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Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC: What Changed in the 2024 Watch

The 2024 Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC (ref. 104081) is a 40 mm titanium watch with a 1.70 mm case, COSC-certified BVL180 movement and 20-piece limit. Here is how it differs from the original Ultra and the later Tourbillon.
Estimate4–5 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team
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The 2024 Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, reference 104081, pairs a 1.70 mm titanium case with a 1.50 mm integrated bracelet and a COSC-certified manual-winding movement. It is a 40 mm watch limited to 20 pieces. Despite the “HANDS-ON” assignment title, the available sources do not document independent handling or wear testing, so this is a specification-led assessment rather than a personal wrist review.

What the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC is

Reference 104081 is Bulgari’s 2024 COSC version of the Octo Finissimo Ultra. The manufacturer lists an octagonal, sandblasted titanium case measuring 40 mm across and 1.70 mm thick, with an integrated titanium bracelet that is 1.50 mm thick. Its openworked dial exposes the mechanism, while the time display separates the hours and minutes into regulator-style indications and shows seconds on a wheel. Bulgari’s official product page is the source for these model specifications.

The profile is the point: this is a mechanical watch engineered around an unusually small vertical envelope, not a conventional dress watch made thin by omitting visible mechanical detail. The visual result is architectural and technical, with the octagonal outline and monochromatic sandblasted titanium framing the open mechanism. That design description follows the manufacturer’s product information; it is not a judgment based on wearing the watch.

Movement and specifications

Bulgari specifies a manual-winding BVL180 calibre, certified by COSC, running at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and providing a 50-hour power reserve. The brand lists a tungsten-carbide mainplate. The display divides hours and minutes rather than placing all three hands on a single central axis.

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Specification Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, ref. 104081
Case diameter 40 mm (Bulgari)
Case thickness 1.70 mm (Bulgari)
Bracelet thickness 1.50 mm (Bulgari)
Case and bracelet Sandblasted titanium; integrated titanium bracelet (Bulgari)
Movement Manual-winding BVL180, COSC-certified (Bulgari)
Frequency 28,800 vibrations per hour / 4 Hz (Bulgari)
Power reserve 50 hours (Bulgari)
Water resistance 0 m, as listed by Bulgari; the product page does not explain the practical interpretation
Edition Limited to 20 pieces (Bulgari)

That 0 m water-resistance figure is the manufacturer’s listing, not a basis for inferring a safe level of water exposure. The product page does not clarify what practical use, if any, Bulgari intends for the watch around water.

What changed from the original Ultra

The 2024 COSC is not the same reference as the original 2022 Octo Finissimo Ultra. The table separates the confirmed specifications of the three versions most likely to be confused. Bulgari’s pages provide the 2024 COSC and 2025 Tourbillon details; the original’s figures below come from Hodinkee’s 2022 report.

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Model Thickness Movement or complication Material Edition Water-resistance listing
Octo Finissimo Ultra, ref. 103611 (2022) 1.80 mm (Hodinkee) BVL Calibre 180; hours, minutes and seconds indicated separately (Hodinkee) Titanium (Hodinkee) 10 pieces (Hodinkee) 1 ATM (Hodinkee)
Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, ref. 104081 (2024) 1.70 mm case (Bulgari) COSC-certified BVL180; regulator-style hour and minute displays, seconds wheel (Bulgari) Sandblasted titanium case and integrated bracelet (Bulgari) 20 pieces (Bulgari) 0 m (Bulgari)
Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, ref. 104344 (2025) 1.85 mm (Bulgari) Hand-wound BVF 900 flying tourbillon; 42-hour reserve (Bulgari) Platinum (Bulgari) not stated on the cited Bulgari family page not stated on the cited Bulgari family page

The COSC version’s case is 0.10 mm thinner than the original, while its stated edition doubles from ten to 20 pieces. It also makes COSC certification an explicit part of the specification. The Tourbillon is a different watch, with a different movement and complication; its 1.85 mm thickness does not make it a later COSC variant. See Hodinkee’s report on the 2022 original and Bulgari’s Ultra family page for those respective models.

How the engineering context informs the design

WatchTime’s account of the 2022 original describes its caseback serving as the mainplate for the 170-component BVL Calibre 180. It also notes that the folding clasp had to be redesigned around the extremely low profile. Those details help explain the engineering problem the Ultra represents, but they are reported for the original reference and should not automatically be treated as a full construction specification for ref. 104081. WatchTime’s engineering account quotes Bulgari Product Creation Executive Director Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani: “The challenge of this eighth record was the most difficult to overcome, since we had to break the rules not only in terms of movement design, but also of the case, the caseback, the bracelet and the folding clasp.”

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Is the Ultra COSC the right version to seek?

The choice depends on what you want from the Ultra family, rather than on thickness alone.

  • Choose the COSC reference if you want the 1.70 mm titanium case, the 2024 edition’s stated COSC certification and a 20-piece limit.
  • Consider the original if you specifically want the first Ultra generation and its 1.80 mm profile; its reported edition was ten pieces.
  • Look at the Tourbillon if the flying tourbillon complication is the defining feature you want. It is a separate platinum model, ref. 104344, not a COSC edition of ref. 104081.

These distinctions describe published specifications, not comparative wrist comfort, accuracy in use, durability or robustness. No independent wear or performance test is documented here.

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Price, availability and practical limits

Bulgari’s product page provides a contact-for-purchase route and identifies a 20-piece limited edition, but does not state a current official price or stock status. Contact Bulgari or a store for current availability. A Chrono24 listing surfaced for reference 104081, but a secondary-market listing is not evidence of official pricing, present availability, seller quality or fair market value.

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