The Dreyfuss & Co. Series 1924 Calibre 39 is a limited-edition, hand-wound mechanical watch built around an Eterna movement and a prominent vintage aviator design. Its reported 44–45 mm case and 51 mm lug-to-lug span make wrist fit the first question for most buyers; its 65-hour power reserve and manual winding will appeal most to someone who actively wants a mechanical routine. Historical reviews leave several details unsettled—including jewel count, strap configuration and water resistance—so treat old specifications as starting points, not proof of a particular watch’s condition or paperwork.
What the Series 1924 Calibre 39 is
Dreyfuss & Co. introduced the Calibre 39 in 2016 as a limited-edition member of its Series 1924 collection. The launch report describes a hand-wound mechanical watch powered by an Eterna Calibre 39 movement and an announced production run of 250 pieces. WatchReport’s historical, search-indexed review identifies the movement more specifically as Eterna 3902M; its page was not directly available for verification, so that reference should be treated as a reported detail rather than a confirmed marking on every example. WatchPro’s May 2016 launch report and WatchReport’s indexed review are the sources for those claims.
The announced 250-piece run is a historical launch figure, not evidence of audited production, remaining stock or current rarity. In the 2016 launch report, then-Dreyfuss Group CEO Victoria Campbell described the model as a fit for the group’s Swiss-brand portfolio at that time; that statement reflects the company context in 2016, not necessarily its present structure.
Design and wrist fit
Aviator styling with substantial presence
The design is explicitly pilot- or aviator-inspired: a large dial, oversized Arabic numerals, luminous hands and markers, and a double-bezel treatment. The hands-on review describes a black enamel dial, brushed and polished steel case, and flat sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment. The launch report also calls the sapphire scratch resistant and double-coated for anti-reflection. These are historical descriptions; the condition of the crystal on a pre-owned watch depends on the individual example.
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Case measurements are not perfectly consistent. WatchPro and Le Petit Poussoir report a 45 mm diameter, while WatchReport’s indexed text says 44 mm. The hands-on review gives a 51 mm lug-to-lug length and 11.8 mm thickness; WatchReport lists 12 mm thickness. Both the French review and WatchReport report a 22 mm lug width.
| Specification | Reported detail | Qualification |
|---|---|---|
| Case diameter | 45 mm; 44 mm in WatchReport’s indexed review | Disagreement among historical sources |
| Lug-to-lug | 51 mm | Reported by Le Petit Poussoir |
| Thickness | 11.8 mm; 12 mm in WatchReport’s indexed review | Small source discrepancy |
| Lug width | 22 mm | Reported by Le Petit Poussoir and WatchReport’s indexed text |
| Movement | Hand-wound Eterna Calibre 39; 3902M in WatchReport’s indexed text | Specific reference is not independently confirmed here |
| Power reserve | 65 hours | Reported by WatchPro and Le Petit Poussoir |
| Jewels | 20; 29 in Le Petit Poussoir | Conflicting historical figures |
The diameter alone does not determine how the watch will sit. Le Petit Poussoir’s reviewer reported that the descending lugs made it wearable on a 16.5 cm wrist, but that is one person’s fit observation, not a promise for other wrist shapes. If possible, try the watch on; otherwise compare the 51 mm lug-to-lug measurement with a watch that already fits you comfortably.
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Strap details vary in the reports
The launch article describes a cut-away canvas strap. Le Petit Poussoir instead describes black crocodile-pattern leather, tapering from 22 mm at the lugs to 17.5 mm, secured with screw-fixed bars; WatchReport’s indexed text also mentions an alligator-embossed leather strap. The sources therefore do not establish one universal original strap configuration. A nominally 22 mm replacement strap may not fit the screw-fixed hardware, and taper, length and attachment details should be checked before buying one.
Movement, winding and everyday use
The Calibre 39 is hand-wound, so it is not a watch to choose if you want automatic winding from wrist movement. The reported 65-hour reserve means the watch can run for roughly that long after a full wind under the conditions represented by the historical specifications, but the available sources do not establish the reserve of any particular used example.
Rank #3
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Le Petit Poussoir’s reviewer noted small clicks while winding and said the seconds hand took a moment to begin moving. These are that reviewer’s observations, not a diagnostic standard. On a pre-owned mechanical watch, winding feel, timekeeping and service history matter more than whether another example behaved the same way in a past review. No current manufacturer service guidance or authorized service network is established by the cited material.
Water resistance: verify before exposure
Do not assume this model is safe for swimming based on the historical reviews. Le Petit Poussoir’s specification table lists 10 ATM/100 m, but the same article’s prose says the rating was not explicitly stated and infers it from the screw-down crown and a “Seafarer” marking. That conflict is not enough to establish a dependable rating. Check the original paperwork for the exact watch and its present condition, and have water resistance assessed if water exposure matters. A screw-down crown alone does not establish that an older watch remains water-resistant.
Rank #4
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Historical prices and buying an example today
The published prices are historical and refer to different markets: WatchReport’s indexed review gives a retail price of $1,450 USD, while Le Petit Poussoir lists a recommended retail price of €1,295 in its 2017 review. Neither is a current valuation or a guide to what a specific used watch should cost.
The sources establish the model’s launch-era identity, not current availability. They do not verify present stock, an active seller, warranty coverage, production totals beyond the announced run, or resale performance. Before purchasing, confirm the reference and movement markings, inspect the case and crystal, check which strap and attachment hardware are included, and request documentation and service records. If water resistance is important, require paperwork or a recent test for the individual watch rather than relying on the conflicting published rating.
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Who should consider it?
- A good fit: someone who likes a large vintage aviator dial, wants a hand-wound mechanical watch, and is comfortable confirming details on a discontinued or historically documented model.
- Think carefully: if your wrist is small, you prefer a slim or discreet watch, need dependable water-use specifications, or want easy strap swaps without checking the screw-fixed bars.
- Before paying: weigh the individual watch’s condition, documentation, fit and service history more heavily than an old launch quantity or historical retail figure.
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
