The Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Ukiyo-e is an eight-piece limited edition pairing a hand-decorated Japanese lacquer dial with a slim, self-winding movement. Its 40 mm ethical yellow-gold case is 8.28 mm thick, and the watch is powered by Chopard’s L.U.C Calibre 96.41-L, which has a 65-hour power reserve.
What is the Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Ukiyo-e?
Reference 161986-0001 is a limited-edition L.U.C dress watch in 18-carat ethical yellow gold. Chopard combines the restrained proportions of its XP line with a Japanese Urushi lacquer dial decorated in a style connected to traditional maki-e. The edition is limited to eight pieces, according to Timekeepers Club’s October 12, 2025 model report.
The published specifications include central hours and minutes, a sapphire crystal, an exhibition caseback, and a hand-sewn blue alligator strap with ecru seams and bridle stitching. The pin buckle is also 18-carat ethical yellow gold. Timekeepers Club’s October 2025 report is the source for the model details and figures cited here.
What is the story behind its Japanese dial?
Hokusai’s Tago Bay
Timekeepers Club identifies the dial’s scene as Tago Bay, from Katsushika Hokusai’s series Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji. The article describes Mount Fuji as positioned in the upper part of the dial, away from the hands’ movement. That placement is the publication’s description of the composition.
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- Suitable for NH35/NH36/4R/6R watch movement
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- High precision machining, stable and reliable, with fine workmanship and exquisite appearance
- Reasonable design makes it easy and convenient to install and remove, and it is a wonderful replacement for broken or old one
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Urushi lacquer and maki-e
The dial is described as handcrafted in Japan by master artist Minori Koizumi, as part of Chopard’s collaboration with Yamada Heiando. Urushi is natural lacquer made from the sap of the lacquer tree, Rhus verniciflua. Maki-e is a decorative technique in which metal powder is applied to lacquer; for this dial, the article says gold powder is applied with bamboo tubes and rat-hair brushes.
The October 2025 article says Chopard and Yamada Heiando have collaborated since 2009. That establishes the reported start of the collaboration, not the production history or timeline of this specific dial.
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- Suitable for NH35/NH36/4R/6R Watch Movement Accessories
- Green luminous effect makes it glow at night or at the dark places.
- High precision machining, stable and reliable, with fine workmanship and exquisite appearance
- Reasonable design makes it easy and convenient to install and remove, and it is a wonderful replacement for broken or old one
- Multiple colors to choose to show your own personality and match your watch
What movement does it use?
The watch uses Chopard L.U.C Calibre 96.41-L, a self-winding movement that the publication describes as derived from the first calibre presented by Chopard’s workshops in 1996. Its off-centre 22-carat gold micro-rotor winds two barrels stacked using Chopard Twin technology.
- Power reserve: 65 hours, as published for this calibre.
- Thickness: 3.30 mm.
- Jewels: 29.
- Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz.
- Quality hallmark: Poinçon de Genève.
The movement architecture and slim case are the watch’s main technical counterpoint to its elaborate dial: an automatic calibre with a gold micro-rotor and twin-barrel arrangement sits inside a case measuring 8.28 mm thick.
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Case size and other specifications
| Specification | Published detail |
|---|---|
| Reference | 161986-0001 |
| Edition | Eight pieces |
| Case material | 18-carat ethical yellow gold |
| Case diameter | 40 mm |
| Case thickness | 8.28 mm |
| Water resistance | 30 metres listed |
| Display | Central hours and minutes |
| Crystal and back | Sapphire crystal; exhibition caseback |
| Strap and buckle | Hand-sewn blue alligator leather strap with ecru seams and bridle stitching; 18-carat ethical yellow-gold pin buckle |
The 30-metre water-resistance figure is the published specification; it does not by itself establish suitability for a particular water activity.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.How many were made, and what was the published price?
Chopard’s edition is limited to eight pieces. Timekeepers Club listed a manufacturer’s suggested retail price of EUR 40,700 in its October 12, 2025 article. This is a dated published MSRP, not a verified current retail price, resale value, or confirmation that the watch remains available.
Rank #4
- Suitable for NH 34/NH 35/NH36 watch movement
- Blue luminous effect makes it glow at night or at the dark places.
- High precision machining, stable and reliable, with fine workmanship and exquisite appearance
- Reasonable design makes it easy and convenient to install and remove, and it is a wonderful replacement for broken or old one
- Multiple colors to choose to show your own personality and match your watch
Chopard’s official international website provides collection and customer-service routes, but its presence does not establish current stock of reference 161986-0001. Availability and pricing should be confirmed with Chopard or a retailer in the relevant region.
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What makes this edition distinctive?
- Its dial interprets a scene attributed to Hokusai’s Tago Bay through Japanese Urushi lacquer and gold-powder maki-e decoration.
- The case is 40 mm wide but 8.28 mm thick, with 18-carat ethical yellow gold used for the case and buckle.
- Calibre 96.41-L combines a 22-carat gold micro-rotor, two stacked barrels, and a stated 65-hour reserve.
- Only eight pieces are reported, making the edition exceptionally limited; the cited publication-era price was EUR 40,700.
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
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