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Buying Guide: Five Highly Creative Retrograde Watches

Retrograde hands sweep an arc and jump back to the start. Compare three documented watches that use the motion for seconds, calendar displays and dual time.
Estimate4–5 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team
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A retrograde watch hand moves along an arc, then jumps back to the start instead of circling the dial. That simple motion can show seconds, calendar information or several indications at once. Monochrome Watches’ 2026 guide names five examples from Roger Dubuis, Breguet, Bovet, Maurice Lacroix and Otsuka Lotec, but the available specifications establish only three models in detail. The comparisons below identify those three without guessing the other two.

What is a retrograde watch?

A retrograde hand sweeps across a fixed scale and returns to its starting point when it reaches the end. It does not make a full revolution. Roger Dubuis describes the hand as tracing an arc before snapping back to zero. In a bi-retrograde display, two separate hands use this arc-and-return motion.

Retrograde describes how an indication moves, not what it measures. A watch might use the mechanism for seconds, day, date or another indication. The display can make a dial distinctive, but its usefulness depends on whether the scale and hand are easy to read.

Roger Dubuis says its founder co-patented the bi-retrograde complication in 1989 and presents it as a founding signature of the maison; that history is the brand’s account, not an independently established chronology. Roger Dubuis on retrograde

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#1 Best Overall
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AVI-8 Men's 45mm Hawker Hunter Retrograde Chronograph Sea Gray Watch with Leather Strap AV-4052-03
  • AVI-8 - OUR STORY: The brand inspiration and design excellence originates from the collaboration between pilots and engineers who served in air forces around the world. Every collection is an explicit homage to the planes, people and history of military aviation. Each timepiece brings to life the detail and narrative of the inspiration to delight and engage the wearer.
  • THE HAWKER HUNTER RETROGRADE: The Retrograde Chronograph pays suitable tribute to the famed jet without being cluttered and fussy in its carefully considered design. The Retrograde edition seemingly brings the instrument panel and cockpit of the Hawker Hunter to the wrist of the wearer with a homage and representation that is still utterly practical and balanced as a timepiece.
  • CHRONOGRAPH MOVEMENT: Built from the cockpit, styled for your wrist - a stylish men's watch with Japanese Quartz Chronograph movement, 10 Minutes Retrograde and Date
  • THE FINER DETAILS: The Hawker Hunter Retrograde features a 45mm stainless steel case, 22mm genuine leather strap, mineral lens with anti-reflective coating and water resistance of 50m.
  • 2 YEARS INTERNATIONAL WARRANTY: Your AVI-8 watch is warranted against any manufacturing defect for a period of twenty-four (24) months from the date of purchase.

Three documented watches from the five-watch selection

Monochrome Watches’ 2026 article presents its selection as five notable recent retrograde watches, not a definitive ranking. Its reported details support the three examples below. The article names Bovet and Otsuka Lotec among the other makers, but the available model information does not establish which specific watches it included; no model names or specifications are assigned to them here. Monochrome Watches

Watch What the retrograde display shows Reported specifications and price
Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide Day on the left and date on the right, in a dual retrograde perpetual-calendar display 38 mm pink-gold case; 48-hour power reserve; 30 m water resistance; 28-piece limited edition; EUR 138,000 including VAT, as reported by Monochrome Watches in 2026. Price and availability may have changed.
Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035BB Seconds hand sweeps a 60-second scale, then returns 38 mm case; 50-hour power reserve; 30 m water resistance; 250-piece limited edition; EUR 50,400 including VAT, as reported by Monochrome Watches in 2026. Price and availability may have changed.
Maurice Lacroix Master Aikonic Triple Retrograde 24-hour dual time, day of week and date Steel case with ceramic bezel; CHF 6,450, as reported by Monochrome Watches in 2026; described as not limited. Current price and availability may differ.

How the three displays differ

Roger Dubuis: day and date in a perpetual calendar

The Hommage La Placide uses two arcs for calendar information rather than a seconds display. Its left-hand day and right-hand date give the dial two separate reading tasks, while the perpetual-calendar complication supplies the broader calendar context. The reported 38 mm pink-gold case is the only material-and-diameter combination specified for this model in the cited guide.

Rank #2
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AVI-8 Mens 45mm Hawker Hunter Retrograde Chronograph Blue Diamond Japanese Quartz Pilot Watch with Leather Strap AV-4052-05
  • AVI-8 - OUR STORY: The brand inspiration and design excellence originates from the collaboration between pilots and engineers who served in air forces around the world. Every collection is an explicit homage to the planes, people and history of military aviation. Each timepiece brings to life the detail and narrative of the inspiration to delight and engage the wearer.
  • THE HAWKER HUNTER RETROGRADE: The Retrograde Chronograph pays suitable tribute to the famed jet without being cluttered and fussy in its carefully considered design. The Retrograde edition seemingly brings the instrument panel and cockpit of the Hawker Hunter to the wrist of the wearer with a homage and representation that is still utterly practical and balanced as a timepiece.
  • CHRONOGRAPH MOVEMENT: Built from the cockpit, styled for your wrist - a stylish men's watch with Japanese Quartz Chronograph movement, 10 Minutes Retrograde and Date
  • THE FINER DETAILS: The Hawker Hunter Retrograde features a 45mm stainless steel case, 22mm genuine leather strap, mineral lens with anti-reflective coating and water resistance of 50m.
  • 2 YEARS INTERNATIONAL WARRANTY: Your AVI-8 watch is warranted against any manufacturing defect for a period of twenty-four (24) months from the date of purchase.

Breguet: a retrograde seconds indication

The Tradition Seconde Rétrograde makes the motion itself the focus: its seconds hand crosses a 60-second arc and returns at the end. The guide reports the same 38 mm diameter and 30 m water resistance as the Roger Dubuis, but a different power reserve and a larger limited run. These figures describe the cited specifications, not a comparative test of performance.

Maurice Lacroix: three retrograde indications

The Master Aikonic Triple Retrograde applies the format to a sports-watch design. Its indications cover 24-hour dual time, day of week and date; the steel case and ceramic bezel distinguish its reported construction from the two gold or dress-oriented examples above. Three moving displays offer more information, but also give the wearer more scales and hands to parse.

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Rank #3
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AVI-8 Mens 45mm Hawker Hunter Retrograde Chronograph Charcoal Ember Brown Japanese Quartz Pilot Watch with Leather Strap AV-4052-02
  • AVI-8 - OUR STORY: The brand inspiration and design excellence originates from the collaboration between pilots and engineers who served in air forces around the world. Every collection is an explicit homage to the planes, people and history of military aviation. Each timepiece brings to life the detail and narrative of the inspiration to delight and engage the wearer.
  • THE HAWKER HUNTER RETROGRADE: The Retrograde Chronograph pays suitable tribute to the famed jet without being cluttered and fussy in its carefully considered design. The Retrograde edition seemingly brings the instrument panel and cockpit of the Hawker Hunter to the wrist of the wearer with a homage and representation that is still utterly practical and balanced as a timepiece.
  • CHRONOGRAPH MOVEMENT: Built from the cockpit, styled for your wrist - a stylish men's watch with Japanese Quartz Chronograph movement, 10 Minutes Retrograde and Date
  • THE FINER DETAILS: The Hawker Hunter Retrograde features a 45mm stainless steel case, 22mm genuine leather strap, mineral lens with anti-reflective coating and water resistance of 50m.
  • 2 YEARS INTERNATIONAL WARRANTY: Your AVI-8 watch is warranted against any manufacturing defect for a period of twenty-four (24) months from the date of purchase.

What to compare before choosing one

  • What the arc tells you: Decide whether seconds, day/date, or dual-time information is the useful complication for your routine.
  • How many indicators share the dial: A single retrograde scale is visually simpler; a bi-retrograde or triple-retrograde layout can present more information but may demand more attention.
  • Scale placement and dial legibility: Consider whether the arcs are clearly separated and whether their hands and markings can be distinguished at a glance. This is a design-based comparison, not a hands-on readability test.
  • Case and water-resistance details: Compare diameter, material and stated water resistance against how you intend to wear the watch. The guide does not provide every specification for every model, so unstated details should not be inferred.
  • Edition and price context: The cited euro prices include VAT; the Maurice Lacroix price is reported in Swiss francs. Treat all three as figures reported by Monochrome Watches in 2026, not guaranteed current offers. Confirm current pricing and stock with the brand or a seller.
  • Mechanical complexity versus ownership claims: A higher visible complication count does not, by itself, establish reliability, maintenance needs or service cost. The cited material does not support comparisons on those points.
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Other official examples of retrograde indications

The three-watch comparison is not the whole category. Patek Philippe’s official product page describes reference 6159G-001 as a perpetual calendar with a retrograde date hand and self-winding calibre 26-330 S QR. Patek Philippe reference 6159G-001

Vacheron Constantin’s official catalogue lists several current retrograde models: Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date, Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date, Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date and Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface. Catalogue listing does not establish local stock or a current transaction price. Vacheron Constantin collection

Rank #4
Seakors SE8004GW Tourbillon Master Bluesteel Seagull ST8004 Retrograde Date & Day Indicator Mechanical Mens Luxury Wrist Watch
  • Tourbillon
  • Retrograde DateDay
  • Weight Precision Balance Wheel
  • Blue steel screws
  • Exhibition Case Back Cover

Blancpain’s Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde combines retrograde minutes with a jumping hour and a flying tourbillon. These are distinct functions: the hour jumps, while the minute hand moves retrograde. The official page specifies a 42 mm red-gold case and 3-bar water resistance. Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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