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Repair common Windows errors and clear accumulated junk for a smoother, more stable PC - no reinstall needed.Free scan · no reinstallAnglage is the shaped, finished bevel along the edge of a watch component, usually cut at roughly 45 degrees and often polished to a mirror shine. It is a way of finishing an edge, not a decoration laid across a surface, and a polished bevel on its own does not tell you whether a watch was finished by hand or how well it keeps time.
What is anglage in a watch?
Anglage, also called bevelling or chamfering, is the formation and finishing of an inclined surface where a component’s face meets its side. On a movement, that bevel frames a bridge or plate and catches light differently from the flatter surface beside it. Breguet, in its description of the technique, gives two purposes: cleaning up the edge and creating a visible contrast between the bevel and the surrounding surface.
The angle is commonly around 45 degrees. Treat that as a usual description rather than a pass or fail measure. A bevel that is steeper or shallower is not automatically wrong, and the number alone does not establish the quality of the work.
What does anglage look like?
Anglage is best recognised by its geometry. Look for a narrow, inclined band running along the edge of a part, distinct from the flat face on one side and the side wall on the other. A finished bevel usually has a bright, mirror-like surface, while the adjoining faces may be satin-finished or otherwise decorated.
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Inspection cues
- Consistent width: the bevel should keep an even width along straight runs and through curves.
- Regular surface: the polished band should be free of wavy reflections, scratches, and leftover file marks.
- Clean terminations: the bevel should stop crisply at the ends of an edge and around features such as screw holes or screw-head seats.
- Inward corners: a well-executed inward corner shows a single, clear meeting line where two bevels join. Horlogerie Suisse, in a 2022 technical article, calls these corners especially difficult to execute, and says that machines did not produce that corner form at the time of writing.
Inspection is limited by lighting, viewing angle, and access. Through a caseback, you may see only part of a bridge at a shallow angle, so judge the consistency of a bevel across several visible edges before drawing conclusions.
Is anglage always done by hand?
No. The word describes the result, not the method. Hand finishing is well documented: Blancpain’s published description of file-applied anglage describes the aim as “a flat surface angled at 45 degrees”, with stone polishing as a later preparation step. Marine Buffon, Beveling Artisan at Artisans de Genève, describes the atelier’s method in her own words: “You take the file, shape the bevel by hand, then polish it until it shines with a perfect mirror finish.”
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Machines also form bevels. The Horlogerie Suisse article describes machine milling and industrial production as capable of producing regular bevels, while noting the limits described above for inward corners. Because both approaches can produce a bevel that looks similar at normal viewing distance, a polished edge is not proof of hand work.
Hand work does take time. Horlogerie Suisse (2022) cites up to 10 hours for some pieces. That is the upper example in that article, not a typical duration for all components, and no broader production average was established in the sources reviewed.
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What anglage does and does not prove
Anglage can remove burrs and machining marks, which Breguet notes could otherwise be detrimental. It also creates a visual edge that makes the framing of a component stand out. Those are the documented functions.
What it does not prove is equally important. A bevel does not show that a watch was hand-finished throughout, that it is accurate, or that it is reliable. The sources reviewed do not show that anglage measurably changes rate accuracy, and they do not quantify any operational gain. A loupe can reveal finishing detail, but appearance under magnification says nothing certain about method, origin, or the overall quality of the movement.
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There is also no current official rule tying anglage to a certification such as the Geneva Seal. Do not treat the presence or absence of anglage as a requirement for any label.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.How anglage differs from Geneva stripes and perlage
Anglage is often mentioned alongside other movement finishes, but it is a different kind of work. Breguet distinguishes it from Geneva stripes and perlage, which are surface patterns rather than edge treatments.
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| Finish | Where it appears | Form |
|---|---|---|
| Anglage | Along the edge, where a face meets a side | An inclined, polished bevel, usually around 45 degrees |
| Geneva stripes | Across a component’s surface | Parallel bands, as described by Breguet |
| Perlage | Across a component’s surface | Small, regular, overlapping circles, as described by Breguet |
Avoid calling any shiny edge anglage. A polished case edge or a reflective chamfer on a non-movement part is not the same thing. This explanation concerns movement components.
Practical checklist for looking at a movement
- Identify the bevel first: a narrow inclined band along an edge, distinct from the faces beside it.
- Follow the line along straight and curved edges and note whether the width stays consistent.
- Check the polished surface for regularity and brightness.
- Look at inward corners and endings for a clean, single meeting line.
- Note what is not visible. Limited access through a caseback means limited conclusions.
- Use a watchmaker’s loupe if you want more magnification. It is optional, and it helps you see detail; it does not authenticate the method of finishing.
Used this way, anglage becomes something you can read on the movement: a deliberate edge treatment whose quality you can judge, rather than a badge that settles questions about how a watch was made.
Sources cited in this article: Breguet’s description of the technique and its distinctions from Geneva stripes and perlage; Horlogerie Suisse’s technical article on anglage (2022); Blancpain’s published description of file-applied anglage; and Marine Buffon’s account for Artisans de Genève.
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