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Hands-On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC

The FB 3SPC brings its cylindrical balance spring and escapement into view. Here’s what distinguishes the original white-gold 3SPC.1 and how the collection has evolved.
Estimate4–5 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team
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The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC looks like a restrained time-only watch, but its dial is built to reveal the regulating organ that keeps it running. In Lex Stolk’s November 2022 hands-on report, the original white-gold FB 3SPC.1 measured 42.30 mm across and 9.43 mm thick; he found it sat well on his 18.5 cm wrist. Its defining feature is the cylindrical balance spring, visible alongside the escapement at 9 o’clock. These are reference-specific details and one writer’s wearing impression, not a claim that every later FB 3SPC looks or feels the same.

What makes the FB 3SPC distinctive?

The FB 3SPC is a hand-wound mechanical chronometer whose dial-side architecture puts parts of its regulating system on display. At 9 o’clock, the wearer can see the balance, pallet-lever, escape wheel and cylindrical balance spring. Six bridges frame the movement on the dial side; ten more are visible through the caseback. The mainplate sits at the movement’s heart.

That construction gives the watch its visual identity, but it also makes the indication of time feel secondary to the mechanics. Central hours and minutes are joined by small seconds at 6 o’clock and a power-reserve indicator at 2 o’clock. The display remains legible without hiding the mechanism that distinguishes the watch.

How the original FB 3SPC.1 is specified

The original FB 3SPC.1 pairs an 18-carat white-gold case with an eggshell-coloured dial and movement components in 2N pale yellow gold. Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud lists a 42.30 mm diameter, 9.43 mm thickness and 30 m water resistance for this reference.

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Specification FB 3SPC.1
Case 18-carat white gold
Dial Eggshell-coloured
Movement components 2N pale yellow gold
Diameter 42.30 mm
Thickness 9.43 mm
Water resistance 30 m
Calibre Hand-wound FB-SPC
Components and jewels 230 components; 47 jewels
Frequency 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve 72 hours
Certification COSC chronometer-certified, as stated by the maker

The figures in the table are the maker’s specifications for the FB 3SPC.1, not a guarantee about every reference in the broader collection. The movement’s cylindrical spring is central to the concept: its form and position make it visible as part of the regulating organ rather than an unseen component.

How it wears: one reviewer’s impression

Lex Stolk’s November 2022 Fratello hands-on report gives a useful but deliberately limited point of reference for wearability. He reported the same 42.3 × 9.43 mm dimensions and said the watch sat well on his 18.5 cm wrist. That is one wearer’s impression at the Watches and Wonders 2022 presentation, not a fit prediction for every wrist or a new independent test.

Rank #2
Tookie Mechanical Stop Watch, SXJ504 Handheld Sports Chronograph Alarm Mechanical Stopwatch Running Timer, for Sports Referee Running Cycling Count Timer
  • The watch machine adopts stainless steel spring, single metal light balance wheel, nickel base alloy hairspring and kelleg vertical mechanism.
  • One button function, starts, stops and returns to zero by consecutive crown depressions.Durable, dust, water, shock and corrosion resistant.
  • Useful for rest in exercise; Metronome funcion, Grasp all the rhythms in the sports, useful for Fitness gymnastics.
  • The movement is equipped with 13 gems ,The watch machine can be used at -10°C~+40°C
  • Durable, dust, water, shock. Resolution ratio(1/10s), Size about 50 x 68 x 16mm.

Stolk also characterized the launch-era price as CHF 140,000. That is a historical figure reported in 2022, not a current quote; price and availability can change, so a current inquiry should go to the maker or a specialist retailer.

What changed after the launch-era watch?

The FB 3SPC name now covers variants beyond the original white-gold 3SPC.1. The maker’s March 21, 2025 tenth-anniversary announcement introduced platinum versions with pink and black PVD-treated movement executions in 20-piece limited series, as well as diamond-set editions produced in five pieces. The announcement also says the FB 3SPC collection received the GPHG 2023 Chronometry prize and describes the movements as COSC-certified; these are the maker’s statements.

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Rank #3
Tfa Mechanical Stopwatch 38.1022
  • Start/ stop trigger with winding button
  • Manual winding
  • Measuring range up to 30 minutes

A current maker product page, accessed October 7, 2026, also lists the FB 3SPC.4-1. It uses a black ceramised titanium case and black fabric strap while retaining the 42.30 mm diameter, 9.43 mm thickness, 30 m water resistance and core FB-SPC calibre specifications: hand-wound operation, 3 Hz frequency, 72-hour reserve and COSC certification.

Reference or group Case and movement presentation What is stated about the edition
FB 3SPC.1 18-carat white gold case; eggshell-coloured dial; 2N pale yellow gold movement components Reference-specific specifications listed by the maker
2025 platinum variants Platinum cases; pink or black PVD-treated movement executions, plus diamond-set editions 20 pieces for the described pink and black PVD-treated versions; five pieces for the described diamond-set editions, according to the maker’s 2025 announcement
FB 3SPC.4-1 Black ceramised titanium case; black fabric strap Listed on the maker’s product page accessed October 7, 2026

The maker’s 2025 announcement says the FB 3SPC can be equipped on request with a new 18 mm folding clasp with fine adjustment in specified precious-metal versions. This is a model-specific option, not evidence that an arbitrary 18 mm strap or clasp will fit every reference.

Rank #4
Tudor Pelagos LHD (Left Hand Drive Edition) Men's Diving Swiss Watch M25610TNL-0001
  • Date Feature at 3 O'Clock with Even Numbered Days Displayed in Red and Odd Numbered Days in Black
  • Tudor Caliber MT5612-LHD (COSC), Self-winding Automatic Chronometer Movement
  • Titanium Screw Down Crown, Helium Escape Valve at 3 O'Clock and 70 Hour Power Reserve
  • Titanium Bracelet with Steel Folding Clasp and Safety Catch and Bracelet Extension System
  • Titanium Unidirectional Rotatable Bezel with Ceramic Matte Black Disc and 60 Minute Scale with Beige Luminescent Coating

Why the historical reference matters

The collection’s styling and technical inspiration traces to Louis Berthoud’s No. 26 decimal watch, made in 1793 and held in the company’s heritage collection in Fleurier. That connection provides historical context, not a claim that the modern wristwatch is a replica. Stolk’s own concluding description captures the balance between heritage and present-day design: “The FB3 is, first and foremost, a contemporary watch.”

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Production figures and what they mean

Production claims depend on source and date. Stolk’s 2022 article reported that 25 FB3 watches would be produced annually at launch and linked the constraint to hand-forming the spring. In 2025, the maker said it produces and adjusts around 30 chronometer-certified movements of this type each year. The statements use different wording and come from different years; neither should be treated as a single timeless production rate.

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Quick Recap

SaleBestseller No. 1
Bestseller No. 2
Tookie Mechanical Stop Watch, SXJ504 Handheld Sports Chronograph Alarm Mechanical Stopwatch Running Timer, for Sports Referee Running Cycling Count Timer
Tookie Mechanical Stop Watch, SXJ504 Handheld Sports Chronograph Alarm Mechanical Stopwatch Running Timer, for Sports Referee Running Cycling Count Timer
The movement is equipped with 13 gems ,The watch machine can be used at -10°C~+40°C; Durable, dust, water, shock. Resolution ratio(1/10s), Size about 50 x 68 x 16mm.
$49.43
Bestseller No. 3
Tfa Mechanical Stopwatch 38.1022
Tfa Mechanical Stopwatch 38.1022
Start/ stop trigger with winding button; Manual winding; Measuring range up to 30 minutes
$67.19
Bestseller No. 4
Tudor Pelagos LHD (Left Hand Drive Edition) Men's Diving Swiss Watch M25610TNL-0001
Tudor Pelagos LHD (Left Hand Drive Edition) Men's Diving Swiss Watch M25610TNL-0001
Tudor Caliber MT5612-LHD (COSC), Self-winding Automatic Chronometer Movement; Titanium Screw Down Crown, Helium Escape Valve at 3 O'Clock and 70 Hour Power Reserve
$5,380.00
Best Value
Stop Watch Analog, Stainless Steel Mechanical Handheld Timer with Pause, for Running Training Experiments
  • Pause & Reset Function: Equipped with a pause mechanism, this stopwatch allows you to temporarily halt timing without losing track, and easily reset for the next session. Measuring range extends up to 30 minutes, accommodating a variety of events.
  • Large Dial Display: The clear, easy-to-read dial allows users to track time quickly and accurately. The bold markings and smooth sweep hand make it simple to measure each lap and overall duration.
  • Stable Stainless Steel Construction: Crafted with sturdy stainless steel, the stopwatch is resistant to wear and corrosion, making it suitable for frequent use in sports fields, laboratories, or training environments.
  • Precision Timing: This stainless steel mechanical stopwatch is highly accurate analog measurement, perfect for timing activities down to 0.2 seconds per lap. Ideal for sports, training, and experiments.
  • Versatile Use: Perfect for runners, athletes, coaches, educators, and experimenters. Whether timing laps, experiments, or workout sessions, this handheld timer provides reliable performance for professional and personal applications.

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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