Fratello’s five picks are best read as a history-led editorial selection, not a ranking of the rarest, most collectible, or most valuable watches. Four choices represent historical importance; the fifth is the publication’s wildcard, with market price and collectability also considered. That framing explains why the list includes both early Zenith designs and a Rolex Daytona: the latter matters because of its El Primero-derived movement.
How to read Fratello’s top five
Jorg Weppelink’s Fratello list, published February 24, 2023, divides its choices between historical significance and one wildcard. As he puts it, “Four of these references will be based on the historical importance of the specific watch in the grand scheme of things.” The selections span the first generation of El Primero chronographs, a notable use of the movement by Rolex, a flyback version, and a modern Zenith model.
1. Zenith El Primero A386: the iconic original
Fratello identifies the A386 as the most iconic of the original trio. Its 38 mm round case and slim profile frame the signature overlapping blue, light-gray, and anthracite sub-dials, set off by a red central chronograph hand. The arrangement is among the clearest visual expressions of the early El Primero.
The original A386 used caliber 3019 PHC, a high-frequency automatic chronograph movement running at 36,000 vibrations per hour, with 31 jewels and a 50-hour power reserve. Fratello estimates that about 4,500 examples were made between 1969 and 1972; that figure is the article’s estimate, not a separately verified production ledger.
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2. Zenith El Primero A384: a sharper design statement
Where the A386 is rounded and defined by its three-color registers, the A384 takes a more angular route. Its 37 mm blocky case, silver panda dial with black sub-dials, black tachymeter ring, and distinctive Gay Frères ladder bracelet give it a more graphic, architectural appearance. The contrast between the two is chiefly one of design and feel, not an objective question of which is better.
Fratello also points to the A384’s influence on later designs and modern revivals. For a reader comparing the two early models, the practical distinction is straightforward: the A386 offers the round case and overlapping colored registers, while the A384 emphasizes sharper geometry and a panda-style dial.
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3. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 16520: the El Primero connection
The Daytona 16520 is the surprise on a list of Zenith references, but it is not being presented as a Zenith. Introduced in 1988, it was the first automatic Daytona and used Rolex caliber 4030, a Rolex-modified movement derived from the El Primero. Fratello treats Rolex’s adoption of that movement as a pivotal part of El Primero’s revival in the late 1980s.
Its place here is therefore about movement lineage and historical consequence: a Rolex watch whose engine connects it directly to Zenith’s chronograph story. Fratello’s article does not establish how many 16520 examples were produced.
Rank #3
- Zenith Chronomaster Revival El Primero Chronograph Automatic White Dial Men's Watch 03.A384.400/21.C815
4. Zenith El Primero Rainbow Flyback Chronograph ref. 02.0480.405: a flyback take
Introduced in 1997 after earlier Rainbow models appeared in 1992, the Rainbow Flyback adds a useful chronograph function to the El Primero family. Its caliber 405 is based on the standard caliber 400, with a flyback function that lets the wearer reset and restart timing in one operation rather than stopping, resetting, and starting separately.
The design makes the model easy to recognize: a colored minute counter, a red opening segment on the bezel, a red central seconds hand, and brushed finishing on the case and bracelet. Together, the flyback mechanism and aviation-oriented timing cues distinguish it from the early A386 and A384.
Rank #4
5. Zenith Chronomaster Sport: the modern wildcard
Fratello’s wildcard is the Chronomaster Sport, a 41 mm modern chronograph that draws on the A386’s tri-color dial cues while presenting the El Primero in a contemporary form. The article describes mixed first reactions to the watch, but considers its Zenith character more evident on the wrist. Its movement is the El Primero 3600.
Zenith’s 2024 official press material specifies that the 3600 runs at 5 Hz, or 36,000 vibrations per hour, indicates tenths of a second, and provides a 60-hour power reserve. The release described green-dial versions as available through Zenith boutiques and authorized retailers, and a gem-set version as exclusive to Zenith boutiques. Availability depends on the version and can change, so check Zenith’s current listing or contact a retailer for the specific model.
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- Model 03.2040.4061/23.C802
How the five choices compare
| Watch | Role in the list | Movement or function | Design and size | Era |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Zenith El Primero A386 | Iconic original-trio model | 3019 PHC; 36,000 vph, 31 jewels, 50-hour reserve | 38 mm round case; overlapping blue, light-gray, and anthracite registers | Original model produced 1969–1972, according to Fratello |
| Zenith El Primero A384 | Early design statement | Fratello’s article does not state movement specifications | 37 mm angular case; panda dial; Gay Frères ladder bracelet | Early El Primero generation |
| Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 16520 | Movement-lineage connection to Zenith | Rolex caliber 4030, modified from an El Primero-derived movement | Daytona design; dimensions not stated in Fratello’s article | Introduced in 1988 |
| Zenith Rainbow Flyback ref. 02.0480.405 | Flyback-function and aviation-oriented choice | Caliber 405; caliber 400 base with flyback function | Colored minute counter, red bezel segment and central seconds hand; brushed case and bracelet | Introduced in 1997; earlier Rainbow models date to 1992 |
| Zenith Chronomaster Sport | Fratello’s modern wildcard | El Primero 3600; 5 Hz, 1/10th-second indication, 60-hour reserve (Zenith, 2024) | 41 mm case; A386-inspired tri-color dial cues | Modern collection model; availability varies by version |
What this list does—and does not—rank
The five watches tell a story about El Primero’s design and reach: the A386 and A384 show two distinct early expressions, the Daytona demonstrates the movement’s importance beyond Zenith, the Rainbow adds flyback timing, and the Chronomaster Sport carries the lineage into a current product family. They are not ordered by investment potential or present-day market value. Fratello’s February 2023 article included vintage price estimates, but those are dated snapshots rather than current quotes or appraisals; any valuation depends on condition, originality, provenance, and service history.
Sources: Fratello’s 2023 Top 5 article; Zenith’s 2024 Chronomaster Sport press release.
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