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The Rolex Perpetual 1908 was a new, slim dress-watch line in 2023, but its design had clear precedents: Fratello’s hands-on writer saw continuity with the Cellini, while Rolex describes the current 1908 as a tribute to the Oyster Perpetual watches of 1931. The original report covered yellow- and white-gold models; the present family has since expanded, including a Settimo bracelet introduced in 2025. Here’s what that launch-era wrist report establishes—and what has changed since.
What the 2023 hands-on report covered
Fratello Watches’ Daan de Groot tried the 1908 in April 2023, covering references 52508 in yellow gold and 52509 in white gold. Those reference numbers, configurations and prices below describe the launch-era report, not a complete current catalogue.
The reported configuration paired a 39 mm case with a 9.5 mm thickness and 20 mm lug spacing. It had a black or white dial, an alligator strap with a gold double-folding clasp, a sapphire crystal and transparent sapphire case back, and 50 m water resistance. The automatic Rolex calibre 7140 was reported with 38 jewels, a 28,800-vph (4 Hz) frequency and a 66-hour power reserve. Its display was hours, minutes and small seconds. These are specifications as reported by Fratello in 2023; Rolex’s current listing confirms the family and configurations but is not the source for all of these launch specifications. Read Fratello’s 2023 hands-on report.
How the 1908 looks—and what “almost all-new” means
Rolex describes the 1908’s design as an homage to the first Oyster Perpetual watches. The dial’s 3, 9 and 12 numerals and small seconds at six reinterpret the style of the 1931 models. Rolex identifies the hour hand as Breguet-style and the minute hand as sword-shaped; the bezel is domed and fluted, and the case back is transparent sapphire. Rolex’s 1908 features page gives the brand’s design account.
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- Pre-Loved Condition: Excellent; Faint scratching to back of case
- 26mm
- Made in Switzerland
- Oysterclasp Closure
- Signature upon delivery required
“All-new” is therefore relative. De Groot compared the case’s look with the discontinued Cellini Time and noted that the 1908 was thinner. That is the reviewer’s comparison, not Rolex’s stated design lineage. Rolex’s own description instead connects the watch to its 1931 Oyster Perpetual history.
How did the Rolex 1908 wear on a smaller wrist?
De Groot reported that the 39 mm watch felt a little large on his 17 cm (6.7 in) wrist, though its short lugs helped it wrap around his wrist. That is one wearer’s impression, not a universal fit assessment: wrist shape, preferred proportions and strap adjustment all affect how a watch sits.
Rank #2
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He liked the matte black dial and the new butterfly clasp, while finding the hands too large and bold for the dressier design. He found the white dial more reflective, describing its appearance as silvery. These are his opinions from a 2023 encounter, not controlled fit testing or a current independent review.
What has changed in the current 1908 family?
The current official Rolex family page includes 39 mm models in 18 ct yellow gold, 18 ct white gold and platinum. The 2023 report’s two gold references and alligator-strap options should not be read as a description of every current configuration. See Rolex’s current 1908 family page.
Rank #3
- Mens Wrist Watch: Features a classic big dial and quartz movement with stable quality. High hardness coated glass mirror is wear-resistant, scratch-proof, Butterfly double buckle ensures comfortable wear
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The Settimo bracelet
Rolex says the Settimo bracelet was introduced on the 1908 in 2025. Its feature description calls it a seven-link bracelet, created exclusively for the 1908 in 18 ct yellow gold. Rolex also describes the Dualclasp as being made for the 1908 leather strap. The bracelet is a later addition to the line, not part of the strap-only 2023 configurations described by Fratello. Rolex’s feature page describes the Settimo and Dualclasp.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.What did the 1908 cost?
Prices depend on market, configuration and date. Fratello listed CHF 21,000 for reference 52508 and CHF 22,200 for reference 52509 in its April 2023 article. Those are historical launch-era prices, not current Swiss or worldwide quotes.
Rank #4
- 【GREAT REPLACEMENT】 Fits most 20mm watches，For SEIKO,TUDOR,OMEGA & SEIKO, etc.Great replacement for models such as Rolex Rubber Series Submariner GMT Explorer&OYSTERPERTUAL, etc
- 【Compatible Watches】: 20mm Replacement for Rolex watch band, fits Rolex Submariner, Yacht-Master 40mm, Daytona, Submariner 40mm, GMT-Master 40mm, Sea Dweller 40mm, Air-King 40mm, datejust 36mm, Day-Date 36mm/40mm, Cellini 39, Explorer 39mm/40mm, Milgauss 40mm, Oyster Perpetual 39mm,1908, does not fit Sky Dweller.
- 【Fitting wrist】Band Width：20mm ，Short Band：65mm/2.65" Long Band：80mm/3.15" ，can fit for wrist 7.2" to 9.1" approx*Note: The Long Band length can be cut to a minimum of 2.16
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- 【Shopping Guarantee】： You will get rubber watch band*1 +2 pieces spring bars + 1 remover(screwdriver for removing the clasp，Recommended to use original spring bars), you can remove or install watch straps easily.If you have questions about the suitability of your watch, you can contact us to confirm. Any questions when you get bands please kindly contact us directly, we will reply to you within 24 hours.
On Rolex’s Netherlands model listing, observed on October 7, 2026, listed prices included €28,300 for yellow-gold versions, €29,600 for white-gold versions, €32,900 for one platinum version and €40,100 for a yellow-gold listing. The extracted page does not establish all configuration differences behind the separate listings, so the figures should not be used to infer why one costs more than another. Prices are regional and can change; check Rolex’s live page for the market and configuration you are considering. Rolex Netherlands’ 1908 listings.
Quick Recap
What to weigh before choosing one
- Fit: The case is 39 mm across and was 9.5 mm thick in Fratello’s 2023 specification report. Its author found the short lugs helpful, but the size felt large to him on a 17 cm wrist.
- Material and price: The current family page includes yellow gold, white gold and platinum. Compare the live price for the exact reference and market rather than carrying forward 2023 CHF figures.
- Strap or bracelet: The 2023 report covers alligator straps; the Settimo bracelet, introduced in 2025, is a yellow-gold option exclusive to the 1908, according to Rolex.
- Dial and hands: Rolex’s design uses Breguet-style hour and sword-shaped minute hands. De Groot preferred the matte black dial and considered the hands bold; those preferences are subjective.
- Case back: The reported launch watch had a transparent sapphire back, useful if seeing the movement matters to you.
- Water resistance: Fratello reported 50 m for the 2023 watches. Confirm the specification for the exact current configuration with Rolex before relying on it.
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
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