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First Look: Vacheron Constantin’s Three Traditionnelle Openface 270th-Anniversary Watches

Vacheron Constantin’s 2025 Traditionnelle Openface trio shares a 41 mm platinum case but separates into complete-calendar, perpetual-calendar, and tourbillon models.
Estimate4–5 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team
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Vacheron Constantin’s 2025 270th-anniversary Openface trio shares a 41 mm platinum case and a layered, partially open-worked dial, but each watch is built around a different complication: a complete calendar, a perpetual calendar, or a tourbillon with retrograde date. The differences are substantial, from calendar indications and power reserve to launch price.

Three watches, three different complications

Vacheron Constantin introduced the trio in 2025, the year it marked 270 years since its Geneva beginnings in 1755. Its anniversary campaign frames the Maison’s pursuit with the maxim, “A Quest to ‘do better if possible, and that is always possible.’” (Vacheron Constantin anniversary campaign)

The shared Openface treatment does not make these one watch in three finishes. Their movement calibres and displays differ, as do their reserves and reported U.S. launch prices. All three are 41 mm platinum editions limited to 370 pieces, according to 2025 launch coverage; Vacheron Constantin’s catalogue separately confirms the numbered 370-piece edition for the perpetual calendar. (Hodinkee, April 1, 2025; Vacheron Constantin catalogue)

Model Reference and calibre Complication and display Case and reserve Reported U.S. launch price
Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface 4020T/000P-H038
2460 QCL/270
Day and month on sapphire disks; peripheral retrograde date; precision moon phase Platinum, 41 mm; 40 hours $69,500
Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface 4030T/000P-H054
2460 QP R31/270 (also written 2460 QPR31/270 in Hodinkee’s report)
Perpetual calendar with day, month, and leap-year indications; moon phase; retrograde date Platinum, 41 mm; 40 hours $107,000
Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface 6010T/000P-H055
2162 R31/270
Tourbillon at 6 o’clock, serving as small seconds; retrograde date Platinum, 41 mm; 72 hours Price on request at launch

Specifications and prices in this comparison are from Vacheron Constantin catalogue and product-page information where noted, and Hodinkee’s 2025 launch report for the trio. The dollar figures are reported U.S. launch prices, not current quotes. (Hodinkee launch report; Vacheron Constantin 2025–26 catalogue; Vacheron Constantin 4020T product page)

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#1 Best Overall
212ZTD 22mm Black Leather Watch Strap Compatible with Vacheron Constantin Patrimony, Traditionnelle
  • COMPATIBLE REPLACEMENT STRAP – Designed for compatible use with Vacheron Constantin Patrimony, Traditionnelle. Please verify your watch model and 22mm before purchase.
  • 22MM FIT – Crafted for a secure connection and stable daily wear when matched to the correct watch model.
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  • STRAP ONLY – Buckle, clasp, and mounting hardware are not included unless otherwise stated. Please reuse your existing hardware if needed.

How the Openface displays differ

Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface

The 4020T/000P-H038 is the most direct expression of the calendar idea. Sapphire disks show the day and month, a curved-tip hand traces the date around the dial’s perimeter, and a precision moon-phase display sits above 6 o’clock. Vacheron Constantin’s product-page result lists a 40-hour reserve and 30 m water resistance. (Vacheron Constantin product page)

Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface

The 4030T/000P-H054 adds leap-year information to the day, month, moon-phase, and retrograde-date displays. Hodinkee describes sapphire discs for the day, month, and leap year. Its calibre is listed as 2460 QP R31/270 in Vacheron Constantin’s catalogue; Hodinkee renders it 2460 QPR31/270. (Hodinkee launch report; Vacheron Constantin catalogue)

Rank #2
212ZTD 22mm Brown Leather Watch Strap Compatible with Vacheron Constantin Patrimony, Traditionnelle
  • COMPATIBLE REPLACEMENT STRAP – Designed for compatible use with Vacheron Constantin Patrimony, Traditionnelle. Please verify your watch model and 22mm before purchase.
  • 22MM FIT – Crafted for a secure connection and stable daily wear when matched to the correct watch model.
  • BROWN LEATHER – Designed to provide a refined look with comfortable wear for everyday or dress use.
  • REPLACEMENT SOLUTION – Ideal for refreshing a worn strap while maintaining a clean and updated look on your watch.
  • STRAP ONLY – Buckle, clasp, and mounting hardware are not included unless otherwise stated. Please reuse your existing hardware if needed.

Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface

The 6010T/000P-H055 trades the calendar display for a tourbillon at 6 o’clock, which also acts as the small-seconds display. A retrograde date provides the other prominent indication. Its 2162 R31/270 calibre has a reported 72-hour reserve, longer than the two calendar models’ 40 hours. (Hodinkee launch report)

A shared design language, not a fully skeletonized dial

Hodinkee’s launch coverage describes open-worked areas that expose discs, levers, and gears while leaving solid dial sections in place. The result is a layered display rather than a fully skeletonized movement presented as the dial. The anniversary details reported across the trio include a hand-guilloché Maltese-cross motif, silver-toned dial, exhibition caseback, Hallmark of Geneva, and “côte unique” finishing on the movement bridges. The cross motif shifts position from model to model to fit the available negative space. (Hodinkee launch report)

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Rank #3
Authentic Crocodile Leather Watch Strap, Compatible with Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Collection 81590/000R-9847 Watch Watchbands (deep coffee)
  • Two-piece tan genuine leather strap with natural stitching
  • Silver-tone buckle & hardware
  • Designed to fit watches with 20mm lug width
  • Fits wrist circumferences of 6 to 8 inches

What separates them in practical terms

Because diameter and material are the same across all three, the main choice is the complication and how its information is arranged. The complete calendar concentrates on conventional day, month, date, and moon-phase readings. The perpetual calendar adds leap-year information, making its display more involved. The tourbillon model has no calendar beyond the retrograde date, but its tourbillon takes the visual and mechanical focus and it offers the longest stated reserve.

  • For the most straightforward calendar layout: the Complete Calendar Openface groups day and month on sapphire disks and puts the date around the dial edge.
  • For the fullest calendar indication: the Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface includes the leap-year cycle as well as the date and moon phase.
  • For a tourbillon-led display: the Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface makes the rotating mechanism at 6 o’clock the small-seconds display.
  • For the longest stated reserve: the tourbillon’s 72 hours exceed the calendar models’ 40 hours.

Launch coverage reports thicknesses of 11.05 mm for the complete calendar, 10.94 mm for the perpetual calendar, and 11.07 mm for the tourbillon. It also reports 30 m water resistance for all three, dark-blue alligator straps, and platinum folding buckles. These details come from the 2025 launch report. (Hodinkee launch report)

Rank #4
Pre-Loved Vacheron Constantin 1972 Cambree 25015/000G-9233 Women's Watch in 18k White Gold
  • Metal Type: White Gold
  • Imported
  • Excellent condition - Minimal signs of wear consistent with pre-owned use. This item is pre-owned and may show light signs of wear. Please refer to the condition and photos. All of our products are authenticated and certified by our team of luxury experts.
  • Wrist Size: 6.50"
  • Case Size: 21mm
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Support on Ko-Fi

Launch prices and availability

Hodinkee reported U.S. launch prices of $69,500 for the Complete Calendar Openface and $107,000 for the Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface; the Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface was listed as price on request. These are 2025 launch figures and should not be treated as current retail quotes. (Hodinkee launch report)

Hodinkee said the watches were available through Vacheron Constantin boutiques at launch. That report does not establish current stock, regional pricing, waitlists, or resale inventory. For current availability and local pricing, contact an authorized Vacheron Constantin boutique or verify an authenticated seller. (Hodinkee launch report)

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Quick Recap

Bestseller No. 3
Authentic Crocodile Leather Watch Strap, Compatible with Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Collection 81590/000R-9847 Watch Watchbands (deep coffee)
Authentic Crocodile Leather Watch Strap, Compatible with Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Collection 81590/000R-9847 Watch Watchbands (deep coffee)
Two-piece tan genuine leather strap with natural stitching; Silver-tone buckle & hardware; Designed to fit watches with 20mm lug width
$99.00
Bestseller No. 4
Pre-Loved Vacheron Constantin 1972 Cambree 25015/000G-9233 Women's Watch in 18k White Gold
Pre-Loved Vacheron Constantin 1972 Cambree 25015/000G-9233 Women's Watch in 18k White Gold
Metal Type: White Gold; Imported; Wrist Size: 6.50"; Case Size: 21mm
$7,250.00
Bestseller No. 5
CYKLDS Silicone Rubber Watch Band Strap Compatible with Vacheron Constantin Overseas - 25mm * 8mm Vacheron Constantin Watch Band
CYKLDS Silicone Rubber Watch Band Strap Compatible with Vacheron Constantin Overseas - 25mm * 8mm Vacheron Constantin Watch Band
High quality material, waterproof, soft and durable rubber resin.; Packing include: 1x 25*8mm Silicone watch strap, 1 x replacement remove tool.
$33.99
Best Value
CYKLDS Silicone Rubber Watch Band Strap Compatible with Vacheron Constantin Overseas - 25mm * 8mm Vacheron Constantin Watch Band
  • High quality material, waterproof, soft and durable rubber resin.
  • Packing include: 1x 25*8mm Silicone watch strap, 1 x replacement remove tool.
  • CYKLDS watch band Compatible with Vacheron Constantin Overseas Band Width: 25mm*8mm.
  • Please measure the width of the connecting part where the band attached to the watch before placing order.
  • Watch strap is vintage style, versatile and suitable for any occasion. Wearing this strap can increase your personal charm.

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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