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This account is built from Breguet’s published specifications, the brand’s explanations of its design choices, and editorial hands-on coverage from Hodinkee and Fratello. It does not rest on personal wear time with the watch, and brand claims are attributed as brand claims throughout.
What changed with the fourth generation
Breguet says its current collection took four years to prepare and launched in June 2023 in two related families: the military-inspired Type 20 and the civilian Type XX. This article uses the steel Type XX Chronographe 2067 from that launch as its central reference. Where the gold 2067 of 2024 or the military Type 20 2057 comes up, it is discussed separately.
Type 20 and Type XX: one lineage, two layouts
The naming is deliberate. Breguet’s collection pages use Arabic numerals for the Type 20, which it describes as the military-inspired version, and Roman numerals for the Type XX, the civilian version. The two share an aviation origin but not the same register arrangement.
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| Point of comparison | Type 20 (Arabic numerals) | Type XX (Roman numerals) |
|---|---|---|
| Breguet’s description | Military-inspired version | Civilian version |
| Reference discussed here | 2057, which Breguet describes as inspired by 1,100 watches delivered to the French Air Force from 1955 to 1959 | 2067 steel from the June 2023 launch |
| Totalizer layout | Breguet describes a 30-minute totalizer | 15-minute counter at 3 o’clock and 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock |
| Dial treatment | Not stated for the 2057 in Breguet’s collection material | Launch steel 2067 has a black dial |
| Case size | Not stated for the 2057 in Breguet’s collection material | 42 mm |
If you are comparing the two families, the register layout is the clearest dividing line. The military-inspired version and the civilian version are siblings, not interchangeable variants of one watch.
The aviation origin in brief
Breguet’s collection history links the watch to early-1950s aviation requirements. The brand says it developed an instrument watch from 1952 after a French Air Force tender, and it ties the aviation family to Louis Breguet’s aircraft and to the pilots who flew them.
Swatch Group’s 2023 archive summarizes the period requirements as a black dial with luminous numerals and hands, a movement designed to resist pressure and acceleration changes, a rotating bezel, and a flyback function. This is historical material published by the manufacturer group, not an independently verified tender document, and it should be read that way.
Specifications of the 2023 steel Type XX 2067
The figures below come from Breguet’s listing for the steel 2067. They describe the model as specified by the brand, not as independently measured results.
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| Specification | Breguet’s listed value |
|---|---|
| Case diameter | 42 mm |
| Case thickness | 14.1 mm |
| Movement | Automatic calibre 728 |
| Frequency | 5 Hz |
| Power reserve | 60 hours |
| Water resistance | 10 bar (100 m) |
| Components | 350 |
| Functions | Flyback chronograph, date, small seconds, 15-minute and 12-hour totalizers |
| Straps supplied | Two interchangeable straps: calfskin and NATO fabric |
| Launch dial (steel) | Black |
Breguet says the counters are sized differently on purpose, to give the dial more dynamic legibility. The 15-minute counter at 3 o’clock and the 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock are the defining feature of the civilian layout, with running seconds at 9 o’clock.
How the flyback works in practice
The flyback is the clearest functional link to the aviation original. Breguet explains that pressing the lower pusher returns the chronograph hand to zero and restarts it immediately. The difference is easiest to see by comparing the sequences.
Flyback operation
- Start the chronograph with the upper pusher.
- To time the next interval, press the lower pusher once while the chronograph runs.
- The hand returns to zero and begins counting again in the same action.
Without a flyback
- Press the upper pusher to stop the chronograph.
- Press the lower pusher to reset the hand to zero.
- Press the upper pusher again to restart timing.
The function is useful for timing successive intervals in one motion. Breguet presents it as part of the aviation heritage; nothing here establishes that pilots need it today.
Calibre 728 and the brand’s design claims
Breguet describes calibre 728 as developed and finalized within its own Manufacture. The brand’s stated design choices include:
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- A flyback mechanism.
- A vertical clutch, which Breguet selected for starting precision.
- A cross-through bridge that secures the balance against shocks.
- A high-energy-density mainspring that enables the stated 60-hour power reserve.
These are Breguet’s explanations of its engineering, not independent laboratory findings. Readers who want third-party measurements of rate, amplitude or reserve will not find them in the sources behind this article.
The calendar and the question of exact replication
The 2023 model includes a date window, a choice that sets it apart from a strict reproduction of an aviation original. Hodinkee’s June 10, 2023 hands-on review and interview with Breguet CEO Lionel a Marca addresses the decision directly. In the interview, a Marca said: “If I hadn’t included the calendar, some would’ve asked for one. You can never make everyone happy.” He added: “We are living now in the 21st century, and given the current trends, a watch that doesn’t feature a calendar wouldn’t really be appreciated by the clients. So it’s almost a necessity today. But if I wanted to do an exact replica of the original watch, it also wouldn’t have been an automatic, it would have been manual.”
That answer is the CEO’s rationale, not a survey of customer preference. It is still a useful statement of intent: the brand chose contemporary wearability and an automatic movement over a literal copy.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.What “returns to its roots” does and does not cover
The phrase is supported by specific references rather than by a claim of replication.
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- Breguet caliber 777A
- Approximate power reserve of 55 hours.
- Covered: the flyback function associated with the aviation chronograph; the civilian three-counter layout, with the 15-minute counter at 3 o’clock and the 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock; register conventions Breguet describes as historic; and design cues that Breguet says draw on first-generation designs.
- Not established: that the 2023 model reproduces a period case, movement, winding system or dial exactly. The brand’s own framing is adaptation to contemporary wear, and the calendar and automatic winding are the clearest departures from the original concept.
The 2024 gold 2067: what changes
Breguet’s later gold 2067 extends the same design. The brand points to rare gold Type XX watches from 1955 and to contrasting bezels on second-generation watches of the 1970s as references for that version. Do not blend the variants: the steel launch model has a black dial, while the gold version has a blue sunburst dial and a ceramic bezel ring.
Fratello’s September 16, 2024 hands-on review covers the 18K rose-gold 2067. It reports a 42 mm width, 14.1 mm thickness, a blue dial with a ceramic bezel insert, interchangeable leather and NATO straps, and calibre 728. The reported price at publication was CHF 35,000 including VAT. That figure is a single, dated and currency-specific report from 2024; prices vary by market and change over time, so check current pricing with an authorized retailer or Breguet directly.
Straps and fit
The steel 2067 ships with two interchangeable straps, calfskin and NATO fabric. Breguet’s product listing for the 2067 gives a 21 mm lug width. That is the figure to check before buying any replacement strap, along with the attachment type and the exact reference. A strap labelled NATO or 21 mm is not officially approved by Breguet and is not guaranteed to fit every Type XX, so confirm width and fit against your specific model.
Choosing between the options
The right choice depends on which of these axes matters most to you:
- Type 20 or Type XX: the military-inspired Type 20 uses a 30-minute totalizer in Breguet’s description; the civilian Type XX uses the 15-minute and 12-hour counters with the dial layout described above. Pick the layout you want to read every day.
- Steel or gold: the 2023 steel 2067 has a black launch dial and is the reference for this article. The 2024 gold 2067 has a blue sunburst dial, a ceramic bezel ring and a much higher reported price.
- Strap plan: the steel model includes calfskin and NATO straps out of the box. If you expect to change straps often, confirm the 21 mm lug width before you buy.
Breguet directs owners with service questions to its customer service team, which is the appropriate route for performance and maintenance questions on any model.
Quick Recap
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