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Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription vs. Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P-001

A specification-led comparison of two manually wound precious-metal dress watches: the double-ellipse yellow-gold Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription and Patek Philippe’s platinum Calatrava 6196P-001.
Estimate5–6 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team

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These are two slim, manually wound precious-metal dress watches with small seconds and roughly the same stated power reserve, but they take different routes to classic watchmaking. The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription pairs a double-ellipse yellow-gold case with an intricately guilloché solid-gold dial; Patek Philippe’s 6196P-001 puts a rose-gilt opaline dial in a platinum Calatrava case. Their published specifications make a useful comparison of proportions, materials, movement features and availability—not of real-world accuracy, comfort or resale value.

At a glance: two different takes on a thin dress watch

Specification Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P-001
Case material and shape Yellow gold 3N; double-ellipse design Platinum; polished case with satin-finished flanks
Case dimensions 38.6 × 35.5 mm; 7.7 mm thick 38 mm diameter; 9.33 mm thick
Water resistance 30 m 30 m
Dial Solid yellow gold with in-house Clou de Paris guilloché Rose-gilt opaline, with anthracite white-gold applied markers and dauphine-style hands
Movement DR002; manual winding; small seconds; approximately 65-hour reserve; 4 Hz; 143 components; 21 jewels 30-255 PS; manual winding; small seconds; minimum 65-hour reserve; stop-seconds; 4 Hz; 164 components; 27 jewels
Strap Calfskin; 20 mm lug width Shiny chocolate-brown alligator; platinum pin buckle; lug width not stated on the cited product page
Edition or listing status Souscription series of 20; official page says “SOLD OUT” Introduced in 2025; included in Patek Philippe’s current Calatrava collection finder
Price shown on official page Not stated on the cited official product page $52,013 displayed; the page does not establish the price region or tax treatment

Both manufacturers specify 30 m water resistance and a 4 Hz movement frequency. Their reserve figures are close, but phrased differently: Daniel Roth gives approximately 65 hours for the DR002, while Patek Philippe specifies a minimum of 65 hours for the 30-255 PS. These are manufacturer-published specifications, not independent test results.

Case shape and proportions

Daniel Roth: a double ellipse, not a conventional round case

The Extra Plat’s yellow-gold 3N case measures 38.6 mm from side to side and 35.5 mm across the other dimension, with a thickness of 7.7 mm. Its double-ellipse outline gives it a distinct identity beside the round Calatrava. Daniel Roth says the Extra Plat retains the Tourbillon’s length and width while reducing its thickness to 7.7 mm. The brand also describes curved lugs intended to improve the fit on the wrist; that is a design intention, not a comparative wear-test result.

Patek Philippe: round platinum with contrasting case finishes

The 6196P-001 has a 38 mm platinum case and is 9.33 mm thick. Patek specifies polished surfaces with satin-finished flanks. Its case is 1.63 mm thicker than the Daniel Roth’s according to the published measurements, while the Roth’s stated width spans two dimensions because of its non-round shape. The figures describe different case geometries, so a simple diameter comparison does not capture the full difference in outline.

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Dial materials and finishing

Daniel Roth’s solid-gold guilloché

The Extra Plat’s dial is made from solid yellow gold and decorated with Clou de Paris guilloché in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Daniel Roth says nearly two full days are devoted exclusively to the guilloché by one Maître Guillocheur, using restored historical machines. This is a specific account of the dial-making process from the manufacturer.

Patek Philippe’s opaline dial and platinum details

Patek specifies a rose-gilt opaline dial, anthracite white-gold applied markers in an obus style, and dauphine-style hands. A brilliant-cut diamond sits at six o’clock. The result is materially and visually distinct from the Roth’s all-gold dial and geometric guilloché, even though both watches use restrained layouts with small seconds.

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Movements, winding and setting

Daniel Roth DR002

The DR002 is a manually wound mechanical manufacture movement with small seconds. Daniel Roth says it was developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the supervision of Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. The brand lists approximately 65 hours of power reserve, a 4 Hz frequency, 143 components and 21 jewels.

Patek Philippe 30-255 PS

The manually wound 30-255 PS also has small seconds and runs at 4 Hz. Patek specifies a minimum 65-hour reserve, 164 parts and 27 jewels, along with the Patek Philippe Seal. Its stop-seconds function halts the seconds hand when setting the time, allowing the wearer to set the watch to the nearest second according to Patek.

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The published specifications do not establish that either watch is more accurate or reliable in use. A higher component or jewel count is not, by itself, evidence of superior performance.

Straps and everyday considerations

Daniel Roth lists a calfskin strap with a 20 mm lug width. That gives a useful sizing reference for someone considering a replacement strap, but the official page does not confirm compatibility between the watch’s buckle and any particular third-party strap.

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Patek lists a shiny chocolate-brown alligator strap with a platinum pin buckle, but the cited product page does not state its lug width. The published material therefore does not support a direct strap-width comparison or a confirmed replacement size for the Patek.

Both watches are rated to 30 m water resistance. That shared rating is a specification, not a claim that either is intended for swimming or other water activities; follow the manufacturer’s guidance for use and care.

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Availability and the price information available

Daniel Roth: a 20-piece series marked sold out

The brand identifies the Extra Plat Souscription as a series of 20 pieces, and its official product page currently marks it “SOLD OUT.” That describes the page’s status, not the availability of examples on the secondary market. Daniel Roth does not state a price on the cited page.

Patek Philippe: current collection listing and displayed price

Patek Philippe introduced the platinum 6196P-001 in its 2025 Watches and Wonders release, and the model appears in the brand’s current Calatrava collection finder. Its official product page displays $52,013. The page does not specify the price region or explain whether taxes are included, so that figure should be treated only as the amount shown there—not as a guaranteed transaction price or a directly comparable price against the Roth.

Which watch suits which preference?

  • Consider the Daniel Roth if the double-ellipse case, yellow-gold construction and hand-made Clou de Paris dial are the central draw. Its 7.7 mm thickness is the lower published figure of the pair, and the brand describes curved lugs as intended to improve wrist fit.
  • Consider the Patek Philippe if you prefer a round platinum case, rose-gilt opaline dial and a specified stop-seconds function. Its official listing also provides a displayed price, unlike the Roth page.
  • For a specification-led choice, both offer manual winding, small seconds, 4 Hz frequency, 30 m water resistance and a stated reserve around 65 hours. The cases, dial materials and setting features provide clearer distinctions than the reserve figures.

Daniel Roth’s product page attributes this thought to Mr. Daniel Roth: “THERE IS NOTHING NICER THAN AN EXTRA THIN WATCH ON THE WRIST”. It captures the Extra Plat’s emphasis on thinness, while the specifications above provide the concrete basis for comparing it with the Patek.

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Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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