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First Look: Airain Type 21 and the Updated Type 20 Collection

Airain’s Type 21 brings a glossy black dial, vintage-toned lume and luminous bezel triangle to the Type 20 family, while retaining the same core AM2 flyback chronograph specification.
Estimate5–6 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team
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Airain’s Type 21 is a new visual interpretation of the Type 20 family, not a different complication: both current core models use a manually wound AM2 flyback chronograph. The Type 21’s glossy black dial, vintage-toned lume, signed crown and luminous bezel triangle distinguish it from the Type 20’s matte-black presentation. Airain currently lists each at €3,450; prices and stock status can change.

What’s new about the Airain Type 21?

Airain’s Type 21 combines a familiar pilot-style flyback chronograph layout with a dial and bezel treatment drawn from the brand’s account of a vintage Type 21. The contemporary watch is a modern interpretation, not an original military-issued watch. Airain says its design inspiration was a 1960s model discovered at a Sotheby’s auction in 2021; the brand also connects the Type 21 name to a 1956 French Ministry of Defence request to improve the Type 20’s durability and ease of maintenance. That history is Airain’s explanation of the design and naming, rather than independent archival verification of the military specification. Airain’s current Type 21 page gives the reference as 423.438.

Type 21 design details

The most visible change is the Type 21’s glossy black dial, replacing the Type 20’s matte black dial. The Type 21 adds “Old Radium”-style luminous treatment to its numerals and hands, a Type 21 dial signature, and Airain branding on the crown. Its bi-directional friction bezel has a 12-hour countdown scale and luminous triangle. The small-seconds display sits at 9 o’clock, opposite the 30-minute chronograph counter at 3. These distinctions are described in Monochrome Watches’ December 2023 launch coverage and reflected in Airain’s current product information.

Current Type 21 specifications

Airain lists a stainless-steel case measuring 39 mm across, or 39.5 mm at the bezel, with a 47.5 mm lug-to-lug length. Total height is 14.77 mm, or 10.85 mm excluding the domed sapphire crystal. The screwed caseback is solid, and the watch is rated to 50 m (5 ATM) water resistance. It comes on a brown leather strap with a signed double buckle. These are the current specifications on Airain’s Type 21 product page.

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How does the Airain Type 21 differ from the Type 20?

The core distinction is styling rather than function. In Monochrome’s December 2023 launch report, the two models are described as technically alike. Airain’s current pages likewise list the same movement family, principal case dimensions and water-resistance rating for both core watches.

Feature Type 20 Type 21
Dial Matte black, according to Airain’s current collection information and the Type 20 product page. Glossy black, according to Airain’s current product page.
Lume and markings Standard Type 20 presentation; launch coverage reports black lacquer on the bezel countdown markings. “Old Radium”-style luminous hands and numerals, Type 21 dial signature, signed crown and luminous bezel triangle, as described by Airain and Monochrome.
Movement and function AM2 manual-wind flyback chronograph; 63-hour power reserve, per Airain’s current Type 20 specifications. AM2 manual-wind column-wheel flyback chronograph; 63-hour power reserve, per Airain’s current Type 21 specifications.
Case and water resistance 39 mm case diameter (39.5 mm at the bezel), approximately 47.5 mm lug-to-lug and 50 m water resistance, per Airain’s current Type 20 page. 39 mm case diameter (39.5 mm at the bezel), 47.5 mm lug-to-lug and 50 m water resistance, per Airain’s current Type 21 page.
Current listed price €3,450 on Airain’s current collection listing. €3,450 on Airain’s current collection listing.

The table reflects the core Type 20 and Type 21 models, not every special edition in Airain’s wider Type 20 family. Current listed prices are a snapshot; consult Airain’s collection page for the latest model and price information.

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What changed in the updated Airain Type 20?

Airain’s 2023 Type 20 update brought more than a visual refresh. Monochrome reported that the collection moved from La Joux-Perret’s AM1 to Manufacture AMT’s AM2 after La Joux-Perret could no longer supply the required flyback configuration in its new movement series. The report describes the AM2 as retaining the same architecture and manual-wind flyback function while increasing the power reserve from 60 to 63 hours. This is the rationale reported at launch, not independently verified supplier commentary.

The update also made sapphire crystal standard, according to Monochrome. Airain’s current standard Type 20 page lists sapphire, the AM2 and a 63-hour reserve, consistent with the updated specification. The available launch and product information does not establish a serial-number or delivery cutoff for when every Type 20 switched movements, so buyers considering a particular watch should confirm its specification with the seller. See Airain’s current Type 20 product page for its listed configuration.

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What the two watches are like to wear and operate

Both are manually wound chronographs with a flyback function, not simple three-hand watches dressed in vintage styling. Airain specifies its AM2 as a manual-wind column-wheel flyback movement with 23 jewels, a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and a 63-hour power reserve. The flyback function allows the chronograph to be reset and restarted in one operation rather than requiring separate stop, reset and start actions. The Type 21’s current movement and case details appear on its product page.

The 39 mm case diameter is only one part of the fit: the 47.5 mm lug-to-lug span and 14.77 mm total height also matter, particularly for smaller wrists or cuffs. Airain’s stated 50 m (5 ATM) rating describes water resistance, but the product information does not specify a permitted activity or usage protocol. For care and use, follow Airain’s guidance rather than treating the rating alone as a guarantee for a particular water activity.

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Current prices and other Type 20 family models

At the time reflected by Airain’s current collection listings, the core Type 20 and Type 21 are each €3,450. The category page marked the Type 20 “Out of stock” at the time it was checked; this is a changeable inventory label, not a permanent statement about availability. Check Airain’s current Type 20/21 category page for live stock information.

Airain’s collection also lists several Type 20 variants. The prices below are the amounts shown on the current collection listing and may change:

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Model Listed price Edition note
Type 20 ACE €3,650 No edition limit stated on the cited collection listing.
Type 20 “Up in the Air” €3,650 No edition limit stated on the cited collection listing.
Type 20 70 Ans €3,850 No edition limit stated on the cited collection listing.
Type 20 Furtivité €3,650 Airain’s product page describes the DLC variant as limited to 134 pieces.

Prices are from Airain’s collection page; the Furtivité edition limit is stated on its product page.

Which one makes more sense?

Choose between the core models primarily on appearance and availability. The Type 20’s matte dial is the more restrained of the two presentations; the Type 21 makes its vintage inspiration more explicit through the glossy dial, warmer lume styling and luminous bezel triangle. Their current listed mechanical specifications and prices are closely matched, so neither model offers a functional advantage on the facts Airain currently publishes. For a specific purchase, verify the exact watch’s movement specification and current stock with Airain or the seller.

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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