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In a 2019 interview, then-Panerai CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué described the brand’s central task as protecting its recognizable identity while making that identity better known. His priorities included developing Panerai’s existing watch lines, improving its retail and service capabilities, and engaging the collectors he credited with helping build the brand. His five-year outlook was an ambition stated at the time—not evidence of Panerai’s position today.
What did Pontroué see as Panerai’s biggest opportunity and challenge?
Pontroué saw opportunity and challenge as two sides of the same goal: keep Panerai iconic while helping more people recognize what makes its watches distinct. In the 7 May 2019 Monochrome Watches interview, he pointed to the cases, dials and straps as parts of the brand’s design identity.
That framing was not a call to abandon Panerai’s established look. It was about preserving a recognizable product identity and communicating it more clearly, while keeping the maison relevant. The interview presents Pontroué’s view, not an independent assessment of the brand or its products.
Why did he value Paneristi?
Pontroué described Paneristi—the community of Panerai enthusiasts and collectors—as geographically broad, naming the United States, Germany, China and Hong Kong. He said he tried to meet collectors while travelling, at boutique openings and at events such as the community’s P-Day gathering.
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He credited Paneristi with helping Panerai achieve success quickly. Their close knowledge of reference numbers, launch dates, production quantities and prices also shaped how he approached the brand. As he put it, “I love their opinion because they know the brand even slightly better than me.” That is Pontroué’s assessment in the 2019 interview, rather than a claim that every collector or customer shares the same view.
What strategy did he describe for Panerai?
Pontroué’s stated approach was to build within Panerai’s four existing product lines rather than add new ones. He also identified practical work behind the watches: preparing teams to handle retail, digital, after-sales service and distribution challenges.
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Develop existing lines, not more product families
He said Panerai intended to develop product creativity within the four lines it already had. In the same interview, he said the company did not intend to grow production and planned to reduce the number of limited editions. He also aimed to increase technical content and use more precious materials in some lines.
These were plans he described in 2019. The interview does not establish whether they were carried out in full or whether they remain current Panerai policy.
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Strengthen the business around the watches
Training teams to respond to changes in retail, digital channels, after-sales service and distribution was another part of the strategy he outlined. In a separate WatchPro interview published on 12 May 2022, Pontroué said Panerai had 170 stores at that time and that two thirds of the boutiques opened in the preceding five years had been opened with partners. Those figures describe the company’s operations as he reported them in 2022; they are not current store counts.
In that 2022 interview, he also discussed the pandemic-era shift toward domestic customers, retail beyond capital cities, supply-chain tension and Richemont’s support for ecommerce and other capabilities. These remarks offer later context on the operating issues he had identified, but do not confirm the outcome of each 2019 plan.
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What future did Pontroué predict for Panerai?
For the five-year outlook he gave in 2019, Pontroué said his target was for Panerai to “remain part of the top 20 operators in the luxury watch world.” He also wanted the brand to maintain balanced distribution and develop customers in their own markets, rather than rely chiefly on tourists buying watches while travelling.
This was a stated target and direction, not a verified ranking or proof that the forecast was achieved. The 2019 interview does not establish Panerai’s later position in a top-20 list.
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Which Panerai did he choose for himself?
Asked which single Panerai he would wear, Pontroué chose the Submersible. He called it a “civilized version” of the original diver’s watch and mentioned titanium, BMG, Bronzo and Carbotech when discussing materials. His answer identifies a preferred product family in a historical interview; it is not an independent recommendation or a guide to current references, specifications, prices or availability.
Who leads Panerai now?
Pontroué is no longer Panerai’s CEO. Richemont’s announcement of 18 March 2025 said he would step down on 1 April 2025, after leading the maison since 2018, and that Emmanuel Perrin would become CEO on that date.
The announcement traces Panerai’s roots to Florence in 1860 and its historical supply of precision instruments to the Italian Navy and specialist diving corps. It also says the Radiomir and Luminor designs reached the international market after Richemont acquired Panerai in 1997, and that the maison develops and crafts its movements and watches at its Neuchâtel manufacture.
Pontroué continued to discuss Panerai publicly before his departure. An India Today interview listed in 2024 covered partnerships, new watches and the company’s plans for India’s luxury market. Its existence shows that he was still speaking about those themes; it does not establish how successful the plans became.
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