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Breguet

Breguet Marine 5817 Big Date Review: A Sports-Luxe Breguet

The Breguet Marine 5817 Big Date pairs traditional Breguet details with a sports-luxe design. Here’s what its specifications and individual examples tell buyers.

By WatchRanker Team 4 min read
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The Breguet Marine 5817 Big Date is a good fit for someone who wants a luxury sports watch with unmistakable Breguet styling rather than the look of a conventional dive watch. Its guilloché dial, Roman numerals, blued hands and fluted case details meet practical sports-watch touches including a screw-down crown, luminous hands and a 10-bar water-resistance rating. The large date at six is useful, but it is also one of the dial’s most prominent features.

This is an editorial assessment of the model and its published specifications, not a hands-on test. The exact watch matters: materials, dials, straps or bracelets, dimensions and condition can differ between examples.

What makes the Marine 5817 distinctive?

The 5817 blends two design languages. Its Roman numerals, guilloché dial, blued Breguet hands and fluted details make it recognisably traditional; elongated lugs, crown protection, lume and a screw-down crown make it feel more suited to casual and sports-luxe wear than a delicate dress watch. The result is distinctive rather than understated. Whether that mix works is a matter of taste, but it avoids simply copying the visual formula of a typical dive watch.

The large date occupies a double aperture at six. That makes the display easy to spot at a glance, and also gives it considerable visual weight. Time+Tide’s 2019 review called it “a particularly useful complication.” If you prefer a restrained dial, the date window may feel too prominent; if quick date legibility matters, its scale is an advantage. Time+Tide’s review also highlights the fluted middle case, distinctive lugs, lume and gold rotor.

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Specifications: what Breguet publishes

The figures below are from Breguet’s selected steel-and-bracelet variant page. They describe that configuration, not every 5817 reference or individual pre-owned example.

Specification Breguet’s published figure or description
Case Steel; 39 mm diameter; 11.9 mm thick
Lug width 20 mm
Movement Automatic caliber 517 GG; 35 jewels; 285 components; 4 Hz; flat silicon hairspring
Power reserve 65 hours
Display Central seconds and big date
Case and water resistance Screw-down crown, sapphire caseback, 10 bar (100 m)
Dial Guilloché

These are manufacturer specifications rather than independent test results. Breguet’s selected steel variant page lists the dimensions and movement details. Its 5817 user manual says that an unworn, fully wound watch stops after approximately 65 hours.

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Is it suitable for everyday wear?

It has several traits that support everyday use: automatic winding, a practical date, a screw-down crown and a published 10-bar (100 m) water-resistance rating. Breguet describes the Marine 5817 as water-resistant to 10 bar in its manual. That rating does not establish that it is a purpose-built dive watch or that any specific example is safe for diving; the available sources do not provide a diving certification or independent water-resistance test.

Its style is better described as sports-luxe than tool-watch utilitarian. The dressier dial and polished, fluted details give it presence, while the lume and rubber-strap option make a more relaxed configuration possible. Time+Tide described the model as a weekender and sports-luxe alternative; that is an editorial characterization, not evidence of a wear test.

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For an individual pre-owned watch, condition and maintenance matter as much as the reference’s published features. Do not assume that an older watch retains its original water resistance: have its condition and seals assessed by a qualified watchmaker before exposing it to water.

Dimensions and fit: check the exact example

Breguet’s selected steel variant page gives a 39 mm diameter, 11.9 mm thickness and 20 mm lug width. Time+Tide reports a 39 mm case measuring 11.82 mm thick. Christie’s, however, catalogues a circa-2004 example at 40 mm. Those figures refer to different sources and examples, so there is no single measurement here that should be applied to every 5817.

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The 39 mm figures suggest a moderate case diameter on paper, but diameter alone does not determine wrist presence. The elongated lugs can affect how the watch sits and appears. If fit is important, confirm the exact reference and measurements and, where possible, try the specific watch on rather than relying only on a catalogue listing.

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What to check when buying a Breguet Marine 5817

Compare the actual watch, not just the model name. Auction records illustrate why: Christie’s describes a steel example with a rubber strap, while Phillips catalogues a steel example with a 2024 service invoice. The invoice applies only to that Phillips lot, not to all 5817s.

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  • Reference and material: Verify the exact reference and whether the case is steel or another material; do not assume specifications for the selected steel version apply to another configuration.
  • Dial and configuration: Check the dial color and finish, and whether the watch comes on rubber, leather or a bracelet. Confirm that the clasp is the one supplied and that any replacement parts are compatible.
  • Condition and originality: Inspect the case, dial, hands, bracelet or strap, and clasp. Ask for clear photographs and a description of any refinishing, replacement parts or damage.
  • Documentation and service: Check what papers, box and dated service records are actually included. A service record for one auction example is not evidence of another watch’s maintenance history.
  • Operation: Follow the model-specific manual for winding and date correction rather than forcing the crown or guessing at its positions.

Breguet’s manual describes the crown’s screwed position, winding position, rapid date correction and time-setting position. Consult the 5817 manual for the correct procedure.

Phillips’ catalogue essay dates the Marine collection’s introduction to 1990 and the 5817 to 2005, and describes the 5817 as the first Breguet timepiece to use a rubber strap. That is Phillips’ historical framing, rather than a claim independently established here from a Breguet archive. Phillips’ catalogue entry also shows why records and configuration should be checked lot by lot.

Verdict: a traditional Breguet with a sporty edge

The Marine 5817 Big Date is most appealing if you want Breguet’s classical visual signatures in a more versatile, sport-leaning package. Its large date is functional and expressive; the 10-bar rating and screw-down crown add practical reassurance, but do not turn it into a certified dive watch. Before buying, confirm the exact reference, fit, configuration, condition and service history of the individual example.

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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