Bulgari’s 2024 Aeterna watch presentation centered on two Serpenti Misteriosi creations: Chimera, a white-gold serpent with serpent and lion heads, and Dragone, a dragon-inflected serpent watch with a Tubogas bracelet. Both use Bulgari’s hand-wound Piccolissimo mechanical micro-movement. The watches were part of Aeterna, the broader collection Bulgari introduced for its 140th anniversary—not the whole collection themselves.
What are the Bulgari Aeterna watches?
Bulgari announced Aeterna on 29 May 2024 to mark the Maison’s 140th anniversary. The company described the wider collection as comprising more than 500 creations across high jewelry, high-end watches, bags, and fragrance. Within its watch announcement, Bulgari Japan highlighted two models: Serpenti Misteriosi Chimera, reference 104078, and Serpenti Misteriosi Dragone, reference 104044. Bulgari Japan’s 2024 watch announcement
The presentation framed each watch as jewelry as much as horology: a sculptural Serpenti form conceals a tiny mechanical movement. Bulgari unveiled the broader Aeterna collection at Rome’s Baths of Diocletian in a private event organized with Italy’s Ministry of Culture and Fondazione Bulgari. Bulgari Japan’s Aeterna announcement
How do Chimera and Dragone differ?
| Model | Design and historical reference | Materials and setting | Wear and reference |
|---|---|---|---|
| Serpenti Misteriosi Chimera | Bulgari describes a flexible serpent ending in serpent and lion heads. The lion head draws inspiration from an archival Bulgari piece from the 1950s, according to the company. | White gold set with diamonds and emeralds; the product listing also specifies sapphire. | Reference 104078. Bulgari’s release describes a flexible serpent form; it does not specify a wrap count in the cited product details. |
| Serpenti Misteriosi Dragone | A serpent-and-dragon interpretation that Bulgari says revisits a historic watch associated with Elizabeth Taylor’s 1962 Cleopatra filming at Rome’s Cinecittà studios. | White and yellow gold, baguette, marquise, and round brilliant diamonds, with emerald eyes. | Reference 104044; triple-wrap Tubogas bracelet. Bulgari says the featured watch can be worn on either wrist and its removable movement can be turned 180 degrees to reverse dial orientation. |
These design histories and material descriptions are Bulgari’s own account in its 2024 release, rather than independent assessments. The same release says the featured Dragone takes more than 960 hours to complete. Bulgari Japan’s 2024 watch announcement
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What movement and specifications do both watches share?
Bulgari’s product entries specify the same hand-wound Piccolissimo mechanical micro-movement in both models. The listed movement thickness is 2.50 mm, with an approximately 30-hour power reserve and a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour. These are launch specifications published by Bulgari; the release does not provide independent performance testing.
- Winding: hand-wound
- Movement: Piccolissimo mechanical micro-movement
- Movement thickness: 2.50 mm
- Power reserve: approximately 30 hours
- Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour
In Chimera, Bulgari says the movement is concealed in the snake’s head. For Dragone, the company highlights the removable movement and its reversible dial orientation, which allows the watch to be worn on either wrist. Bulgari Japan’s 2024 watch announcement
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- Dial design: Suit for 6.1-6.9 in wrist size. The shape of the dial is different from traditional circular or square dials, adopting a teardrop shaped design similar to a snake head. Celebrate the Year of the Snake with this Lunar New Year capsule, symbolizing wisdom and transformation. The streamlined contour makes the watch look more dynamic and artistic. The surface of the dial is made of mother of pearl material, which has a natural luster and delicate texture.
- Scale and pointer: The dial uses blue Roman numeral scales, which are particularly eye-catching on the mother of pearl dial. The pointer also adopts a blue design, decorated with a circle of shiny diamonds around the edge of the dial, adding a sense of luxury to the watch. The watch strap is made of stainless steel and features an exquisite mesh design, which not only enhances the comfort of the watch but also makes the entire watch more modern and fashionable.
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What did Bulgari present beyond the watches?
The scale figures in Bulgari’s announcements describe different things. Its launch announcement refers to more than 500 creations in the wider Aeterna collection. In a separate report published after a Kyoto presentation on 4 July 2024, Bulgari Japan said approximately 400 creations—including high jewelry and high-end watches—were presented at the Kyoto International Conference Center. They are not two counts of the same event or collection subset. Bulgari Japan’s Kyoto presentation report
Jean-Christophe Babin, Bulgari Group CEO, praised the collection in the Japanese launch release, calling it—translated into English—perhaps the finest high-end collection in the 21st century. That is the company executive’s promotional opinion, not an independently established ranking. The release identifies Lucia Silvestri as Jewelry Creative Director. Bulgari Japan’s Aeterna announcement
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How much do the Bulgari Aeterna watches cost?
Bulgari Japan’s 2024 launch product table marked the prices of both Chimera and Dragone as undecided. That release therefore does not establish a confirmed launch price, a current price, or present availability. For a current quote or stock status, check directly with Bulgari or an authorized retailer.
Are these the same watches as the current Serpenti Aeterna models?
No. Bulgari’s current official horology page lists products under the name Serpenti Aeterna, including references 104341, 104352, 104205, 104280, and 104312. Those listings are distinct from the two Serpenti Misteriosi references in the 2024 Aeterna announcement; the shared Aeterna name does not make the later-listed references the same watches. Bulgari’s current Serpenti Aeterna horology page
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