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Hands-On: Favre Leuba Deep Raider Revival vs. Renaissance

The 39 mm Revival puts vintage details first; the 40 mm Renaissance adds a modern dial, ceramic bezel, and display back. Here’s how the two 300-metre divers differ.
Estimate4–5 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team
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The Favre Leuba Deep Raider Revival and Renaissance are two distinct 2024 divers inspired by the brand’s 1964 Deep Blue/Deep Raider. Both are rated to 300 metres and share a 68-hour power reserve, but the 39 mm Revival leans into vintage character while the 40 mm Renaissance takes a cleaner, more contemporary approach. The choice is mainly about design and whether you want a display caseback—not a major difference in size or stated dive capability.

What separates the Revival from the Renaissance?

Favre Leuba introduced both watches in 2024 for the 60th anniversary of its 1964 diver. The brand presents the Revival as the faithful, heritage-focused option and the Renaissance as its modernized sibling. Its historical naming is not entirely consistent: the brand’s announcement refers to the original as the Deep Raider in places, while its blog and modern product copy also call it the Deep Blue. “1964 Deep Blue/Deep Raider” best captures that attribution without treating the names as definitively interchangeable.

Feature Deep Raider Revival Deep Raider Renaissance
Design direction Vintage-inspired, with distinctive dial details Cleaner, contemporary interpretation
Case 39 mm steel; 48 mm lug-to-lug and 13.24 mm thick, according to Fratello’s December 2025 hands-on comparison 40 mm steel; 48 mm lug-to-lug and 13.24 mm thick, according to Fratello’s December 2025 hands-on comparison
Dial Grey sunray with warm beige/eggshell lume; date at about 4:30 Gradient blue in the reviewed example, with sandwich construction and white/blue lume; date at about 4:30
Bezel Unidirectional countdown bezel with sapphire insert Unidirectional dive bezel with ceramic insert and conventional dive scale
Caseback Solid steel Sapphire display back
Movement FLD01, based on La Joux-Perret G100; 68-hour reserve FLD02, based on La Joux-Perret G100; 68-hour reserve, with decoration visible through the caseback
Bracelet or strap Five-row bracelet in Fratello’s review; also offered in 2026 collaboration editions on leather, textile, or rubber Three-row bracelet or rubber strap in Favre Leuba’s descriptions
Price reported by Fratello in December 2025 €2,600 €2,675 on bracelet; €2,575 on rubber

Specifications and prices can vary by reference and market. The prices above are dated figures from Fratello’s December 2025 comparison, not a claim about current local pricing.

How faithful is the Revival to the original?

The Revival keeps the original’s 39 mm diameter and grey-dial layout, including the unusual placement of its branding and depth rating. Favre Leuba says the modern watch replaces the historical acrylic crystal with sapphire and uses a sapphire bezel insert to retain the visual effect of the old Bakelite insert. The brand gives the original a 200-metre water-resistance rating; the modern Revival is rated to 300 metres.

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The Revival’s character comes from details rather than a strict reproduction. In Fratello’s review, Jorg Weppelink singled out the hyphenated brand name at 9 o’clock, the hourglass logo between 10 and 11, the depth rating beneath the 3 o’clock marker, and the elongated markers at the cardinal points. The Renaissance pares back that visual eccentricity in favor of a more contemporary look.

What do the watches share for diving?

Both modern models are specified for 300 metres of water resistance and have unidirectional bezels. Their stated 68-hour power reserve and shared La Joux-Perret G100 base also give them similar headline movement specifications. Those are manufacturer/product specifications reported by Favre Leuba and Fratello, not independent depth or power-reserve test results.

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For everyday ownership, the main functional distinction is the caseback: the Revival conceals its FLD01 behind solid steel, while the Renaissance’s sapphire back exposes its decorated FLD02. The supplied specifications do not establish a broader difference in timekeeping performance between the two executions.

What is the on-wrist experience like?

Weppelink reported that both watches fit his 18.5 cm wrist well and that he barely noticed the one-millimetre difference in case diameter. That is one reviewer’s experience, not a guarantee of fit on every wrist; the reported 48 mm lug-to-lug measurement is the more useful figure to compare against a watch you already wear.

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He found the Revival’s fully polished, faceted five-row bracelet comfortable and visually appealing, but said it showed fingerprints readily and was difficult to clean. He found the Renaissance bracelet less prone to showing fingerprints. Those are his specific observations rather than established defects or universal outcomes.

Which one should you choose?

  • Choose the Revival if the vintage dial layout, warmer lume, 39 mm case, and heritage emphasis are the draw. Its solid back also suits someone who would rather not pay for a visible movement presentation.
  • Choose the Renaissance if you prefer a gradient dial, ceramic bezel, more restrained styling, and a display caseback. It is only 1 mm larger in diameter than the Revival in the reported specifications.
  • Compare the exact configuration before deciding: bracelet and rubber options differ, and the reported prices vary by model and configuration. Check the relevant Favre Leuba listing or authorized seller for current regional price, reference details, and delivery.
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What are the 2026 Jean Rousseau editions?

On 12 September 2026, Hen & Mills reported a Favre Leuba collaboration with Paris strapmaker Jean Rousseau: three Deep Raider Revival variants pairing black calf leather, sand-brown Seaqual recycled textile, or beige rubber with matching details on the seconds hand, logo, and engraved caseback emblem. Each material edition is limited to 33 watches, or 99 across the three editions.

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Hen & Mills reported prices of CHF 2,250, £2,250, €2,600, or US$2,900 and indicated delivery for October 2026. Those are time-sensitive reported terms; current stock, regional pricing, and delivery should be confirmed with the official listing or seller.

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Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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