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The original Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra, reference 103611, debuted in 2022 at 1.80 mm thick and was announced as the world’s thinnest mechanical watch at the time. It is a ten-piece limited edition. The record claim is now historical: Bulgari’s 2024 Ultra COSC measures 1.70 mm, and a 2026 Wallpaper* report describes Konstantin Chaykin’s ThinKing production watch at 1.65 mm.
What is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra?
The 2022 Octo Finissimo Ultra is Bulgari’s record-setting ultra-thin mechanical watch, reference 103611. Its 40 mm case is just 1.80 mm thick. Bulgari Japan’s launch release specifies a manually wound BVL180 movement, a 50-hour power reserve, 28,800 vibrations per hour and water resistance of 10 m; the official microsite gives the equivalent nominal rating of 1 ATM. Neither rating should be read as advice to swim or dive with this exceptionally thin watch.
Bulgari limited the original edition to ten examples. Its Japanese launch release also describes a unique QR code on each watch linked to an NFT artwork. The release says the design involved eight patent applications; that is Bulgari’s launch-era claim, rather than a verified count of granted patents.
Is the Octo Finissimo Ultra still the thinnest mechanical watch?
No single model should be described as the present record-holder without a dated qualification. Bulgari’s original 1.80 mm Ultra held the announced record in 2022. The distinct 2024 Ultra COSC reduced the thickness to 1.70 mm. A 2026 Wallpaper* report says Konstantin Chaykin’s ThinKing production watch is 1.65 mm, thinner than the Bulgari models. That latest comparison is based on magazine reporting, so it is more accurate to attribute the claim and date it than to state an unqualified world record.
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How the original watch differs from the Ultra COSC
The Ultra COSC is not simply a certification applied to the 2022 model: it is a separate reference, 104081, introduced in 2024 with a thinner case and a 20-piece edition. Here are the key distinctions reported by Bulgari and the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry.
| Specification | Octo Finissimo Ultra, ref. 103611 (2022) | Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, ref. 104081 (2024) |
|---|---|---|
| Overall thickness | 1.80 mm (Bulgari Japan, 2022) | 1.70 mm (Bulgari product page; Federation report, 2024) |
| Case diameter | 40 mm (Bulgari Japan, 2022) | 40 mm (Federation report, 2024) |
| Movement | Hand-wound BVL180 (Bulgari Japan, 2022) | Hand-wound BVL180, COSC-certified (Bulgari product page; Federation report, 2024) |
| Power reserve | 50 hours (Bulgari Japan, 2022) | 50 hours (Bulgari product page; Federation report, 2024) |
| Frequency | 28,800 vibrations per hour (Bulgari Japan, 2022) | 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz (Bulgari product page) |
| Water resistance | 10 m in Bulgari Japan’s release; 1 ATM on Bulgari’s microsite | 0 m (Bulgari product page) |
| Edition size | 10 pieces (Bulgari Japan, 2022) | 20 pieces (Bulgari product page; Federation report, 2024) |
| Construction details | Caseback serves as the movement’s main plate; horizontal winding and time-setting wheels and a differential-gear mechanism (Bulgari Japan, 2022) | Titanium case and 1.50 mm titanium bracelet; tungsten-carbide main plate and openworked dial (Bulgari product page) |
| Availability information | Ten-piece limited edition; current availability not stated in the cited launch material | Bulgari invites customers to contact the brand or request an availability notification; current stock is not stated (Bulgari product page) |
There is a reported discrepancy about the COSC model’s reserve: WatchTime India’s 8 April 2024 article says 150 hours, while Bulgari and the Federation state 50 hours. The manufacturer and federation specifications support using 50 hours.
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How Bulgari engineered such a thin mechanical watch
The caseback doubles as the movement plate
Rather than placing a conventional movement inside a separate case, Bulgari used the caseback as the plate that carries the movement. The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry says the Ultra COSC’s manually wound BVL180 comprises 170 components. This integrated architecture saves vertical space, but makes the caseback’s ability to support the assembly especially important.
Tungsten carbide adds rigidity
For the Ultra COSC, Bulgari used a tungsten-carbide back and plate. The Federation describes this material as particularly dense and hard, helping provide rigidity in a 40 mm assembly only 1.70 mm thick. It also reports that engineers reworked components throughout the construction—from the gears to the sapphire crystal—to remove the tenth of a millimetre separating this model from the 2022 Ultra. Component selection used optical measuring systems with a stated precision of one-tenth of a micron, according to the Federation.
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The original’s unusual layout
Bulgari’s 2022 launch release describes horizontal winding and time-setting wheels and a differential-gear mechanism in the original watch. These are part of the solution to packaging mechanical functions within an unusually flat movement architecture, not evidence that the later COSC model has identical details in every respect.
What about the 1.85 mm Ultra Tourbillon?
The Ultra Tourbillon, reference 104344, is another distinct watch in Bulgari’s Ultra collection, not a thinner variant of the COSC model. Bulgari describes it as a 1.85 mm platinum model with a hand-wound BVF 900 flying-tourbillon calibre and a 42-hour reserve. Its tourbillon represents a different complication and design goal; its thickness exceeds both the 1.70 mm COSC and the 1.65 mm ThinKing thickness reported by Wallpaper* in 2026.
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Can you wear the Ultra COSC every day?
Bulgari lists the Ultra COSC’s water resistance as 0 m. That published specification offers no basis for treating it like a conventional water-resistant daily watch. Its 1.70 mm construction is also unusually thin, and the available specifications do not establish how it fares in ordinary wear or accidental impacts. Buyers should use Bulgari’s care guidance and discuss practical handling with the brand rather than assume the watch has been tested for everyday robustness.
The Ultra COSC is a 20-piece limited edition, and Bulgari’s product page directs interested customers to contact the brand or request an availability notification rather than stating that stock is ready to purchase. The Federation says its presentation box includes a mechanism to wind the watch and set the time, describing it as one that “acts like a watchmaker in your own home.”
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Sources and model references
- Bulgari: Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, reference 104081
- Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, 16 May 2024
- Bulgari: Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, reference 104344
- Bulgari Japan: original Octo Finissimo Ultra, reference 103611
- Bulgari: Octo Finissimo Ultra microsite
- WatchTime India: Ultra COSC coverage, 8 April 2024
- Wallpaper*: 2026 report on Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing
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