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The Chopard Zagato Lab One Concept turns a racing-car chassis idea into a watch structure: a tubular support surrounds the movement, while articulated open loops take the place of conventional lugs. Chopard pairs that design with ceramicised titanium and a hand-wound tourbillon caliber. The reference is 168636-3001, a collaboration with Italian automotive bodywork specialist Zagato, unveiled in Paris on 20 December 2022.
What makes the Zagato Lab One Concept different?
Its defining feature is not simply a motorsport-themed dial or color scheme. Chopard describes a tubular architecture that supports the movement, taking its structural inspiration from racing-car chassis design. The open loops at the sides replace traditional lugs and pivot by approximately 45 degrees on each side, adapting the strap attachment to the wrist.
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Chopard Men's 168513-3001 Mille Miglia Limited Edition Grey Dial Watch | $9,999.00 | Buy on Amazon |
Chopard says the design distributes mechanical stress in the event of impacts and improves structural safety. The product description also presents elastomer “silent blocks” as dampers for vibration and impact, and four lever arms in the caseband as stabilizers for the movement. These are the manufacturer’s stated engineering intentions; they should not be read as independently demonstrated performance results.
How is the case and movement constructed?
The case, movement bridges, mainplate and dial are made from ceramicised titanium, with a sapphire front glass. Chopard gives the material a hardness of 1,000 Vickers and describes its scratch and shock resistance as comparable to ceramic. The published total weight is 43.20 grams including the strap. These figures and material claims are published on Chopard’s product page, which does not state a publication year.
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- Automatic movement
- Grey Dial
- Black rubber strap
- Deployant clasp
- Water resistant to 165 feet (50 M): suitable for swimming and showering
The case measures 42 mm across and 11.15 mm thick. Water resistance is rated to 50 metres. A black fabric strap closes with a titanium pin buckle.
What movement and complications does it have?
The watch uses Chopard’s hand-wound L.U.C 04.04-L caliber. It combines a tourbillon with small seconds and a power-reserve indicator, and has an approximately 60-hour power reserve. Chopard lists the movement as COSC-certified, operating at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), with 232 parts and 29 jewels. The figures are manufacturer-published specifications; the product page does not give their publication year.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.How limited is the edition, and how can you ask about availability?
Chopard lists the Zagato Lab One Concept as a limited edition of 19 pieces. The official product page invites interested readers to contact Chopard, but does not state a price or guarantee present inventory. For current availability, use the contact option on Chopard’s official product page.
Background to the collaboration
Chopard places the watch in a design lineage that includes its 2020 Mille Miglia Lab One concept and the Engine One Tourbillon. Zagato’s official press listing identifies the Lab One Concept unveiling in Paris on 20 December 2022. The collaboration connects Chopard’s watchmaking with Zagato’s automotive bodywork expertise, while the tubular support makes that connection structural rather than merely decorative.
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