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Fratello Editors’ Five-Watch Collections: Thomas Van Straaten’s Picks

Thomas Van Straaten’s 2024 Fratello five-watch collection spans a vintage Datejust, a well-worn Explorer II, a Speedmaster, a surprising Radiomir and his own VPC design.
Estimate4–5 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team
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Thomas Van Straaten’s five-watch collection, as he described it in Fratello on March 27, 2024, comprised a Rolex Datejust 1601, Rolex Explorer II 16570, Omega Speedmaster 145.022-69, Panerai Radiomir PAM00210, and VPC Type 37HW. His choices reflect professional milestones, personal taste, actual wrist time and, in the VPC’s case, his own work as a watch designer—not a ranking or a buying guide.

Van Straaten introduced the selection as the watches that formed the backbone of his collection at that time. The original account is his March 27, 2024 Fratello article; the experiences and judgments below are his, rather than independent assessments of the watches.

Thomas Van Straaten’s five watches

Watch What it represents in his collection
Rolex Datejust ref. 1601 A circa-1967 watch tied to a professional milestone and his book on vintage Datejusts.
Rolex Explorer II ref. 16570 The most-worn of the five in his 2024 account, after he overcame discomfort about wearing an expensive watch.
Omega Speedmaster ref. 145.022-69 His first higher-end watch purchase, and a model he periodically rediscovers despite wearing it less often.
Panerai Radiomir ref. PAM00210 A design-led choice that proved more wearable for him than he had expected.
VPC Type 37HW A watch he designed with Max Resnick, which became his main wrist-time choice after he received prototypes.

Why each watch made the collection

Rolex Datejust ref. 1601: a professional milestone

Van Straaten described his Datejust as dating to around 1967. While working at Amsterdam Watch Company, he wrote a book about vintage Rolex Datejusts and used his own 1601 as the cover model. He said the book’s first print of 1,000 copies sold out and that he did not plan another run, given the work of printing, storage and shipping. That is his account in 2024, not a confirmation of the book’s present availability.

Rolex Explorer II ref. 16570: the one he wore most

Of the five, the Explorer II had spent the most time on Van Straaten’s wrist when he wrote the article. He recalled buying it because he worried its price would rise. At first, he felt uneasy wearing a watch that expensive and considered selling it; after deciding to wear it, he grew to love it. That story describes his personal relationship with the watch, not a general finding about its price history.

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Omega Speedmaster ref. 145.022-69: a rediscovered first

Van Straaten called this his first higher-end watch purchase and described it as a “sweet-spot Speedy.” He pointed to its stepped dial, the absence of NASA or Moon references on the case back, and a tachymeter bezel misprint that he said reads “220” where “200” should appear. Those are his observations in the collection article, not an independent authentication of a specific example. He wore it less often because his tastes leaned toward simpler watches, but said he periodically rediscovered it.

Panerai Radiomir ref. PAM00210: a surprise in fit

Van Straaten bought the Radiomir because he admired its design, despite expecting it to see little wrist time: he generally preferred bracelets and smaller watches. He found an example from the early 2000s and had a beautiful strap made for it. He said the watch suited him and proved more wearable than expected. The article does not name the strap maker.

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VPC Type 37HW: wearing his own design

Van Straaten developed the Type 37HW with designer Max Resnick. He described the brief as an everyday watch with a high-end exterior and a simple workhorse caliber. After receiving prototypes, he said they took over his wrist time, particularly the Dove Grey version. He also described wearing a watch he had designed as a different kind of connection from the one he felt with his other watches.

There is an important distinction here: Van Straaten is the designer and has a direct personal interest in the VPC. His article said the model had launched on presale in March 2024; that historical statement does not establish current availability or order terms.

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The honorable mention: Grand Seiko SBGW231

Van Straaten also named the Grand Seiko SBGW231, but left it out of his five because he rarely wore it. He planned to give it to his son when he was older. Its omission reflects the personal logic of his list: a watch could matter to him without being one of the pieces he reached for regularly.

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What this five-watch collection says about its owner

The selection draws on several different kinds of attachment rather than five preset watch categories. The Datejust connects a watch to professional work; the Explorer II earned its place through frequent wear and a change in how comfortable Van Straaten felt wearing it; the Speedmaster carries the memory of a first major purchase. The Radiomir challenged his expectations about what would suit his habits, while the Type 37HW represents his own design work.

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Taken together, these are a snapshot of one collector’s choices in March 2024. Van Straaten closed his original article by asking readers to consider the five—or fewer—favorite watches in their own collections. His list suggests useful prompts for that exercise: which watches carry personal or professional meaning, which actually get worn, and whether one represents a change in taste or something you have made yourself.

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Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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