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The Guinand HS109 is a limited-edition, 1960s-inspired skin-diver watch with a distinctive dial, an ETA 2824-2 automatic movement and a manufacturer-rated 30-bar water resistance. It was made in 109 individually numbered pieces as a tribute to Helmut Sinn. Guinand now lists it as archived and no longer produced, so this review explains what the published specifications say—and where they stop short of proving real-world performance.
What is the Guinand HS109?
Guinand presents the HS109 as a modern reinterpretation of a rare skin-diver design associated with its collaboration with Helmut Sinn. The company says that cooperation began in the 1960s and that many watches sold under Sinn’s name were manufactured by Guinand; that history is Guinand’s account. The HS109’s official video calls it the 2025 special model and links its 109-piece edition to Helmut Sinn’s 109th birthday.
Guinand describes the watch as “A tribute to the great sports watches of the 1960s – reinterpreted in a modern style and limited to 109 pieces.” The English model page details the design and specifications at Guinand’s HS109 product page; its historical framing also appears in the company-history material and official HS109 video.
Design: retro cues with distinctive dial furniture
The dial is satin-gloss black. Applied, oversized diamond-shaped markers at 12, 6 and 9 sit alongside dagger-style luminous indices, while arrow-shaped hands give the watch a look that stands apart from more conventional skin-diver layouts. The overall idea is vintage-inspired, but the hands and unusually prominent markers keep the design from reading as a straight historical replica.
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#1 Best Overall
- Round watch featuring corrugated unidirectional bezel, luminous hands/markers, and magnified date window at 3 o'clock
- 40 mm, Length: 210mm, 23k gold-plated stainless steel case with mineral dial window. Movement Caliber: NH35A
- Japanese automatic movement with analog display
- Gold & Stainless steel tone bracelet with foldover clasp with safety closure
- Water resistant to 200 m (660 ft): In general, suitable for professional marine activity and serious surface water sports, but not scuba diving.
Guinand specifies a hardened stainless-steel unidirectional rotating bezel with minute increments. Its product page refers to a classic retro insert and to modern S/M variants with luminous markings. Those descriptions should not be blended into a claim that every HS109 configuration has identical bezel markings. The same page specifies luminous hands and markers, but its text is inconsistent about the Super-LumiNova grade; the grade cannot be stated confidently from the published information.
Guinand HS109 specifications
| Specification | Guinand-published detail |
|---|---|
| Case | Stainless steel; finishes listed as polished, satin or matte |
| Diameter | 40.75 mm |
| Thickness | 12.4 mm |
| Lug-to-lug | 48.8 mm |
| Lug width | 20 mm |
| Movement | Automatic ETA 2824-2, gold-plated, Elaboré grade, 25 jewels |
| Functions | Date and stop seconds |
| Power reserve | Approximately 38 hours |
| Crystal | Double-domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides |
| Case back | Screwed back with a sapphire insert |
| Water resistance | 30 bar, as specified by Guinand |
| Strap | Tropic strap supplied; leather, rubber and stainless-steel straps described as optional |
These are manufacturer-published figures, not measurements from an independent inspection. The 30-bar rating is likewise Guinand’s stated rating, not a reported independent water-resistance test. A rating alone does not establish that a particular watch remains water-resistant today; condition and maintenance matter, especially for a pre-owned example.
Rank #2
- Stainless steel case 40mm diameter x 14mm thick; Exhibition case back; Black dial; Luminous hands and hour markers
- NH35A Japanese Automatic movement, 24 jewel; Assembled in Malaysia; Watch weight: 155 grams
- Stainless steel band, 210mm L x 20mm W; Band is adjustable by adding/removing links; Fold over safety clasp
- Mineral crystal; Screw-down crown; Diver stainless steel bezel with black top bezel ring; 200 meter water resistant: Suitable for professional marine activity and surface water sports. Suitable for diving.
Movement and everyday-use implications
Guinand specifies an ETA 2824-2 Elaboré automatic movement with 25 jewels, a date display, stop seconds and an approximate 38-hour power reserve. Stop seconds allow the seconds hand to halt when setting the time, while the date adds a practical daily function. The listed reserve is a manufacturer specification; no independent timing results or power-reserve test are available here.
That distinction matters in a review: the published movement and feature list can describe what the HS109 is designed to offer, but it cannot establish this individual model’s accuracy, winding feel, reliability or service condition. Nor is there independent hands-on evidence here to support claims about wrist comfort, underwater performance or how long the lume remains visible.
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Rank #3
- Invicta Pro Diver Automatic Champagne Dial Men's Watch 49317
How does the HS109 fit?
At 40.75 mm across, 12.4 mm thick and 48.8 mm lug-to-lug, the published dimensions give a useful starting point for assessing fit. Lug-to-lug length and wrist shape can affect how a watch sits as much as diameter does, so the numbers alone cannot guarantee comfort on a particular wrist.
Guinand says a Tropic strap is included and lists the lug width as 20 mm. A 20 mm replacement strap is therefore a sensible category to search for, but the width does not guarantee compatibility with every strap: check the strap’s lug and buckle widths, material and attachment style. Guinand also describes leather, rubber and stainless-steel alternatives as optional.
Rank #4
- Stainless steel case 42mm diameter x 14.2mm thick; Exhibition case back; Black dial; Luminous hands and hour markers
- NH35A Japanese Automatic movement, 24 jewel; Assembled in Malaysia; Watch weight: 142 grams
- Stainless steel band, 215mm L x 22mm W; Band is adjustable by adding/removing links; Fold over safety clasp
- Mineral crystal; Screw-down crown; Uni-directional stainless steel bezel with black and green top bezel ring; 200 meter water resistant: Suitable for professional marine activity and surface water sports. Suitable for diving.
Is the Guinand HS109 still available?
Guinand’s German HS109 page places the model in its archive and says it is no longer produced. That establishes discontinued production, not whether an authorized seller has remaining stock or whether a used example is currently listed. The page does not establish a current price or present-day availability; check directly with a seller before relying on either. See Guinand’s German archive/model page for its status wording.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.What this review can—and cannot—establish
The available model information supports a clear account of the HS109’s design, listed construction, movement, dimensions, water-resistance rating and limited-edition premise. It does not provide an independent hands-on assessment. There are no verified findings here on timekeeping accuracy, comfort, actual water resistance, lume duration, or the condition of a specific watch. Treat those as questions to verify for the individual example rather than qualities established by the specifications.
Quick Recap
Best Value
- Steel and gold tone stainless steel case 40mm diameter x 14mm thick; Exhibition case back; Black dial; Luminous hands and hour markers
- NH35A Japanese Automatic movement, 24 jewel; Assembled in Malaysia; Watch weight: 152 grams
- Steel and gold tone stainless steel band, 205mm L x 20mm W; Band is adjustable by adding/removing links; Fold over safety clasp
- Mineral crystal; Screw-down crown; Unidirectional stainless steel bezel with black top bezel ring; 200 meter water resistant: Suitable for professional marine activity and surface water sports. Suitable for diving.
- Automatic movement means that this timeless watch powers a quality Japanese-automatic movement with the simple movement of your arm.
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
