Issey Miyake’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, “Figure of Ma,” turned the space between clothing and body into a runway idea: rounded coats, pleats and sculptural shapes shifted as models walked. The presentation took place during Paris Fashion Week on October 2, 2026, according to Selecta Bisso’s report. What follows is a reading of the runway looks described by fashion coverage, not a retail catalogue.
What “Figure of Ma” means
Runway reports explain “Ma” as meaningful space between elements, applying the idea to the air and space between fabric and the body. In this collection, that concept is most legible in garments whose volume stands away from the wearer and changes shape in motion. The description comes from coverage of the show; no direct interview with head designer and art director Satoshi Kondo or official show notes are cited in those reports. Hypebeast’s runway report and Selecta Bisso’s account both connect the collection to this notion of space.
How the presentation introduced the idea
Hypebeast reports that the show was staged in an all-black setting at the Judo Institute. It opened in silence with a dancer wearing beige pleats; a group then brought in a large, cloud-like sheet of fabric before the runway looks began. The sequence established movement and suspended fabric as part of the presentation, rather than presenting the clothes as static objects.
Runway details: volume, surfaces and movement
The reports describe a mix of rounded silhouettes, pleated forms and textured surfaces. These are selected examples from coverage, not a complete inventory of the collection.
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| Design element | What runway coverage describes | What it contributes visually |
|---|---|---|
| Outerwear | Ballooning purple and black trench coats, alongside patterned pleated outerwear. | Rounded volume and pleated patterning make the coats read as shapes with space around them. |
| Tops and skirts | Sleeveless tops inspired by plaster gauze and a pleated skirt with puffed shoulders. | Sculptural construction contrasts with the softer movement of fabric. |
| Mesh and pleats | Textured mesh-knit capris, pleated headwear and other pleated pieces. | Different textures and folds add surface variation to the silhouettes. |
| Accessories and footwear | Leather bags and footwear made in collaboration with Camper. | The accessories broaden the styling beyond clothing; coverage does not identify a footwear model or release details. |
Hypebeast describes sleeves and hems billowing and settling as the models moved. That motion supplies the “breath of fresh air” impression: a visual metaphor for the way fabric expands and falls, not a technical claim about breathability or a guarantee of comfort for every wearer.
What is known about the Camper collaboration—and what is not
The reports identify footwear made in collaboration with Camper, but do not name a model or provide a launch date, price, retail partner or market availability. The same coverage does not establish retail dates, prices, stockists or which runway looks will be produced for sale. The show should therefore be read as a collection presentation, not evidence that its individual pieces can currently be bought.
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Why the collection stands out
“Figure of Ma” makes its concept visible through the relationship between garment and body. The rounded coats create space; pleats and textured surfaces register movement; and the runway staging begins with fabric and motion before the clothes appear. Rather than relying on a technical performance claim, the show’s idea comes through as an effect of silhouette, material appearance and movement as documented by the runway reports.
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