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Fratello’s Top 5 Surprising Watches of the First Half of 2025

Fratello’s five standout first-half 2025 watches span sunflower guilloché, terracotta Quartz TPT, a rotating time display, a full-lume dial and a playful animated horse.
Estimate4–5 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team
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Fratello’s Jorg Weppelink named five watches released in the first half of 2025 that stood out for unusual design or mechanics: a sunflower guilloché collaboration, a terracotta Richard Mille, a rotating window display from Louis Vuitton, a full-lume Laventure and an animated Hermès horse. The picks are one writer’s editorial choices, not a measured ranking. The specifications, production figures and historical prices below are as reported in Fratello’s August 1, 2025 roundup; they have not been independently verified here.

What made these five watches surprising?

Each pick takes a different route away from familiar watch design: intricate dial craft, an unexpected case material and color, a nontraditional time display, a luminous marine-chronometer look, or a dial with a mechanical joke built into it. Fratello did not present a common scoring system, so the list is best read as a selection of distinctive releases rather than a definitive ranking.

Fratello’s five picks

1. Sartory Billard by Studio Underd0g SB05 Sunfl0wer

Released just before Watches and Wonders, the SB05 Sunfl0wer turns its floral theme into a detailed dial. Fratello describes grand-grain guilloché with a brown center and gold outer section, plus 24 petals. Hour and minute markings sit on a sapphire disk. A green Epsom calfskin strap by The Strap Tailor completes the look.

Fratello reports a 38 mm by 8.5 mm case and a hand-wound SMB01 caliber based on the La Joux-Perret 7380. The movement has 21 jewels, runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour and is reported to offer a 90-hour power reserve. The collaboration was limited to 10 pieces; Fratello said all ten had sold out by the article’s August 1, 2025 publication date. That is not a current availability check.

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#1 Best Overall
Invicta Men's Pro Diver Collection Coin-Edge Automatic Watch
  • Stainless steel case 40mm diameter x 14.1mm thick; Exhibition case back; Black dial; Luminous hands.Band Length: 205mm
  • NH35A Japanese Automatic movement, 24 jewel; Assembled in Malaysia; Watch weight 155 grams
  • Includes gift box, instructions and 3 year limited manufacturer warranty; Invicta Customer Service can be reached at 1-800-327-7682 for questions (re: Additional links, band replacement, band adjustment, warranty questions, etc.)

2. Richard Mille RM 16-02 Automatic Extraflat Terracotta Quartz TPT

The RM 16-02 brings back the rectangular silhouette of the RM 16, first introduced in 2007, in a striking terracotta tone. Fratello describes a case made with layered silica threads in a colored matrix, a white Quartz TPT case middle and a 36 mm by 45.64 mm by 9.5 mm profile.

Its CRMA9 movement is described with a rectangular titanium baseplate, 67 chamfered openings and a platinum winding rotor. Fratello reports a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and a 50-hour power reserve. The article listed a price of €225,000 in August 2025; this is a historical figure, not a current offer.

Rank #2
Sale
Casio Men's MDV106-1AV 200M Black Dive Watch (MDV106-1A)
  • Stainless Steel case with Black Resin Band
  • Black Dial with date window at 3 O'clock
  • Luminous markers and hour hands; sweep second hand
  • Anti-reverse bezel
  • Water-resistant to 200 M (660 feet)

3. Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence Pink Gold

The Tambour Convergence uses a “montre à guichet,” or window-watch, display: rotating discs show the hours and minutes through apertures. Fratello notes that the hour disc’s orientation may take a moment to get used to. Adjacent numerals help indicate the preceding and upcoming hour, making the transition easier to read.

The article reports a 37 mm by 8 mm pink-gold case and an automatic LFT MA01.01 movement running at 28,800 vibrations per hour, with a 45-hour power reserve.

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Rank #3
FORSINING Watches for Man, Square Retro Mechanical Watch Self-Wind Carved, Skeleton Automatic Watches Vintage Leather Strap Wristwatch
  • [Luxurious Mechanical Watch] High quality hollow mechanical watch appearance retro gorgeous, exquisite carving and design of the golden appearance of the European nobility more highlight your noble identity extraordinary taste, to bring you a pleasant luxury experience
  • [Mechanical Movement] This watch has manual self-winding. Please consider that mechanical watches that require manual winding can only keep time for a short time after winding. To prevent running or inaccurate time, it is advised that you verify the time periodically and wind up the chain 15–20 times.
  • [Waterproof] Water resistant to 50m (165ft) -suitable for short periods of recreational swimming and showering, but not diving or snorkeling
  • [Ideal as a Gift] This beautiful retro-style watch can be worn on any occasion or given as a gift to your father, brother, partner, or boyfriend. At weddings and any holiday gatherings, it can be a really appreciated and elegant gift.
  • [Professional After-Sale Service] Please contact us if you need any additional details about our watches. We will be happy to answer and help you anytime.

4. Laventure Marine Type 3

Drawing on marine chronometers, the Marine Type 3 pairs a full-lume dial with a compact Grade 23 titanium case. Fratello gives its dimensions as 38 mm in diameter and 8.9 mm thick, topped by a domed Plexiglas crystal.

Inside, the article describes customized caliber 4, based on the Sellita SW300-1, with 25 jewels and a 56-hour power reserve. A soft-iron movement cage and metal caseback are also reported. These details are Fratello’s specifications, not results of independent testing.

Rank #4
Invicta Pro Diver Automatic Champagne Dial Men's Watch 49317
  • Invicta Pro Diver Automatic Champagne Dial Men's Watch 49317

5. Hermès Arceau Rocabar de Rire

The Arceau Rocabar de Rire takes its horse motif from Dimitri Rybaltchenko’s Rocabar de Rire scarf. Pressing a pusher at 9 o’clock makes the horse stick out its tongue—a playful animation rather than a conventional complication.

Fratello reports 41 mm white-gold or rose-gold cases, paired with blue or green dials and colorful stripes. Hermès’s H1837 automatic movement is listed at 28,800 vibrations per hour with a 50-hour power reserve. Production was reported at 12 pieces. The August 2025 article gave prices of €163,000 for white gold and €168,000 for rose gold; those are publication-time figures, not verified current prices.

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Best Value
Sale
Fossil Men's Watch, Townsman Automatic Stainless Steel and Leather Two-Hand Skeleton Watch for Men, Color: Silver, Brown
  • VERSATILE STYLE: From desk to dinner, daily commute to jet-set journey, think of this Fossil watch for men as his best-dressed essential; with an exposed automatic movement, it's a sleek, pulled-together style that never takes itself too seriously
  • CASE & MOVEMENT: An automatic watch with a 44mm case, 22mm band width, hardened mineral crystal lens resists scratches, accurate Automatic movement with accurate analog watch display, imported
  • DIAL: One of many among Fossil watches for men, this quartz watch features a round silver stainless steel case, with a blue satin and skeleton dial and gold accents
  • WRIST WATCH BAND: Brown, genuine leather band with a secure adjustable buckle closure for a customized fit of this wristwatch; interchangeable with all 22mm Fossil watch straps
  • WATER RESISTANT MEN'S WATCHES: Up to 50m (165ft); wearable for short periods of recreational swimming and showering, but not diving or snorkeling; 5 ATM
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Support on Ko-Fi

How the picks compare

Watch Distinctive feature Case details reported by Fratello Movement and power reserve reported by Fratello Scarcity or historical price in the article
Sartory Billard by Studio Underd0g SB05 Sunfl0wer Sunflower-inspired guilloché dial with 24 petals and sapphire markings disk 38 mm × 8.5 mm; case material not stated Manual SMB01, based on La Joux-Perret 7380; 21 jewels; 21,600 vph; 90 hours 10 pieces; Fratello reported all sold out by August 1, 2025
Richard Mille RM 16-02 Automatic Extraflat Terracotta Quartz TPT Rectangular silhouette in terracotta Quartz TPT 36 mm × 45.64 mm × 9.5 mm; layered silica threads in colored matrix and white Quartz TPT middle CRMA9; 28,800 vph; 50 hours €225,000, as reported in August 2025
Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence Pink Gold Rotating discs display the time through apertures 37 mm × 8 mm; pink gold Automatic LFT MA01.01; 28,800 vph; 45 hours Not stated by Fratello
Laventure Marine Type 3 Full-lume dial inspired by marine chronometers 38 mm diameter × 8.9 mm thick; Grade 23 titanium; domed Plexiglas crystal Customized caliber 4 based on Sellita SW300-1; 25 jewels; 56 hours Not stated by Fratello
Hermès Arceau Rocabar de Rire Horse motif animated by a pusher at 9 o’clock 41 mm; white gold or rose gold Automatic H1837; 28,800 vph; 50 hours 12 pieces; €163,000 in white gold and €168,000 in rose gold, as reported in August 2025

The prices are not a like-for-like comparison: Fratello gave figures for only two models, and those figures date to its August 2025 article. The roundup does not establish current prices, current stock or a common basis for evaluating value.

Quick Recap

Bestseller No. 1
Invicta Men's Pro Diver Collection Coin-Edge Automatic Watch
Invicta Men's Pro Diver Collection Coin-Edge Automatic Watch
NH35A Japanese Automatic movement, 24 jewel; Assembled in Malaysia; Watch weight 155 grams
$91.25
SaleBestseller No. 2
Casio Men's MDV106-1AV 200M Black Dive Watch (MDV106-1A)
Casio Men's MDV106-1AV 200M Black Dive Watch (MDV106-1A)
Stainless Steel case with Black Resin Band; Black Dial with date window at 3 O'clock; Luminous markers and hour hands; sweep second hand
$68.99
Bestseller No. 4
Invicta Pro Diver Automatic Champagne Dial Men's Watch 49317
Invicta Pro Diver Automatic Champagne Dial Men's Watch 49317
Invicta Pro Diver Automatic Champagne Dial Men's Watch 49317
$87.99

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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