The 1959 Rolex Submariner reference 5508 is an early, small-crown Submariner with an unguarded case and a 100-metre depth rating. In the Fratello hands-on feature, the appeal is not just that distinctive case: the gilt-dial look and the way materials have aged give this particular watch much of its character. Those details belong to the individual example, not automatically to every 5508.
What makes the 5508 distinctive?
The 5508 sits in the early Submariner family, before crown guards became part of the design. Its compact crown is exposed rather than protected by shoulders on either side of the case. Fratello describes the 1959 watch in its feature as having this small crown, an unguarded case and a 100-metre rating (Fratello’s hands-on feature).
That combination is the most useful starting point for identifying the reference: a small crown, no crown guards and a stated 100-metre depth rating. Sotheby’s likewise characterizes the 5508 as a small-crown, unguarded Submariner rated to 100 metres, and gives its production span as 1958–1962 (Sotheby’s reference 5508 description). Production boundaries vary in specialist descriptions, so that span should be understood as Sotheby’s account rather than an uncontested cutoff.
Where it fits in Submariner history
Rolex dates the Submariner’s launch to 1953 and says the first model was waterproof to 100 metres (330 feet). The company’s history traces later technical and design changes, including the addition of crown guards and an increase in the stated depth rating to 200 metres (Rolex’s Submariner history).
#1 Best Overall
- High-Quality Replacement Bezel Insert: This listing features a black replacement bezel insert with silver lettering designed for vintage Rolex Submariner models, produced to a high standard and offers a glossy, reflective surface
- Precise Dimensions: Measures 36.50mm X 30.40mm to ensure proper fit for your vintage Submariner watch
- Durable Material Construction: Crafted from high-quality aluminum for long-lasting performance and authentic appearance
- Complete Package Contents: Includes 1 bezel insert ready for installation on your vintage Rolex Submariner watch
- Premium Quality Watch Parts: We specialize in selling the best quality replacement watch parts and accessories, with over 10 years of online experience in the watch industry
The 5508 represents an early branch of that evolution: it retains the exposed small crown and unguarded case while carrying the original 100-metre rating. Comparing it with another early Submariner requires checking that specific reference’s details. A shared era or similar silhouette does not establish an identical depth rating, dial layout or configuration.
What the hands-on watch shows—and what it does not
The Fratello article is about a specific 1959 watch. Its observations about the watch’s appearance should be kept separate from reference-wide specifications. The aged materials and gilt-dial appearance contribute to this example’s visual identity; they do not establish that every 5508 has the same color, patina, wear or dial condition.
Rank #2
- Green dial, Gold tone stainless steel band
- 43mm stainless steel case;Screw down crown;Flame Fusion crystal
- 100 meter water resistant
A Christie’s catalogue documents a different 1959 reference 5508 with caliber 1530, a black gloss dial, luminous markers and hands, gilt printing and a “100m=330ft” dial marking (Christie’s catalogue record). That listing is useful evidence that such a configuration existed, but it is not proof of the movement, dial, lume, originality or service history of the watch in Fratello’s feature.
For a vintage example, visual age and originality are separate questions. A warm tone or aged luminous material may be part of the watch’s appeal, but appearance alone does not confirm that a component is original to the watch. Establishing originality and provenance requires evidence specific to the individual example.
Free tools Windows power users keep installed
One-click scans. No signup required.
Rank #3
- Stainless steel case 43mm diameter x 12mm thick; Black dial; Luminous hands and hour markers
- Japanese quartz movement, PC32 Caliber; Assembled in Japan; SR626SW battery included; Watch weight: 170 grams
- Stainless steel band, 185mm L x 22mm W; Band is adjustable by adding/removing links; Fold over safety clasp
- Flame Fusion crystal; Screw down crown; Uni-directional stainless steel bezel with black top bezel ring; 100 meter water resistant: Suitable for recreational surfing, swimming, snorkeling, sailing and water sports. Not suitable for diving
How to compare a 5508 with other early Submariners
- Crown and case: Check whether the crown is small and exposed, with no crown guards. Later guarded designs differ visibly in this area.
- Depth rating: Treat 100 metres as the 5508’s documented model description, and verify the rating for any other reference rather than assuming early Submariners shared it.
- Dial and hands: Compare printing, depth text, luminous material and hand configuration against documentation for that particular watch. Auction records describe their listed lots, not every example of a reference.
- Condition and history: Look for watch-specific evidence about replacements, servicing and provenance. Patina or wear by itself cannot settle those questions.
Does a vintage 5508 remain safe to dive with?
No historical depth rating is a current water-resistance test. The 100-metre figure describes the model as documented by historical and specialist sources; it does not establish that a decades-old example can still withstand water pressure. No up-to-date professional test result is established for the 1959 watch discussed by Fratello. Do not use it for diving without a current assessment by a qualified watch professional.
Quick Recap
Best Value
- VERIFY YOUR WATCH MODEL & MEASURE THE CORRECT SIZE USING A RULER – Watch Parts Are Model and Size Specific. Please Verify Compatibility Before Purchasing.
- Precision Fit: Designed for Rolex Submariner models including 16610, 16608, 16803, 16808, 16013, and 16800. Replaces 24-7030 and fits 7mm crowns. Verify compatibility before purchasing for the perfect fit.
- High-Quality Material: Made from premium 316L stainless steel from Switzerland, ensuring durability and high performance. Ideal for maintaining the integrity of your Rolex Submariner.
- Leak-Proof Design: Equipped with 4 o-ring seals to prevent water leakage, preserving the watch's value and helping you avoid costly repairs.
- Complete Replacement: Comes with 1 case tube and 4 gaskets for a full replacement. Essential for maintaining your watch's water resistance and functionality.
Rank #4
- VERIFY YOUR WATCH MODEL & MEASURE THE CORRECT SIZE USING A RULER Watch Parts Are Model and Size Specific. Please Verify Compatibility Before Purchasing.
- Check Compatibility: This vintage luminous pearl fits specific Rolex Submariner models, including 5508, 5512, 5513, 5517. The insert hole size is 1.2mm, so please measure your existing pearl to ensure a proper fit before purchasing.
- Premium Aftermarket Quality: Upgrade your watch with this high-quality, aftermarket luminous pearl in an off-white color. It features silver lume in green for enhanced visibility, making it a great addition to your vintage timepiece.
- Accurate Measurements: The metal ring of this pearl has an outside diameter of 2.30mm, ensuring a snug fit in compatible bezels. Accurate measurements are essential for maintaining the aesthetic and functionality of your watch.
- Compatibility Note: This pearl is not suitable for newer Submariner models with ceramic inserts or Deepsea watches. Please verify your watch model before purchasing to avoid returns and ensure compatibility.
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
