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Why the Old Rolex “Root Beer” 16713 Is Better Than the Modern One, and for Whom

The 16713 Root Beer is better for buyers who value its brown dial and vintage character. The modern 126711CHNR wins on ceramic durability and power reserve.
Estimate4–5 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team
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The 16713 is not objectively better than the modern 126711CHNR. It is better for a buyer who values its warm brown sunburst dial, its brown-and-gold aluminum bezel, and its vintage personality more than the newer watch’s ceramic bezel and movement. The modern model wins on durability and on power reserve, and those are measurable advantages. The choice comes down to what you want the watch to be.

Why “better” depends on the buyer

The case for the 16713 rests on taste rather than on a technical ranking. A 2021 opinion piece on Fratello by Brandon Baines makes the argument most often repeated in vintage circles: the two-tone “Root Beer” 16713 has long been his favorite GMT-Master, and he prefers it to the 126711CHNR’s black dial, brown-and-black bezel, and Everose accents. He acknowledges that the modern model is more up to date. Read that way, the headline is a personal aesthetic verdict, and it should be weighed as one.

What the two watches are

The 16713: the pre-ceramic Root Beer

The 16713 is a two-tone Rolesor GMT-Master II reference with yellow gold. Specialist reference guides place its production from 1989 to approximately 2006. The ceramic 116713LN took its catalog position in 2007, so 2006 is generally treated as the likely final production year and 2007 as the successor’s catalog debut, with some carry-over inventory possible. Published accounts differ on these edges, so treat them as approximate.

The reference used a 24-hour aluminum insert. The Root Beer version pairs a warm brown sunburst dial with a brown-and-gold bezel, and the same reference was also made in an all-black configuration. The Root Beer pairing is the one that gives the model its nickname and its reputation.

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The 126711CHNR: the modern reinterpretation

The two-tone 126711CHNR was introduced in 2018. It combines Oystersteel with 18 ct Everose gold, uses a brown-and-black Cerachrom bezel, a black dial, and caliber 3285. Specialist guides describe it as a reinterpretation of the Root Beer identity rather than a revival of it. The brown dial and yellow-gold accents of the vintage watch become a black dial and Everose accents, so the nickname carries over while the palette changes.

The case for the 16713

The 16713’s appeal is visual and emotional. The brown sunburst dial shifts tone with the light, and the brown-and-gold bezel reads as a single warm color story that the modern black-and-brown bezel does not replicate. For many buyers this is the whole point: the watch looks like a specific era of GMT-Master II, and its yellow gold gives it a different character from the Everose version.

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The older reference also has a rarity of its own. It is discontinued, and that gives a collector a fixed object to hunt for rather than a current catalog item to buy at retail. That scarcity is part of why the Root Beer has held its following, though it is not a guarantee of future value.

Where the modern 126711CHNR is stronger

The modern watch’s advantages are concrete. Rolex’s official history page states that “In 2005, the GMT‑Master II became the first Rolex watch to feature a Cerachrom bezel insert crafted from high-technology ceramic.” Rolex describes Cerachrom as virtually scratchproof, resistant to corrosion and ultraviolet light, and unable to change color. The 16713’s aluminum insert is more vulnerable to scratching, and the bezel’s brown-and-gold finish will show wear that a ceramic insert would resist.

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The movement is the second difference. Rolex’s GMT-Master II brochure lists caliber 3285 with approximately 70 hours of power reserve and an independently rapid-setting hour hand for the second time zone. Those specifications come from the 3285-generation brochure for the full-Everose 126715CHNR, so they apply to the movement generation rather than to every case detail of the two-tone 126711CHNR. The same brochure lists a 40 mm case and 100 metres / 330 feet of water resistance for that model. The independent hour-hand adjustment itself dates to 1982, when Rolex introduced the GMT-Master II name, according to the same official history.

Side-by-side comparison

Axis Vintage 16713 (Root Beer) Modern 126711CHNR
Production status Discontinued; production roughly 1989 to approximately 2006 per specialist reference guides Introduced 2018; current catalog model at the time of the 2021 article, check Rolex’s current catalog for availability
Dial Warm brown sunburst Black
Bezel Brown-and-gold 24-hour aluminum insert Brown-and-black Cerachrom ceramic
Case metal Yellow-gold Rolesor Oystersteel with 18 ct Everose gold
Bezel durability Aluminum; scratches more readily than ceramic Rolex describes Cerachrom as virtually scratchproof, corrosion- and UV-resistant, with unalterable color
Movement Caliber 3185 is typical; late 16713T examples may carry caliber 3186 Caliber 3285
Power reserve Not stated for this reference in the specialist guides consulted Approximately 70 hours, per Rolex’s GMT-Master II brochure for the 3285 generation
Hour hand Not stated for this reference Independently rapid-setting, per Rolex’s GMT-Master II brochure for the 3285 generation
Best fit Buyers who value the earlier palette and vintage feel Buyers who prioritize the newer movement and ceramic bezel

Buying a vintage 16713: what to check

The 16713 is a used-market purchase, and the individual watch matters more than the reference. Specialist guides flag these points:

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  • Dial condition. Flaking around the hour indexes is a known concern on brown sunburst dials. A flaked or refinished dial changes both the look and the value that drew you to the model.
  • Movement generation. Late 16713T examples can contain caliber 3185 or caliber 3186. Confirm which movement is fitted rather than assuming every late example is identical.
  • Bezel. Inspect the brown-and-gold aluminum insert for scratches, fading, and any replacement, since it is the element most likely to show wear.
  • Documentation and service history. Reference guides are useful background, but they do not replace inspecting the specific watch or reviewing its service records.

For a purchase of this size, an independent watch inspection or authentication service can check the dial, bezel, and movement before you pay. Prices vary with condition, seller, region, and date, so compare current listings directly rather than relying on any price cited in an article.

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Which watch to buy

  • Choose the 16713 if the brown sunburst dial and brown-and-gold bezel are the reason you want the watch, and you are prepared to inspect a used example carefully.
  • Choose the 126711CHNR if you want the ceramic bezel, the 3285 movement with its approximately 70-hour reserve and rapid-setting hour hand, and a watch you can buy new.

The Root Beer nickname does not make the older watch a better overall GMT-Master II. It makes it the more distinctive one for a buyer who wants that particular vintage look.

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Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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