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A short back and sides is a haircut framework, not one fixed look. The French crop, quiff, textured style, modern fauxhawk and side part differ in top length, direction, texture and polish. Choose the shape that suits how you want your hair to sit, then tell your barber how short to cut the sides and what length to preserve on top.
Compare the five short back and sides styles
| Style | Top and direction | Finish and effort |
|---|---|---|
| French crop | Short, textured top worn forward; the fringe may be neat or left longer. | Usually low effort; matte and natural or glossier. |
| Quiff | Keep length at the front to lift hair up and away from the face; a shorter crown can emphasize the shape. | Needs more deliberate styling and volume. |
| Textured and undone | Rough, piecey texture on top, balanced against the sides. | Relaxed finish with little styling effort. |
| Modern fauxhawk | Front and middle section longer than the sides, directed toward the centre. | Can look neat or messy; avoid a stiff, uniform finish. |
| Side part | Hair follows its natural direction from the front hairline, with a distinct or subtle part. | Can be polished or lower-shine and neat. |
The suggestions below follow the guidance in FashionBeans’ guide to short back and sides styles. Treat face-shape advice as styling guidance, not a rule: your hair’s growth direction and density also affect the result.
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1. French crop: short and forward
Ask for very short sides and a choppy top worn forward. FashionBeans describes the top as roughly a couple of inches at most, with a fringe that can be short and tidy or left long enough to wear forward. It is a practical option if you want a cut that does not depend on building height or shaping a part.
For a rounder face, the guide suggests sharper sides and some height on top; for a longer face, it suggests leaving the sides relatively longer and keeping the top flatter. These are options to discuss with your barber, not universal prescriptions.
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How to style it
Work product through damp or dry hair. Matte paste gives a dry, natural finish that brings out texture; pomade or grooming cream makes the result glossier. Charlie Cullen, international artistic director at Toni & Guy, describes the styling as minimal because the hair is short, worn forward and not fussy.
2. Quiff: lift the front
A quiff depends on having enough length at the front to lift the hair up and away from your face. If the front is too long, it may flop rather than hold its shape. A shorter crown can make the front’s volume more noticeable, while tighter sides and a longer top create stronger contrast.
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How to style it
- Apply thickening tonic to wet hair.
- Use a small vent brush and a hair dryer to lift and stretch the roots, building roundness and volume at the fringe.
- Finish with soft wax to relax the shape rather than making it rigid.
3. Textured and undone: keep the finish relaxed
This style relies on rough texture rather than a sharply defined shape. Ask your barber to balance the top and sides for your hair’s thickness. On fine hair, very short sides may expose more scalp; the FashionBeans guide suggests point cutting or razor cutting the top to create a rougher texture.
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Scrunch sea salt spray through the hair and leave it to dry naturally, or use a hair dryer. The aim is a relaxed result, so avoid forcing every section into place.
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4. Modern fauxhawk: direct the centre upward
Keep the front and middle longer than the rest, but only by a few inches, and direct the hair toward the centre. Tighter sides create more contrast; sides kept closer to an even length make the central ridge less pronounced. The finish can be tidy or deliberately messier.
How to style it
Use a deconstructor or texture paste to guide the hair inward. Work for separation and direction rather than a uniform, glued-together strip.
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5. Side part: work with your natural growth
A side part looks most natural when it follows the direction your hair already moves at the front hairline. Cullen advises working with that growth pattern rather than against it. Decide with your barber whether you want a soft part or a hard part shaved into the hair; tighter tapered sides make the part look sharper.
How to style it
Use wax for a glossier finish, or defining paste for a neat look with less shine. If you have a round face and want more height, the guide suggests blow-drying in volume rather than making the part very flat and slick.
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What to tell your barber
A style name alone can leave room for different interpretations. Bring a visual example and describe the details that determine the silhouette. British GQ’s guide, drawing on London barber TJ Hunt of Ruffians, recommends deciding whether the sides should be cut with clippers or scissors and discussing how the blend connects to the top.
- Show the reference image and say which parts of the look you want to keep.
- Explain how short you want the sides and how much contrast you want between them and the top.
- Specify how much length to preserve at the front and crown, and which direction you want the top to sit.
- For a side part, say whether you want it subtle, distinct or shaved in.
- Discuss the blend, how high the sides connect into the top, the neckline taper and the edge finish.
- Ask the barber to adapt the cut to your growth pattern and density.
A graduated blend gets shorter around the ears and neckline and transitions toward longer hair above. For a fuller explanation of the consultation, see British GQ’s guide to getting a short back and sides.
Quick Recap
Choose by the result you want
- For a short top worn forward and minimal styling, consider the French crop.
- For height at the front, choose a quiff and keep enough length there to lift it.
- For a relaxed, piecey finish, ask for textured and undone shaping suited to your hair’s density.
- For a central ridge, choose a modern fauxhawk and decide how much contrast you want at the sides.
- For a directional, polished shape, choose a side part that follows your natural growth.
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