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Bulgari’s record-setting watch at Watches and Wonders 2024 was the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, reference 104081. Bulgari lists it at 1.70 mm thick, while the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry identified it in May 2024 as the thinnest COSC-certified chronometer and the thinnest mechanical watch resistant to shocks and magnetic fields. That is a specific, dated record category—not a claim that it is the thinnest watch of any kind today.
Which Bulgari watch set the 2024 record?
The watch was the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, reference 104081. In its May 16, 2024 report, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry described it as the thinnest COSC-certified chronometer and the thinnest mechanical watch resistant to shocks and magnetic fields. The Federation also called it Bulgari’s ninth world record at that time. Both the record category and ordinal belong to that 2024 report; they should not be read as a current ranking or count. Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry
The label “COSC-certified chronometer” identifies the category of the achievement. It is more precise than saying simply that Bulgari made the world’s thinnest watch, which would imply a broader comparison than the reported record supports.
What are the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC’s specifications?
Bulgari lists reference 104081 as a 40 mm titanium watch with a tungsten-carbide main plate and an open-work dial. Its hand-wound BVL180 calibre beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and has a 50-hour power reserve. Bulgari gives both the case and total thickness as 1.70 mm, and lists the bracelet at 1.50 mm thick. These are the manufacturer’s stated specifications, not measurements of an independently tested sample. Bulgari product page
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| Specification | Bulgari listing |
|---|---|
| Reference | 104081 |
| Overall thickness | 1.70 mm |
| Case diameter | 40 mm |
| Bracelet thickness | 1.50 mm |
| Case and bracelet material | Titanium |
| Main plate | Tungsten carbide |
| Movement | Hand-wound BVL180 |
| Frequency | 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) |
| Power reserve | 50 hours |
| Water resistance | 0 m |
| Edition size | Limited to 20 pieces |
The listed 0 m water resistance is an important practical qualifier: this record-setting piece should not be treated as a conventional sports watch for wear around water. Bulgari lists the edition as limited to 20 pieces. Bulgari product page
What else did Bulgari show around Watches and Wonders 2024?
The Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC was part of a wider release conversation rather than the only design story. A contemporary Watches and Wonders roundup also names a Tadao Ando Serpenti Tubogas collaboration among Bulgari’s releases. That provides a glimpse of the broader lineup, not an exhaustive catalogue of every 2024 launch. Time and Tide Watches’ 2024 overview
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“Red carpet-ready” is an editorial way to frame the more jewelry-forward side of the launches, not a technical designation or an official Bulgari category. The Ultra COSC, by contrast, is chiefly notable here for its engineering and tightly defined thinness record.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Is the 2024 Ultra COSC the same as Bulgari’s later Ultra Tourbillon?
No. Bulgari’s current horology page presents a separate 2026 Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon: a platinum model measuring 1.85 mm and powered by the BVF 900 flying tourbillon calibre. It is a later, distinct watch; its material and movement are not specifications of the 2024 reference 104081. Bulgari Horlogerie
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