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At their 2023 launch, Breguet’s steel Type 20 2057 and Type XX 2067 were reported at $18,000—about €20,000 in the launch-era coverage. Lex Stolk argued in a June 9, 2023 Fratello opinion essay that this was too low for the brand’s positioning. That is a question of perceived value, not an established market verdict: the watches’ specifications and history make the debate interesting, but they do not establish one objectively correct price.
Are the new Breguet Type 20 and Type XX too cheap?
“Too cheap” was Lex Stolk’s opinion about where Breguet should position its 2023 chronographs, not a finding backed by a market-wide pricing study. Stolk described the launch price as just below €20,000 and argued that Breguet ought to aim much higher. His proposed €60,000 was an aspirational figure of his own, tied to changes he believed would support that level—not a market-validated valuation or a price recommendation.
There is a reasonable case for seeing the watches as substantial products at their launch price: they combine an established aviation-watch history with newly developed automatic flyback movements, column-wheel control and a vertical clutch. But those features alone cannot prove that the watches were underpriced. Brand positioning, finishing, materials, customer demand and competing watches all shape perceived value; the available evidence does not settle their relative weight or establish an objective fair price.
The timeline matters. Hodinkee reported a launch price of $18,000 on June 6, 2023. Fratello’s June 9 article called it just below €20,000. Those are dated launch-era figures, not current prices. In October 2026, a retailer listing showed a steel Type 20 2057 at $27,200 and a gold Type XX 2067 at $49,500. The latter is a different material and reference, so it cannot establish how the original steel watches’ prices have changed on a like-for-like basis. Retailer listings can also change.
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- Size Selection: Before purchasing, please confirm the strap size compatible with your watch. The distance between the lugs where the strap connects to the watch case determines the strap width. The strap will only fit your watch if its width matches the lug width of your watch.
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What is the difference between the Breguet Type 20 and Type XX?
Breguet calls the 2023 redesign the fourth generation of the Type XX. The two steel references draw on distinct branches of the line: Type 20 is the military-inspired model, with Arabic numerals and cues associated with the French Air Force; Type XX is the civilian version, identified by Roman numerals.
| 2023 steel reference | Lineage and dial layout | Movement |
|---|---|---|
| Type 20 2057 | Military-inspired; large 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and running seconds at 9 | Calibre 7281 |
| Type XX 2067 | Civilian; 15-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 6 and running seconds at 9 | Calibre 728 |
Both steel watches have 42 mm cases, measure 14.1 mm thick, and are rated to 10 bar (100 m). Each has a date display and flyback chronograph operation. Breguet specifies a 5 Hz frequency and a 60-hour power reserve for these current-generation models.
How the movements differ
The calibre 728 powers the Type XX 2067; calibre 7281 powers the Type 20 2057. Breguet says calibre 728 was conceived, developed and finalized in-house over four years. It uses a column wheel and vertical clutch. Both calibres belong to the new generation, but the registers reflect the different military and civilian chronograph layouts rather than making the watches interchangeable in purpose or display.
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- Material: Stainless Steel
- LACAK 8 Prongs Movement Screwdriver compatible with Breguet Type XX-XXI-XXII Watch Movement Tool
- Package Quantity: 1 piece
- Note: This watch accessories is a premium, brand-new aftermarket substitute. Kindly avoid confusing it with an authentic original part.
What comes with the watches
Breguet supplied two interchangeable straps with each reference: one leather and one NATO fabric. The strap system is designed to change without tools. That does not, by itself, establish compatibility with third-party straps or confirm availability of a particular replacement strap.
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How much did the new Breguet Type XX cost at launch?
Hodinkee’s June 6, 2023 launch coverage reported $18,000 for the new watches. Fratello’s June 9, 2023 essay described the price as just below €20,000. These are the reported launch-era figures; they should not be read as current retail prices or as a direct currency conversion.
For context rather than a like-for-like update, an October 2026 retailer result listed a steel Type 20 2057 at $27,200 and a gold Type XX 2067 at $49,500. The references differ in both model and case material, and the retailer listing is subject to change. It does not show what either steel reference currently costs across retailers or regions.
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Why does Breguet use Type 20 and Type XX?
The names preserve the distinction between the military watch requested for French Air Force pilots and the later civilian lineage. Breguet’s collection history says the Air Force issued a tender in the early 1950s under the code name Type 20, and that Breguet began developing a watch in 1952. The Arabic-numeral Type 20 retains the military identity; Type XX marks the civilian branch and uses Roman numerals.
The scale of the original order is part of the watch’s provenance, not proof of what a modern version should cost. The Breguet archive published by Swatch Group records an order for 1,100 military Type 20 watches in 1954, with deliveries from 1955 through 1959.
What the “too cheap” argument can—and cannot—establish
Stolk’s headline argument is best understood as a positioning challenge: should a historically important Breguet chronograph with a new movement sit closer to the top of the luxury-watch market? His June 9, 2023 subtitle put the view bluntly: “The only way for Breguet is way, way up!” That is his stated opinion, not evidence of consensus among buyers or collectors.
- What supports the premium case: Breguet’s documented aviation-watch history, the fourth-generation status, flyback chronograph function, and the new movements’ column-wheel and vertical-clutch architecture.
- What the evidence does not settle: whether the finishing, materials, scarcity, ownership experience or brand demand justify a particular higher price relative to competitors. The specifications and historical record do not supply an objective valuation.
- What to compare before judging: use the same reference, case material, region and date when comparing prices. A 2023 steel launch price and a 2026 gold listing answer different questions.
So, were the new Type 20 and Type XX too cheap? They were priced below the level Lex Stolk thought Breguet should target. Whether that made them underpriced depends on an individual view of Breguet’s brand position and the value of the watches—not on a settled market finding.
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