The Seiko 6138-8039 is a vintage automatic chronograph with a black-and-gold dial that some collectors call the “John Player Special.” The nickname comes from a visual resemblance to a famous Formula 1 livery. It does not come from an official Seiko product name or a racing partnership. This article covers what the watch is, where the name comes from, and what one owner’s experience says about living with it. That owner is Sean Lorentzen, who wrote about the watch for Worn & Wound in 2014 and 2016. His story belongs to him and to his watch, and I have kept it that way.
What the 6138-8039 is
The 6138-8039 is a specific reference within Seiko’s caliber 6138 family. In Lorentzen’s 2014 collector article, the caliber is Seiko’s first two-register chronograph model. It arrived a year after the 6139. Seiko’s own historical chronograph material also places the 6138 after the 6139 and notes the addition of 30-minute and 12-hour elapsed-time counters.
Lorentzen’s description of the layout and features:
- Two subdials, a 30-minute counter and a 12-hour counter, arranged at 12 and 6 o’clock.
- A day-date display.
- Hand-winding capability alongside automatic winding.
- A column-wheel chronograph, which he describes as snapping with a satisfying click when it works properly.
Seiko also has a technical service document titled “6138A Automatic Chronograph.” I have not drawn on its contents here. If you plan to service or buy parts for a watch, get the full document and a watchmaker who knows the caliber.
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Design and dimensions
Lorentzen describes a black dial with gold-toned subdials and chapter-ring details, a gold Seiko logo, contrasting white hands and markers, and a tachymeter ring. He calls the case a barrel shape, thick and sloping, and gives approximate dimensions of 40 mm across and 14 mm thick. Those are one writer’s collector-article figures, not a manufacturer specification. Measure any example you are considering.
Where “John Player Special” comes from
The black-and-gold scheme recalls the John Player-sponsored Lotus Formula 1 cars. Lorentzen is careful about this. He writes: “While there’s no official evidence of Lotus being mentioned at the Seiko design offices, and certainly no official partnership between the two companies (more on that later), it’s hard not to look at the Seiko ‘John Player Special’ and not see the touch of the Lotus John Player Specials.”
So the claim you can safely make is that the watch evokes the livery. “John Player Special” is a collector nickname. Nothing reported indicates that Seiko made a licensed or team-partner watch. Be wary of listings that imply otherwise.
Rank #2
- RACING CHRONOGRAPH DESIGN: The 1960 Racing Chronograph watch features a striking off-white and black panda dial, capturing the golden era of motorsport with modern precision.
- PRECISE QUARTZ MOVEMENT: Powered by a highly accurate quartz chronograph movement, this analog watch ensures perfect timekeeping and reliable stopwatch functionality for men.
- DOMED SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL: Fitted with a scratch-resistant domed sapphire crystal and anti-reflective coating, offering unparalleled optical clarity and protection against wear.
- PREMIUM STAINLESS STEEL: Crafted from high-grade 316L stainless steel, the watch case provides a robust, premium feel that resists daily wear for long-lasting performance.
- EVERYDAY VERSATILITY: Boasting a 5 ATM water resistance rating, this classic sports watch handles daily splashes and perfectly complements both casual and formal attire.
A personal ownership journey
How the watch found him
In his 2016 “My Watch” essay, Lorentzen ties his interest in watches to a family fascination with cars and to memories of 1960s and 1970s Formula 1 and Le Mans imagery. He wanted a vintage chronograph with an F1 feel. He came across the 6138-8039 by chance while searching for Seiko 6138 watches. What drew him in was the 12-and-6 subdial arrangement, the thick sloping case, the black dial, and the gold-toned registers and chapter ring.
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Rank #3
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When the watch needed work
Lorentzen’s account of his own example is less romantic. He reports:
- Substantial time loss.
- Inaccurate chronograph behavior.
- An overpolished case.
- Sticking pushers.
He describes two unsuccessful service attempts. A later service fixed it. In his words: “Ever since its spa day, it has been accurate to within 10 seconds a day, the automatic column-wheel chronograph runs perfectly and snaps with a satisfying click, and the complex barrel case has been restored to its original mix of brushed and polished surfaces.”
Rank #4
- RACING-INSPIRED DUAL-LAYER DIAL—— Inspired by racing dashboards, the bold dual-layer dial delivers depth and clarity, featuring applied hour markers and a CD-textured chronograph subdial for easy reading in everyday wear.
- HAND-WOUND MECHANICAL CHRONOGRAPH—— Powered by the ST19 hand-wound chronograph movement. This mechanical watch does not use a battery—manual winding is required for normal operation and precise timing.
- DAILY MANUAL WINDING RITUAL—— To keep the watch running, gently rotate the crown clockwise about 15–20 turns each day. When resistance is felt, winding is complete—an engaging, hands-on mechanical experience.
- FUNCTIONAL CHRONOGRAPH WITH TACHYMETER—— Equipped with a mechanical chronograph and tachymeter scale for measuring speed over distance, inspired by classic motorsport instrumentation.
- COMFORTABLE FIT & EASY STRAP SWITCHING—— 40 mm case diameter with a 12.4 mm thickness offers balanced wrist presence. Lug width is 20 mm, paired with quick-release straps (120 + 80 mm) for easy daily switching between styles.
What his story does and does not tell you
It is one owner’s report about one watch. It is not an independent test, and no population-level data on failure rates or service outcomes was found. It does not show that every 6138-8039 has these faults, or that every one can be brought back to roughly ten seconds a day.
What it does show is practical. A complex 1970s chronograph can need more than one attempt to get right. The skill of the watchmaker matters, and so does case condition. The overpolishing he describes is a reminder that a poor refinish can soften the barrel case’s mix of brushed and polished surfaces. If you are shopping, these are the areas worth checking:
Best Value
- Gold Swan Neck Regulator
- Column Wheel Chronograph
- Luminous Hands
- Blue steel screws
- Exhibition Case Back Cover
- Timekeeping and chronograph action: ask for evidence of how it runs, and whether the pushers and column-wheel action feel crisp.
- Case condition: look for softened edges and lost brushed-to-polished transitions.
- Dial and details: check that the black dial, gold-toned registers, and logo look consistent and original.
- Service history and provenance: ask who serviced it and when.
- Parts support: confirm with a watchmaker before you buy that parts for this caliber are obtainable. Availability and compatibility are not established here.
Lorentzen’s 2014 article included a price estimate. It is dated and should not guide a purchase today. Check current sales of comparable, well-documented examples instead.
The Bottom Line
The 6138-8039 is worth knowing for its look alone: a barrel case, black dial, gold registers, and a racing-livery resemblance that needs no official backing. It also comes with the usual demands of a vintage chronograph. Lorentzen’s experience suggests buying on condition and service history, not on the nickname.
Quick Recap
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