The Vario Empire Seasons True GMT pairs an Art Deco-inspired design with a practical traveller-GMT movement: its Miyota 9075 lets you adjust the local-hour hand independently when changing time zones. It is a compact, 38 mm mechanical watch with distinctive dial colors, but its decorative design, minimal lume and 5 ATM rating make it a more specific choice than an all-purpose travel or dive watch.
What “true GMT” means on the Vario Empire
The Empire uses the Miyota 9075 automatic movement. Its 12-hour local-hour hand can be adjusted independently, so when you arrive in a different time zone you can move the local time forward or backward without resetting the minute hand. The 24-hour GMT hand can continue showing a second time zone.
This arrangement is commonly called a traveller or flyer GMT, in contrast with GMT watches whose independently adjusted hand is the 24-hour hand. Fratello reviewer Vincent Deschamps describes the Empire as a flyer GMT, while noting that the label “true” is sometimes used imprecisely. The useful distinction is the adjustment: on this watch, the local-hour hand moves independently.
Design: modern Art Deco character, not a vintage artifact
Vario’s Empire name and dial and case treatment evoke Art Deco, and the watch is presented as a contemporary interpretation rather than a period piece. Time+Tide described four launch colors: Winter White, Spring Green, Summer Blue and Autumn Salmon. The color and detailing are central to the watch’s appeal; it is less visually restrained than a conventional tool-style GMT.
#1 Best Overall
- Quartz GMT Movement - When used in conjunction with the black and blue rotating bezel, the two-blue and white triangle GMT hand can be used to track a second time zone.
- Stainless-steel - The stainless-steel case and bracelet are resistant to corrosion, rust, and daily wear and tear.
- Date Window - Easily track the date in a dedicated window beside 3 o'clock.
- Enhanced Visibility - Luminant hands ensure readability in low-light conditions.
That decorative emphasis has a trade-off. In its hands-on review, Fratello praised the dial execution but found the hour and minute hands on the salmon version difficult to read in some situations. The reviewer also observed that lume is nearly absent, apart from the tip of the GMT hand. Those are review impressions of the model examined, not a guarantee that every wearer will have the same experience.
Size, movement and listed specifications
| Specification | Vario listing or review detail |
|---|---|
| Case diameter | 38 mm, according to Vario |
| Lug-to-lug | 46 mm, according to Vario |
| Thickness | 12 mm, according to Vario |
| Movement | Miyota 9075 automatic True GMT, according to Vario |
| Movement details | 24 jewels, 28,800 vibrations per hour and a 42-hour power reserve, as reported by Fratello in its October 25, 2023 review |
| Crystal | Sapphire with inner anti-reflective coating, according to Vario |
| Water resistance | 5 ATM, as listed by Vario and reported by Fratello |
| Strap width | 20 mm, according to Vario |
The 38 mm diameter is only part of the fit picture: the 46 mm lug-to-lug measurement and 12 mm thickness also affect how the watch sits on a wrist. Vario says the case and bracelet receive a scratch-resistance coating. The published 5 ATM rating should be treated as a specification, not as evidence that the Empire is a dedicated dive watch or as activity-specific guidance.
Rank #2
- 38mm stainless steel case
- Day date window on dial
- Acrylic lens
- Stainless steel attachment
- Water resistant to 50m (165 ft): In general, suitable for short periods of recreational swimming, but not diving or snorkeling
Strap and bracelet options
Vario lists a vintage-style Italian leather strap and a metal bracelet, and Fratello reports that both are included. The 20 mm width gives owners a common measurement to use when looking for an alternate strap, but width alone does not establish fit: check the attachment and spring-bar compatibility of the exact strap before buying. Vario lists a two-year international warranty.
Price, colors and availability
Vario’s official Summer Blue product page listed the watch at US$698 and marked that colorway sold out when accessed. The page identifies Summer Blue as a limited edition of 60 pieces. This is variant-specific information; check Vario’s live listing for current stock, price, shipping terms and any duties that may apply to your destination.
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Rank #3
- Premium Craftsmanship – This men's watch features a robust 44mm 316L stainless steel octagonal case, offering a distinctive and durable design. The sapphire lens with anti-reflective coating ensures clarity and scratch resistance, making it suitable for both adventure and daily wear.
- Precision Engineering – Equipped with the Seiko NH34 GMT automatic movement, this timepiece allows tracking of multiple time zones with accuracy. The independent GMT hand and bi-directional 24-hour bezel facilitate seamless timekeeping for the modern traveler.
- Ready for Adventure – With a water resistance of up to 300 meters (30 ATM), this watch is built to withstand deep-sea explorations and rigorous activities. The screw-down crown and exhibition case back enhance its resilience and functionality under pressure.
- Comfortable Wear – The solid stainless steel bracelet, complemented by an additional matching rubber strap, offers versatility and comfort. The fold-over buckle with safety lock and push button ensures a secure fit for any occasion.
- Inspired by the Depths – Paying homage to pioneering diver Frédéric Dumas, this timepiece combines vintage diving aesthetics with modern functionality. Spinnaker's dedication to maritime heritage is evident in the Dumas GMT, making it an ideal companion for those drawn to the sea's allure.
For context, Time+Tide reported an initial run of 300 watches across the four launch colors and quoted AU$1,108 at launch in October 2023. That launch-era figure is not a current price, and the 300-piece range total is distinct from the 60-piece Summer Blue listing. Availability and prices can differ by color and change over time.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Who the Empire Seasons True GMT suits
- Frequent time-zone changers: the independently adjustable local-hour hand makes the Miyota 9075’s traveller-GMT operation useful for resetting local time on arrival.
- Design-led buyers: the Art Deco-inspired styling and seasonal colors are the main point of distinction, rather than a conventional instrument-watch look.
- People comparing fit: consider the full 38 mm diameter, 46 mm lug-to-lug and 12 mm thickness rather than judging the case by diameter alone.
- Buyers who prioritize instant legibility or nighttime reading: factor in Fratello’s comments about the salmon dial’s hand contrast and the model’s minimal lume.
When comparing it with another GMT, focus on how each movement adjusts its hands, whether the dial is easy to read in the conditions you care about, the complete case dimensions, the water-resistance rating and what comes in the box. For the Empire, the defining combination is traveller-GMT functionality and Art Deco-inspired design, with legibility and low-light performance worth weighing alongside the styling.
Quick Recap
Best Value
- 40mm silver-tone case
- 8 inch silver-tone bracelet
- Blue dial
- Acrylic lens
- Water resistant up to 50 meters
Rank #4
- 43mm GMT Case Design: Crafted with a 43mm round case and balanced proportions, delivering a confident, travel-ready wrist presence.
- Bi-Directional Rotating Bezel: Features a functional bi-directional rotating bezel for intuitive GMT tracking and time zone reference.
- Dual-Time Quartz Movement: Powered by Swiss quartz GMT movement, allowing precise dual-time tracking for global travel.
- Durable Travel Construction: Protected by a mineral crystal with a screw-down crown and 50M (165 ft) water resistance for everyday reliability.
- Stainless Steel Bracelet Options: Secured with a solid 3-link bracelet, available in stainless steel or rose gold-tone, finished with a fold-over clasp.
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
