TUDOR announced its first manufacture calibre in 2015, marking a shift from the Swiss-supplier movements it had used previously. The announcement covered two watches, including updates to the Black Bay and Pelagos families. Since then, TUDOR has developed calibres with different functions and certifications; the movement in a particular Black Bay or other model depends on its exact reference.
1926–1949: TUDOR’s early movement examples
TUDOR says the brand was registered for Hans Wilsdorf in 1926. Its history identifies one representative early example, the Oyster reference 4463, as using mechanical Calibre 59 with an anti-shock system and two positions. The brand also says Rolex guaranteed TUDOR watches’ technical, aesthetic and functional characteristics, and supported distribution and after-sales service. This single reference is a historical example, not a movement specification for every early TUDOR watch. TUDOR’s history
1971–1976: a faster chronograph movement
For its 7100-series chronographs, TUDOR says it replaced the manually wound Valjoux 7734 with the manually wound Valjoux 234. In the brand’s comparison, the 234 ran at 21,600 beats per hour, against 18,000 for the 7734, and used a clutch and column-wheel mechanism. These are TUDOR’s published figures and description, not an independent test. TUDOR’s chronograph history
2015: the first TUDOR manufacture calibre
TUDOR dates the announcement of its first manufacture calibre to 2015. The brand presented it as a step toward greater independence after a history of using movements from Swiss suppliers. Its 2015 material described a mechanical self-winding calibre with a 70-hour power reserve and a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour, or 4 Hz. Other stated features included a variable-inertia oscillator, silicon balance spring, traversing bridge, bidirectional automatic winding and COSC certification. These are the manufacturer’s specifications for the announced calibre, not a guarantee that every TUDOR movement has the same features. TUDOR’s 2015 manufacture-calibre press document
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Black Bay and Pelagos receive manufacture calibres
TUDOR’s retrospective overview says the Black Bay and Pelagos families were updated with manufacture calibres in 2015. Its technical overview names the Black Bay MT5602 and Pelagos MT5612 as examples. A model-family name alone is not enough to identify the movement in every watch: check the specific reference and its current specification. TUDOR’s centenary overview
2016–2023: expanding movement production
TUDOR says the neighbouring Kenissi movement-production facility was founded in 2016. The brand’s Le Locle manufacture was completed in 2021, after three years of construction; TUDOR separately describes inaugurating its first industrial facility fully dedicated to the brand in 2023. Completion and inauguration are distinct milestones in the brand’s account. TUDOR on its manufacture TUDOR’s centenary overview
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Later calibres: features depend on the watch
TUDOR’s current movement information shows that its range is not defined by one universal specification. The examples below illustrate distinct functions and claims. They should not be read as features shared by every TUDOR watch.
| Calibre | Function or distinguishing claim | Published detail |
|---|---|---|
| MT5813 | Chronograph | Column wheel and vertical clutch; other comparison figures are not stated on the cited page. |
| MT5602-U | METAS-certified calibre | TUDOR states a tolerance of 0/+5 seconds per day when tested on a fully assembled watch. |
| MT5450-U | GMT | GMT function and an approximately 65-hour power reserve. |
| MT5400-U | METAS-certified calibre | 65-hour power reserve, according to TUDOR. |
The tolerance claim is specifically tied to testing a fully assembled watch; it is not a reported average for production samples. TUDOR’s page also does not establish independent real-world accuracy across watches. For the exact movement and certification of a watch, consult the specification for its reference. TUDOR’s movement information
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What COSC and METAS tell you
The 2015 manufacture-calibre material identifies COSC certification for that announced calibre. TUDOR’s current movement page identifies METAS certification for specific later examples, including MT5602-U and MT5400-U. The certifications belong to the stated calibres and configurations; they are not interchangeable labels for the entire brand or every Black Bay. Compare the specification of the particular watch rather than inferring certification from its collection name.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.How complete is this timeline?
TUDOR’s published history and technical pages give useful milestones and named examples, but they do not amount to a complete year-by-year movement register. The dates and specifications here are therefore representative snapshots from the brand’s own accounts, not an exhaustive supplier or calibre chronology.
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