The “Dirty Dozen” is a later collectors’ nickname for twelve makers of W.W.W. watches supplied to British forces during the Second World War. The watches shared a general-service brief, but differed in details and were not intended as specialist navigation instruments. Vertex was the British-based maker among the twelve, although its company history describes Swiss movement and wartime production connections.
The British Horological Institute (BHI) says the W.W.W. specification was approved in 1945 and deliveries began in May that year, after Germany’s surrender. It also says claims that these watches served a technical navigation role are incorrect. Read the BHI’s account.
What was the Dirty Dozen?
The Dirty Dozen refers to the twelve manufacturers associated with the British W.W.W. general-service watch:
- Buren
- Cyma
- Eterna
- Grana
- Jaeger-LeCoultre
- Lemania
- Longines
- International Watch Co., usually known as IWC
- Omega
- Record
- Timor
- Vertex
There is no single official total for all makers in the research reviewed. Fratello Watches estimated about 150,000 W.W.W. watches in 2023; that is an estimate, not a complete official Ministry of Defence count. Fratello also estimated 1,000–1,500 Grana examples, while it identified counts of 6,000 IWC, 10,000 Jaeger-LeCoultre, and 25,000 Omega as confirmed by those makers’ records. See Fratello’s 2023 overview.
#1 Best Overall
- CLASSIC RETRO CASIO DESIGN A timeless digital watch that has remained an icon for decades. The vintage square face and polished stainless steel bracelet deliver a clean, minimalist style that complements casual, business, and everyday wear for both men and women.
- RELIABLE EVERYDAY DIGITAL FUNCTIONS Stay organized with practical features including a 1/100-second stopwatch, daily alarm, hourly time signal, auto calendar, and selectable 12/24-hour time format—everything you need in a dependable everyday
- LONG-LASTING 7-YEAR BATTERY Powered by a dependable CR2016 battery designed to last approximately seven years under normal use, giving you years of worry-free performance with minimal maintenance.
- LIGHTWEIGHT & COMFORTABLE Weighing only 46 grams, the slim profile and adjustable stainless steel bracelet provide exceptional comfort for all-day wear. The self-adjustable clasp allows for a customized fit on a wide range of wrist sizes.
- TRUSTED CASIO QUALITY Built with Casio's legendary reliability, this water-resistant digital watch features a durable chrome-plated resin case, stainless steel bracelet, LED backlight for nighttime visibility, and quartz accuracy of approximately ±30 seconds per month.
“General service” describes the intended supply category, not a guarantee that every watch went to a frontline soldier or saw combat. The BHI says many watches went to the Army in the Far East. Watches could also be held in stores, assigned to different units, repaired, and returned to service.
What did W.W.W. mean?
The BHI expands W.W.W. as “watches, wristlet, waterproof.” The specification called for a luminised wristwatch in a waterproof case and a minimum 15-jewel non-magnetic lever movement, among other requirements. These were practical general-service watches, not dedicated navigation instruments.
Common visual features include:
- A black dial with white Arabic numerals.
- Luminous hands and dial markers.
- A railroad-style minute track.
- Small seconds at six o’clock.
The formal specification also covered movement testing and caseback markings. The shared brief did not make the watches identical: reported diameters are commonly in the 35–38 mm range, and dial details, hands, case shapes, materials, and backs vary by maker. The BHI also records corrosion problems in service.
The broad arrow and military markings
Many examples carry the British broad arrow, or Pheon, alongside W.W.W. markings and military serialisation. These markings are useful evidence, but they do not by themselves prove that every component is original or that a watch is untouched.
Quick wins for a faster PC:
Scan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minuteDriver Scan →Clear out junk files and repair common Windows errorsFree Scan →Fix the driver behind crashes, sound loss and screen glitchesFind Drivers →Military watches were serviced, and components could be exchanged during their working lives. A genuine watch may have replacement parts or restoration work; a broad arrow alone does not establish authenticity. Assess the markings, construction, movement, dial, hands, case, and any service documentation together.
Rank #2
- ELEGANT AND FASHIONABLE DESIGN:This square case women's gold watch dial design is delicate and simple, with a delicate square outline to highlight the unique personality, simplicity reveals the extraordinary fashion taste,adjustable strap skin-friendly and comfortable to fit the wrist.Whether with a professional suit to show the workplace women's competence,or with an evening dress to highlight the elegance of temperament can inadvertently reveal the noble temperament.
- GOLD COLOURED STAINLESS STEEL BRACELET:The band size of this watch can be resized,please use the included tool and watch the video to adjust it.The strap is crafted from high quality stainless steel with luxurious gold plating,creating a layered and three-dimensional look that expresses your personality and taste.
- DURABLE AND RELIABLE:The gold watch utilizes a high quality movement and battery to ensure accurate timekeeping.The dial is decorated with white Roman dials in a classic and elegant design with a strong vintage flavor.The high-strength coated glass crystal is resistant to scratches,shocks and abrasions.Water resistant to 3 ATM ( 99feet),it can withstand daily activities such as hand washing,splashing and sweating.
- PERFECT GIFT FOR HER:This watches for women not only shows the exquisite charm of the watch,but also illustrates the wearer's relentless pursuit of quality and fashion.Ideal gift for weddings, anniversaries,birthdays,parties,Valentine's Day,Mother's Day,Christmas and other special holidays.
- BUY WITH CONFIDENCE:If you are not satisfied with any of our watch products,feel free to contact us,we will be wholeheartedly for you to solve!
Why Vertex is the British member
Vertex is the British-based maker in the recognised group of twelve. The company says it was founded in London in 1912 by Claude Lyons and specialised in Swiss movements cased in Britain. The BHI includes Vertex among the W.W.W. suppliers.
Vertex’s heritage page describes its wartime Cal 59 production and claims that 4,652 watches were delivered during preparations for D-Day. Attribute that number to Vertex: it is a company-published claim, and its chronology does not align with the BHI account that the specification was approved in 1945 and deliveries began in May 1945. Vertex also describes its watches as navigation watches, but the BHI explicitly says the navigation claim is incorrect. See Vertex’s heritage account.
How many Vertex Cal 59 watches were made?
Vertex’s undated heritage page claims 4,652 Cal 59 W.W.W. watches were delivered during D-Day preparations. Treat that as the company’s claim, not an independently confirmed total. The research reviewed does not establish a reliable overall Vertex production figure.
The original Vertex Cal 59
The Vertex Cal 59 is one maker’s version of the W.W.W. general-service watch. As with the other Dirty Dozen watches, assess the individual example rather than assuming every surviving watch has the same dimensions, materials, or original components. Corrosion, restoration, replacement parts, and service history all matter.
How to assess an original Vertex
A “Dirty Dozen Vertex” label in a listing is a seller’s claim, not proof. For a valuable vintage watch, seek clear documentation and an assessment from a specialist familiar with military watches.
Rank #3
- ELEGANT & DAINTY DESIGN: Featuring a beautifully crafted oval dial with a white finish, this bracelet watch combines jewelry-style elegance with modern simplicity. Its slim profile and delicate bangle design add a refined touch to any outfit, making it the perfect accessory for both casual and formal occasions.
- ACCURATE QUARTZ MOVEMENT: Crafted with reliable, high-quality quartz, this timepiece ensures accurate timekeeping with minimal maintenance requirements. You can rely on it to keep you punctually on schedule while adding an elegant touch to your wrist—truly a choice that combines style with practicality.
- A COMFORTABLE WATERPROOF WATCH TO WEAR：With water resistance of up to 30 metres (3 ATM), thiwatch can withstand daily splashes and rain. Lightweight and thoughtfully designed, it sits comfortably on the wrist all day long. Crafted from premium materials, it provides a secure yet delicate fit for most wrist sizes, combining effortless comfort with everyday durability.
- THOUGHTFUL GIFT READY: This gold-toned bracelet watch, presented in exquisite packaging, makes a truly memorable gift for birthdays, anniversaries or celebrations of achievement. Its timeless allure and refined appearance will make every woman feel cherished and stylish.
- FRIENDLY REMINDER AND AFTER-SALES SERVICE: Please carefully review the detailed product specifications (case diameter, thickness, strap width, strap length) before placing your order. The strap length accommodates wrist circumferences ranging from 5.51 inches to 7.0 inches. Should you have any queries, please do not hesitate to contact us.
1. Start with the dial
Compare the dial layout, numerals, minute track, small seconds, luminous details, and markings with reliable references. Aged lume alone does not prove originality; luminous material can deteriorate or be replaced.
2. Check the case and markings
Inspect the case, caseback, lugs, and military markings for consistency. Look for signs of corrosion, polishing, reworking, or replacement. Consider the complete construction rather than relying on a single marking.
3. Verify the movement
Have the movement and its markings examined against credible reference material. Ask a watchmaker to check for corrosion, wear, replacement parts, and evidence of past repairs. A historically interesting watch may still need costly or safety-conscious servicing.
4. Compare the hands and other parts
Check whether the hands and other components make sense with the dial and case. Replacement parts do not automatically make a watch worthless, but they affect how its condition and originality should be described.
5. Ask for service and provenance evidence
Request clear photographs of the dial, movement, case, and markings, and ask what is known about service, restoration, and replacement parts. Provenance can support a purchase, but an appealing story is not a substitute for physical inspection.
Rank #4
- TIMELESS VINTAGE OVAL DESIGN：The VAVC small gold watches for women showcases a classic and elegant oval shape with surface golden Roman font, making it one of the most stylish gold watches for women that enhances both casual and formal outfits
- COMFORTABLE FIT STAINLESS STEEL EXPANSION BAND：This watch features a stainless steel elastic strap and is thoughtfully designed in two sizes for you,small fits wrists from 5.91in - 6.7in and large fits wrists from 6.7in - 7.49in .It can easily adapt to the wrist and provide all day comfort while maintaining the elegance of women's gold watches.
- DURABLE AND RELIABLE：The watch is equipped with a high-quality quartz movement to ensure accurate timekeeping. You can rely on its precision to keep you on time during business trips or important meetings. And the watch is water-resistant to 30 metres (100 feet), so you can wear it every day with confidence. Whether it's washing your hands or just a light drizzle, this durable watch can withstand everyday activities - perfect for those looking for a reliable women's gold watch
- THE IDEAL GIFT FOR ANY OCCASION：Elegantly packaged, the VAVC small women's gold watch makes a thoughtful gift for birthdays, anniversaries or holidays. Its timeless design and practical features make it an ideal gift for the lady you admire
- CUSTOMER SERVICE：Provide peace of mind with a satisfying shopping experience, if the purchase does not meet your expectations, please contact us at any time.Customer satisfaction is our top priority, and each watch is meticulously produced under strict quality standards and thoroughly inspected before packaging. giving you peace of mind and ensuring your purchase is protected
6. Treat a listing as a starting point
The sources reviewed do not establish present-day prices, inventory, or seller authenticity. Do not treat an asking price or listing description as proof of originality. For an expensive purchase, seek an independent specialist inspection.
Free tools Windows power users keep installed
One-click scans. No signup required.
Vertex compared with the other eleven
The Dirty Dozen watches share a broad military brief, but each maker’s watch has its own details. Compare dial and handset design, case size and shape, materials, caseback construction, markings, and condition. Fratello’s overview discusses these differences and the limits of production figures.
| Comparison point | What to consider |
|---|---|
| Dial and hands | Maker-specific details, numeral shapes, seconds subdial, and signs of restoration. |
| Case | Size, shape, material, caseback construction, corrosion, and evidence of alteration. |
| Markings | Whether military markings and serial details are consistent with the rest of the watch. |
| Condition and history | Originality, replacement parts, service documentation, corrosion, and provenance. |
| Production figures | Whether a number is a documented count or a named source’s estimate. |
Fratello’s 2023 account estimates Grana production at 1,000–1,500 and identifies IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Omega counts as supported by the respective makers’ records. These figures describe different kinds of evidence and should not be presented as equally certain.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.The modern Vertex revival
Vertex’s current heritage page presents modern models such as the M100 and M36 as military tributes. They are contemporary watches, not newly issued Second World War W.W.W. watches. Compare any modern tribute with an original on its own specifications and intended use.
What the Dirty Dozen is—and is not
- It is: a later collector term for twelve makers associated with British W.W.W. general-service watches.
- It is not: the name of a formal wartime military unit.
- It is: a group of watches built to a shared military brief, with maker-specific differences.
- It is not: a set of twelve identical watches or a collection of specialist navigation instruments.
- Vertex is: the British-based maker among the twelve.
- Vertex’s 4,652 delivery figure: a claim published by the company, with chronology that differs from the BHI account.
FAQ
What is the Dirty Dozen?
It is collectors’ shorthand for twelve makers of British W.W.W. general-service watches. The name was not the official title of a military unit.
The Tool Desk
Outbyte PC Repair FREEClear out junk files and repair common Windows errorsFree Scan →Outbyte Driver Updater FREEScan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minuteDriver Scan →Best Value
- ICONIC VINTAGE DESIGN A true Casio classic, the A168WA-1 combines timeless retro styling with dependable digital functionality. Its polished stainless steel bracelet and signature square case create an iconic look that's perfect for everyday wear, business casual, or vintage-inspired fashion.
- BRIGHT ELECTRO-LUMINESCENT BACKLIGHT Unlike standard LED illumination, the A168 features Casio's Electro-Luminescent (EL) backlight, providing a bright, even blue-green glow across the entire display for outstanding nighttime visibility.
- PRACTICAL EVERYDAY FEATURES Stay on schedule with a 1/100-second stopwatch, daily alarm, hourly time signal, auto calendar, and selectable 12/24-hour time format. Designed for reliable everyday performance whether you're at work, school, or on the go.
- LIGHTWEIGHT COMFORT & LONG BATTERY LIFE Weighing just 50 grams with an adjustable stainless steel bracelet, the A168WA-1 is comfortable enough for all-day wear. Its dependable CR2016 battery provides approximately seven years of operation under normal use.
- DEPENDABLE CASIO QUALITY Built with Casio's legendary reliability, this watch features quartz accuracy of approximately ±30 seconds per month, water resistance for daily use, a durable chrome-plated resin case, and a stainless steel bracelet designed to withstand years of everyday wear.
Which 12 watches are the Dirty Dozen?
The makers are Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor, and Vertex.
Were the W.W.W. watches used for navigation?
No. The BHI says the watches were intended for general-service wristwatch use and specifically corrects claims that they served a technical navigation role.
Was Vertex the only British maker?
Vertex was the British-based maker among the twelve. Its company history describes Swiss movement and wartime production connections; do not assume every wartime watch was manufactured in Britain.
How many Vertex Cal 59 watches were made?
Vertex’s heritage page claims 4,652 were delivered during preparations for D-Day. That is a company-published claim, and the research reviewed does not establish a reliable overall Vertex production total.
What’s actually slowing this PC down?
Pick the symptom - the matching free tool is one click away.
Does a broad arrow prove a watch is original?
No. It is one piece of evidence. Markings, construction, movement, condition, service history, and provenance should be assessed together.
The Bottom Line
The Dirty Dozen is a collector label for twelve makers of British W.W.W. general-service watches, not a single model or a group of navigation instruments. Vertex was the British-based maker among them, but its company-published account of wartime deliveries and chronology should be distinguished from the BHI’s account. For collectors, production claims, originality, corrosion, service history, and documentation all deserve careful scrutiny.
Quick Recap
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
