The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour tells time with a single minute hand and an hour numeral that advances in a window at 12 o’clock. Its 40.5 mm cushion-shaped steel case draws on a Fears design from 1924, while the jump-hour concept grew out of the brand’s collaboration with Christopher Ward. The Brunswick family began in 2024; the final Ultimus edition’s order window has since closed, with shipping expected to begin in November 2026.
How the Brunswick’s jump-hour display works
There is no conventional hour hand. Instead, a window at 12 o’clock shows the current hour, while a central hand indicates the minutes. As the minute hand completes each hour, the numeral in the window jumps to the next one. The display is mechanical, not digital. Fears describes the Raven Black version’s hour window and moving disc on its product page; Fratello also explains the hour change in its 2024 introduction.
The display changes the way you read the dial: the hour is presented as a numeral, while the minute hand does the moving across the minute track. It is a distinctive alternative to the usual pair of hands, rather than a different way of measuring time.
Movement, dimensions and water resistance
Fears specifies the same core dimensions and movement configuration for the Ultimus: a stainless-steel case measuring 40.5 mm across, 47 mm lug-to-lug and 12.8 mm deep to the top of the domed sapphire crystal. The lugs are 20 mm wide. Those are the brand’s stated specifications on the official Ultimus listing.
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- 1.316L Stainless Steel Case/Screw Crown/Steel Closed Caseback
- 2. Seagull ST1721 Jump Hour Mechanical Movement
- 3. Sapphire Crystal / Diameter: 34.5MM / Case Thickness : 10.4MM / Lug to Lug =45MM
- 4.Comfortable Rubber Strap /5.Butterfly Clasp
- 5.Band Width: 20MM*18
| Specification | Fears’ stated detail |
|---|---|
| Case | Stainless steel, cushion-shaped |
| Width | 40.5 mm |
| Lug-to-lug | 47 mm |
| Depth | 12.8 mm to the top of the domed sapphire |
| Lug width | 20 mm |
| Movement | Sellita SW200 automatic base with Christopher Ward’s JJ01 jump-hour module |
| Power reserve | 38 hours, as stated by Fears |
| Water resistance | 100 m (10 ATM), as stated by Fears |
The SW200 supplies the automatic movement base; the JJ01 module provides the jumping-hour function. Fears lists a 38-hour power reserve and 100 m (10 ATM) water resistance for the Ultimus. These are manufacturer specifications, not independent test results. See the Fears listing and Fratello’s model introduction.
Why the case looks this way—and where the idea came from
Fears traces the Brunswick’s cushion-case shape to a gentleman’s cushion-case watch in its archive, first made in 1924. The brand describes the Ultimus design as influenced by the Art Deco period. The case is therefore a historical reference interpreted in a contemporary watch, rather than a claim that the present model reproduces the original piece. Fears outlines that inspiration on its Ultimus page.
Rank #2
- 1.316L Stainless Steel Case/Screw Crown/Steel Closed Caseback
- 2. Seagull ST1721 Jump Hour Mechanical Movement
- 3. Sapphire Crystal / Diameter: 34.5MM / Case Thickness : 10.4MM / Lug to Lug =45MM
- 4.Comfortable Rubber Strap /5.Butterfly Clasp
- 5.Band Width: 20MM*18
The jump-hour project has a more recent origin. Fratello reports that the 2023 Alliance 01 was a 50-piece collaboration between Fears and Christopher Ward, available exclusively to members of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers. The Alliance 01’s design inspired the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, with the visual language refreshed for the Fears model.
“The Alliance 01 was envisioned as a one-off collaboration between Christopher Ward and Fears. And though there was a temptation to release it as a core piece, we held off. However, I purchased one for my collection and loved the watch. I enjoyed the beauty of the negative space on the dial and the fact that it is a blend of traditional and modern. A jumping-hour display is an incredibly practical way of telling the time, which I appreciated while wearing it.”
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Specht & Söhne Jump Hour Automatic Mechanical Men Watch Sapphire Crystal Stainless Steel Wristwatch (Red-White)
- 1.316L Stainless Steel Case/Screw Crown/Steel Closed Caseback
- 2. Seagull ST1721 Jump Hour Mechanical Movement
- 3. Sapphire Crystal / Diameter: 34.5MM / Case Thickness : 10.4MM / Lug to Lug =45MM
- 4.Comfortable Rubber Strap /5.Butterfly Clasp
- 5.Band Width: 20MM*18
— Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, Fears managing director, quoted by Fratello
Dial editions and the final Ultimus
The original Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour range included different dial treatments, so details from one version should not be applied to every model. Fears’ Raven Black page describes that dial, while its Celestial page specifies aventurine glass and mother-of-pearl and describes that edition as limited to 75 pieces.
Rank #4
- Waterproof depth up to 50m: Watches men engineered to tolerates splashing water and sweating.features screw-down crown protection.(Note: suitable for swimming or bathing and other underwater activities).
- Easy to adjust: scratch-resistant sapphire crystal,316L stainless steel case and bracelet are wear-resistant and the rubber strap is adjustable and comfortable to wear.
- Accurate Time: powered by the Seagull ST1721 Jump Hour Mechanical automatic movement, this men’s watch harnesses natural arm motion for continuous power.
- Classic luxury design: dial diameter is 34.5mm,10.4mm thickness, Lug to Lug =45MM,Band Width: 20mm*18,Comfortable Rubber Strap/Butterfly Clasp. the refined metallic finish transitions seamlessly from professional to casual occasions,It is very suitable for various business, leisure, indoor or daily activities.
- An Ideal Gift for Watch Enthusiasts: Perfect for Father’s Day, Birthdays, Anniversaries, Weddings, Valentine’s Day, Christmas, or Thanksgiving. Thoughtful for father, husband, friend and business associate.
Ultimus is presented by Fears as the final edition. Unlike the Celestial’s stated fixed count, Hodinkee reported that Ultimus was individually numbered but had no fixed edition limit. Its one-week ordering window ran from August 10 to 17, 2026. The official Fears page, checked October 7, 2026, says orders are closed and directs interested readers to a waiting list; it expected shipping to start in November 2026. Stock and waiting-list access can change, so check Fears directly for current status.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.What the editions cost, and when
Prices depend on edition, configuration and date. The 2024 launch prices below are historical figures reported by Fratello, not current offers. The 2026 Ultimus prices were reported by Hodinkee for its limited ordering window; that window has closed.
Best Value
- Waterproof depth up to 50m: Watches men engineered to tolerates splashing water and sweating.features screw-down crown protection.(Note: suitable for swimming or bathing and other underwater activities).
- Easy to adjust: scratch-resistant sapphire crystal,316L stainless steel case and bracelet are wear-resistant and the rubber strap is adjustable and comfortable to wear.
- Accurate Time: powered by the Seagull ST1721 Jump Hour Mechanical automatic movement, this men’s watch harnesses natural arm motion for continuous power.
- Classic luxury design: dial diameter is 34.5mm,10.4mm thickness, Lug to Lug =45MM,Band Width: 20mm*18,Comfortable Rubber Strap/Butterfly Clasp. the refined metallic finish transitions seamlessly from professional to casual occasions,It is very suitable for various business, leisure, indoor or daily activities.
- An Ideal Gift for Watch Enthusiasts: Perfect for Father’s Day, Birthdays, Anniversaries, Weddings, Valentine’s Day, Christmas, or Thanksgiving. Thoughtful for father, husband, friend and business associate.
| Edition and date | Strap configuration | Bracelet configuration | Source and qualification |
|---|---|---|---|
| Original Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, 2024 | £4,250 including VAT on a handmade leather strap | £4,450 including VAT on a five-row stainless-steel bracelet | Fratello, 2024; historical launch prices |
| Final Ultimus, order window August 10–17, 2026 | £4,450 including VAT on strap | £4,750 including VAT with bracelet and strap | Hodinkee, 2026; prices reported for the closed one-week ordering window |
Choosing a strap or bracelet
The case has a 20 mm lug width, so Fears says straps of that width can be fitted. Width alone does not establish that a particular strap will suit the watch in every other respect, or confirm its material, buckle, spring-bar arrangement or availability. The five-row steel bracelet is a model-specific configuration shown by Fears and in the historical pricing above; the sources do not establish third-party bracelet availability.
For current ordering information, rely on Fears’ own Ultimus page. Its checked listing says the order window is closed and points readers to a waiting list; it does not establish that a watch or accessory is currently available to buy.
Quick Recap
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
