, start with Zenith, TAG Heuer, Bulgari, Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta. Louis Vuitton’s Camionnette and L’Epée 1839’s La Regatta broaden the field into horological objects rather than conventional watches.
Zenith DEFY: the most ambitious mechanical showcase
Zenith’s official announcement names five DEFY novelties, spanning openworked designs, ceramic, gold and an update to a historic reference. The range makes the strongest case for choosing a watch by its combination of contemporary materials and visible mechanics.
#1 Best Overall
- Case Size Diameter 43mm in Two Tone Case
- Two Tone Bracelet with Deployant Closure
- Black Guilloche Dial
- Luxury Fashion Swiss Watch with 2 Hand Quartz Movement
- MSRP: 1795.00
DEFY Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton
The collection’s first DEFY Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton is presented in fully openworked rose gold. Wallpaper* reports that it uses the El Primero 3630 SK movement and has a 50-hour power reserve. That reserve figure is secondary-source reporting, rather than a specification cited in Zenith’s announcement.
DEFY Skyline Chronograph in black ceramic
The black ceramic Skyline Chronograph is the more overtly sporty choice in the announced group. It contrasts with the tourbillon’s rose-gold skeleton construction: one emphasizes a dark, modern case and chronograph function, the other puts its openworked movement at the center of the design.
Rank #2
Other DEFY releases
- DEFY Skyline Skeleton in black and gold: a two-tone take on the openworked Skyline design.
- DEFY Skyline 36 updates: a smaller-diameter direction within the family; Zenith’s release names the updates but does not give dimensions in the cited announcement.
- DEFY Revival A3643: a contemporary tribute to a 1969 reference.
Zenith’s official announcement of the DEFY additions is the clearest source for the collection’s model names and lineup.
TAG Heuer Carrera: three chronographs, three different purposes
T3’s event coverage reports three Carrera releases that are easy to distinguish by complication and intended use. The specifications below come from that coverage, not an official product sheet.
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Rank #3
- 37mm IP Yellow Gold Case
- IP Yellow Gold Bracelet
- Silver Sunray Dial
- 3 ATM
- MSRP: 1450.00
| Model | Reported details | What sets it apart |
|---|---|---|
| Carrera Chronograph | 41 mm steel case; TH20-01 movement; blue, green or black dial options (T3, 2026) | The conventional chronograph option, with a choice of dial colors. |
| Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph | 42 mm titanium case (T3, 2026) | Its split-seconds complication is the most mechanically specialized of the three. |
| Carrera Seafarer | 42 mm case; champagne dial; high/low tide indicator (T3, 2026) | The tide display gives this chronograph family a marine-use angle. |
The standard chronograph is the most straightforward pick for everyday timing; the split-seconds model is aimed at a more complication-focused buyer; and the Seafarer’s tide indicator is the defining feature if that display is the draw. T3’s LVMH Watch Week roundup provides the reported dimensions and movement details.
Bulgari Maglia Milanese Monete: a secret watch with a Roman coin
The rose-gold Maglia Milanese Monete is a jewelry-led watch designed to conceal its dial beneath a central lid featuring an ancient Roman coin. Wallpaper* describes a diamond-set octagonal frame, Milanese mesh bracelet and mother-of-pearl dial, alongside the Piccolissimo BVP 100 manual movement.
Rank #4
- 35mm IP Yellow Gold Case
- Black Calf Leather Strap
- Black Guilloche Dial
- 5 ATM
- MSRP: 1095.00
The movement’s scale is part of the appeal: Stuff reports the revised Piccolissimo BVP100 measures 13.50 mm across and 2.50 mm thick, and weighs 1.9 g (Stuff, 2026). These figures describe the movement, not the complete watch. The Monete is the most distinctive choice here for someone drawn to jewelry construction and an element of reveal rather than an openly displayed dial.
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Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton
LVMH highlighted the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton among Daniel Roth’s releases. Its name and openworked rose-gold direction place it in the same broad conversation as Zenith’s skeletonized pieces, but the cited event recap does not provide detailed specifications for a direct technical comparison.
Best Value
- 42mm Stainless Steel Case
- Stainless Steel Bracelet
- Blue Sunray Dial
- 5 ATM
- MSRP: 1250.00
Gérald Genta Geneva Time Only
Wallpaper* identifies the Geneva Time Only as a 38 mm watch with an 8.5 mm profile. Those reported dimensions point to a notably restrained, slim time-only option amid the week’s more elaborate complications.
Louis Vuitton and L’Epée 1839: watches as objects
Louis Vuitton’s Camionnette and L’Epée 1839’s La Regatta show how far the week extended beyond wristwatches. They are better understood as horological objects, so comparing them with a daily-wear chronograph by size or wrist comfort would miss the point. Wallpaper* also highlights Louis Vuitton’s Escale Tiger’s Eye as a distinctive release.
Hublot’s material experimentation
Wallpaper* names the Classic Fusion All Black Camo, reported as a 300-piece limited edition. LVMH’s recap also emphasizes Hublot’s continuing experimentation with materials and cases. The limited-edition count is a reported product detail, not independent verification.
Which LVMH Watch Week release stands out for you?
- For visible high horology: Zenith’s DEFY Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton is the most mechanically theatrical selection.
- For a practical complication choice: compare TAG Heuer’s three Carrera versions by the complication you will actually use.
- For jewelry and concealment: Bulgari’s Maglia Milanese Monete combines a secret dial with a coin motif and fine mesh.
- For a slim, understated wristwatch: Gérald Genta’s reported 38 mm Geneva Time Only is the clearest counterpoint to the larger, busier releases.
- For display rather than wrist wear: consider Louis Vuitton’s Camionnette or L’Epée 1839’s La Regatta as horological objects.
LVMH’s event recap frames the gathering as a showcase for its Maisons, rather than presenting an official best-watch ranking. No universal winner follows from this varied lineup: the strongest choice depends on whether the priority is a complication, material, jewelry detail or object-like form.
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