The Louis Erard Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel pairs a regulator-style display with an ivory Grand Feu enamel dial. Its central minutes, separate hour and seconds displays, 39 mm steel case and limited run of 99 pieces define the proposition. The reference is 85248AA54.BVA153; the brand lists it at CHF 4,500 excluding tax.
What makes this a regulator?
Rather than placing all three hands on one central axis, the watch separates the time displays: hours sit in a subdial at 12 o’clock, seconds at 6 o’clock, and minutes are shown centrally against the peripheral track. The layout gives the minutes the visual lead and is the main functional distinction from a conventional three-hand watch. Monochrome Watches and Time and Watches describe the arrangement in their 2024 first-look coverage.
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JUNGHANS max Bill Regulator Watch | Stainless Steel | $3,060.00 | Buy on Amazon |
The enamel dial and its craft
Louis Erard says this is the first Grand Feu enamel dial on its emblematic Le Régulateur model. The brand attributes the slightly speckled ivory dial to Donzé Cadrans S.A. and specifies two-tone enamel transfers and blued-steel signature fir-tree hands. Louis Erard’s product page identifies the dial as traditional Grand Feu enamel.
In the traditional process, enamel is applied and fired in successive layers; Time and Watches explains that Grand Feu firing is generally done above 800°C, with repeated firing and finishing contributing to a smooth surface. That figure describes the method broadly, not a measured production record for this particular dial. The sources do not provide a named artisan’s account of how this dial was made.
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- Distinctive Dial Layout: The Junghans max bill Regulator features a distinctive dial design with a central minute hand, while the hour and second hands are decentralised.
- Automatic Movement: Powered by a self-winding automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve, ensuring reliable timekeeping without the need for a battery.
- Polished Stainless Steel Case: The watch comes in a polished stainless steel case with a diameter of 40mm. The case back is secured by four screws, enhancing durability and providing a secure fit.
- Anti-Reflective Sapphire Crystal: Equipped with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, the watch offers excellent clarity and scratch resistance, ensuring that the dial remains easy to read under various lighting conditions.
- Stainless Steel Milanaise Bracelet: The timepiece is paired with a stainless steel Milanaise bracelet, adding a touch of sophistication and comfort while maintaining the watch’s refined appearance.
Specifications
| Specification | Details |
|---|---|
| Reference | 85248AA54.BVA153, according to Louis Erard |
| Edition | 99 pieces, the edition size stated by Louis Erard; this is not a sales figure |
| Case | Polished stainless steel; 39 mm diameter per Louis Erard. The 2024 reports by Monochrome Watches and Time and Watches give 12.82 mm thickness and 45.9 mm lug-to-lug |
| Crystal and back | Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides; transparent caseback, per Louis Erard |
| Water resistance | 5 bar (50 m / 165 ft), per Louis Erard; this rating alone does not establish suitability for every water activity |
| Movement | Automatic Sellita SW266-1 regulator; approximately 38 hours of power reserve per Louis Erard. The 2024 reports give 4 Hz / 28,800 vibrations per hour and 31 jewels |
| Strap and buckle | Grey grained calf leather with tone-on-tone stitching and black calf lining; pin buckle, per Louis Erard. Monochrome Watches reports a 20 mm lug width |
| Warranty | Three years shown on Louis Erard’s product page; terms and geographic coverage should be confirmed with the brand |
| Listed price | CHF 4,500 excluding tax on Louis Erard’s product page as accessed in 2026; tax and final retail price depend on geography |
What the dimensions mean for wear
The 39 mm diameter offers a useful starting point, but diameter alone does not determine how a watch wears. The 2024 reports list a 45.9 mm lug-to-lug measurement and 12.82 mm thickness; those figures help frame wrist fit, though individual wrist shape and preference matter. The supplied grey leather strap is specified by the brand, while the 20 mm lug width is reported by Monochrome Watches. Confirm strap compatibility before buying a replacement.
Price, edition size and availability
Louis Erard lists the watch at CHF 4,500 excluding tax and states an edition of 99 pieces on its product page, accessed in 2026. Both are brand-published figures, not evidence of current stock or completed sales. The 2024 articles establish launch-era coverage, not present availability. No verified third-party inventory or resale-value data is established here, so check directly with Louis Erard or an authorized seller for current availability, applicable taxes and warranty terms.
Who should consider it?
This model is most distinctive for someone who wants a regulator layout and values the visual character of an ivory enamel dial. Before deciding, consider how readily you can read its separated hour, minute and seconds displays; whether the reported dimensions suit your wrist; and whether the listed CHF price, excluding tax, fits your budget. The available sources do not establish a comparative performance or value advantage over other watches.
Quick Recap
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
