The Bulova “Stars and Stripes” is the nickname for the Chronograph C, a manually wound chronograph introduced in 1970—not a watch made for the 1976 U.S. bicentennial. Its bold red, white and blue styling is only part of what sets it apart: the original has a lugless, front-loading case and a Valjoux 7736 movement. Bulova later revived the look in a larger quartz-powered Archive Series model, which is a different watch.
Why is it called the Stars and Stripes?
Bulova introduced the generically named Chronograph C in 1970. “Stars and Stripes” became its popular name because of its patriotic red, white and blue design, according to the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC). The available historical review suggests production lasted about a year. The sources do not establish why Bulova chose the color scheme.
The bicentennial association is understandable but incorrect: the U.S. bicentennial was in 1976, six years after the Chronograph C’s introduction. The 2026 NAWCC bulletin gives the model’s 1970 context.
What makes the original Chronograph C unusual?
A lugless, front-loading case
Fratello’s 2016 review describes a stainless-steel case measuring about 43 mm across, with no conventional lugs. The mesh bracelet attaches beneath the case rather than to projecting lugs. Its notched bezel may look like a rotating bezel, but it does not rotate. Instead, removing the bezel gives access to the movement: the case is opened from the front.
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- 6 Hand, 1/20 Second Chronograph Measures up to 60 Minutes, Calendar, Small Second Hand
- Silver-Tone Stainless Steel
- Mineral Crystal
- 100M Water Resistant and 3 Year Limited Warranty
The crown is prominent, while the chronograph pushers are comparatively small. This construction is an important identification and service detail; a watchmaker unfamiliar with it can damage the case or crown.
A colorful dial and distinctive hands
The dial is navy, with white geometric detailing around the sub-registers and along the tachymeter and minute/hour track. Red accents bring the color scheme together, most memorably in the rocket- or firework-shaped main hands. Fratello reports tritium markers. The result is a dial with plenty to look at, but its layout remains legible because the contrasting registers and track divide up the information.
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- From Bulova's Men's Marine Star Collection, live and play in maritime watches that feature bold accents, iconic patterns and innovative materials inspired by the sea.
- Six-hand men’s chronograph - this exciting introduction in silver-tone stainless steel features stunning blue dial features silver- and red accents, a date display, and signature tuning fork at 12 o'clock.
- Three sub-dials fill out the dial: a 24-hour display, a running seconds display, and a 60-minute chronograph display.
- Featuring a mineral crystal, 100 meters water resistant with safety fold over with push button closure offering seamless style and making it the ideal Bulova timepiece for adventures on land or sea.
- 3 Year Limited Manufacturers Warranty
A manual-wind Valjoux chronograph
The original uses Bulova’s 14EC, based on the 17-jewel Valjoux 7736. The movement is a three-register, cam-lever chronograph with roots in the Venus 188 family. Fratello reports that Bulova’s version has gold plating and a signed bridge. The 2011 myBulova community archive also associates Bulova designation 14EC with the Valjoux 7736; it lists case reference 896, crown 896W, crystal 896AW and gasket G838. Treat those component references as a collector’s cross-check, not an official Bulova parts bulletin.
The original bracelet
Fratello reports that the original came on a 20 mm mesh bracelet with a signed clasp. The reviewer considers the bracelet and clasp important parts of a complete example, while noting that clasp adjustment may not suit every wrist. Because the case has no conventional lugs, the stated bracelet width alone does not establish compatibility with a generic replacement.
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- From Bulova's Men's Marine Star Collection, live and play in maritime watches that feature bold accents, iconic patterns and innovative materials inspired by the sea.
- 6 Hand, 1/20 Second Chronograph Measures up to 60 Minutes, Calendar, Small Second Hand
- Silver-Tone Stainless Steel
- Domed Mineral Crystal
- 200M Water Resistant and 3 Year Limited Warranty
Original Chronograph C vs. Archive Series reissue
Bulova revisited the design in its Archive Series. The NAWCC dates that release to 2016; InsideHook covered the model in 2017. The reissue preserves the visual idea, but not the original’s movement or exact proportions.
| Feature | Original Chronograph C | Archive Series reissue |
|---|---|---|
| Movement | Manual-wind mechanical Valjoux 7736-based Bulova 14EC; 17 jewels, as reported by Fratello (2016) and myBulova (2011). | Quartz movement reported at 262 kHz by InsideHook (2017). |
| Case diameter | About 43 mm, as measured and reported by Fratello (2016). | 46 mm, as reported by InsideHook (2017). |
| Dial and registers | Original Chronograph C design and sub-dial layout. | Updated sub-dials, as reported by InsideHook (2017). |
| Strap or bracelet | 20 mm mesh bracelet reported by Fratello (2016). | Stainless-steel mesh bracelet plus an additional blue leather strap, as reported by InsideHook (2017). |
| Water resistance | Not stated in the cited review. | 50 m, as reported by InsideHook (2017). |
A historical retailer listing identifies the Archive Series model as reference 96K101, but that listing does not establish current availability. Confirm the exact reference and specifications with a current listing before buying.
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- From Bulova's Men's Marine Star Collection, live and play in maritime watches that feature bold accents, iconic patterns and innovative materials inspired by the sea.
- Chronograph, Calendar Quartz Movement
- Two-Tone Gold Stainless Steel with Fold Over Clasp with Push Buttons
- Blue Dial, Domed Mineral Crystal
- 100M Water Resistant and 3 Year Limited Warranty
InsideHook’s Alex Lauer also reproduced Bulova’s historical advertising line: “It turns your wrist into an all-weather, 24-hour information center.” That is an advertising tagline, not an independent assessment of the watch’s performance.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.How to assess a vintage example
Condition and originality matter more than a familiar nickname. Before buying, inspect the watch or ask a specialist to confirm:
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- Crown: Check whether it is the original, signed crown rather than a replacement.
- Dial and hands: Look for signs of replacement, refinishing or restoration, and ask for clear photographs if you cannot inspect the watch in person.
- Bracelet: Confirm whether the mesh bracelet and signed clasp are present, and check their condition and fit.
- Service history: Ask for records and details of the work performed. A running watch is not, by itself, evidence of recent service.
- Case-opening experience: Use a watchmaker who understands this front-loading construction. Fratello’s review warns that unfamiliar watchmakers have damaged cases or crowns.
Do not try to open the case yourself. The review describes the movement as serviceable, but it does not establish a current service provider or a current market-value range.
Does the Stars and Stripes Chronograph take a battery?
The original 1970 Chronograph C is mechanical and manually wound, so it does not take a battery. The later Archive Series reissue is quartz-powered and is the version associated with a battery. Identify which model you have before seeking battery or case-opening advice; the original’s front-loading construction is not a pop-off caseback design.
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