Swiss Made is a regulated origin designation, not a promise that every part of a watch is Swiss or that its price represents good value. In his Watch Insider opinion, Robin Swithinbank argues that the industry should stop making the label its central promise and compete more directly on value in the mid-market. That is an argument, not an established industry consensus.
What does Swiss Made mean on a watch?
Swiss Made is governed by legal criteria. A qualifying watch must meet Swiss technical-development and movement requirements, be cased up in Switzerland, and receive its final inspection from the manufacturer in Switzerland. At least 60% of its manufacturing costs must also be incurred in Switzerland. The movement has separate origin and cost conditions. Swiss watch ordinance
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That 60% figure is calculated against manufacturing costs, not the watch’s retail price. Nor does the designation require every component or every step to be Swiss. It establishes compliance with a defined set of origin rules; it is not, by itself, proof of superior quality or a measure of whether a particular watch is worth its price.
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Why does Swithinbank question the label’s value?
Swithinbank’s critique is that the current standard can allow substantial foreign sourcing while still permitting a watch to carry Swiss Made. He sees that as too loose for a designation that has become a central selling point. His proposed answer is to make Swissness more about design and identity than a claim that every material and production step is domestic—and to offer stronger value in the middle of the market.
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- Case Size: 40.00 mm, Band Width: 12, Case Thickness: 10.93 mm
- Automatic movement, 316L stainless steel case, Index dial type, Date
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He also calls for “100%” Swiss value. That is a proposal, not the current legal requirement. The distinction matters: readers can agree that a watch should offer better value without treating the existing origin designation as a guarantee of entirely Swiss production.
Are Swiss watches becoming too expensive?
The concern in Swithinbank’s opinion is that the industry risks concentrating on luxury buyers while leaving people seeking a more accessible Swiss watch with less compelling options. His article cites an unnamed insider’s estimate that 24,000 people worldwide can afford a USD 100,000 watch, then speculates about production aimed at that price level. Neither the estimate nor the speculation is established market data, so it should not be treated as a reliable measure of the addressable luxury market.
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- Case Size: 39.00 mm, Band Width: 20 mm, Case Thickness: 10.98 mm
- Automatic movement, 316L solid stainless steel bracelet, Roman dial type, Date
- Water-resistant up to a pressure of 10 bar (100 m / 330 ft): suitable for short periods of recreational swimming and showering, but no diving or snorkeling.
For broader context, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH reported that exports in the above-CHF 3,000 export-price band declined 1.9% in 2025 and employment in the sector fell 1.3% that year. These are export-price-band and employment measures; they do not verify a change in total watch production volume. FH 2025 export release
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Deloitte Switzerland’s 2025 Swiss Watch Industry Study surveyed 111 senior industry executives, interviewed industry experts, and surveyed 6,500 consumers in Switzerland and major export markets. Deloitte Switzerland’s study overview
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- Movement: Automatic MIDO caliber with Day/Date calendar - Power reserve 80 hours
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- Dial: Blue with grained finish, polished nickelled indexes coated with white Super-LumiNova, day and date at 3 o’clock. Sand-blasted flange with minute indication. Crystal: Sapphire crystal with double sided anti-reflection treatment Crystal: Sapphire crystal with double sided anti-reflection treatmentCrystal: Sapphire crystal with double sided anti-reflection treatment.
- Band Type: Satin-finished stainless steel bracelet with polished central link. Folding clasp with diving extension and engraved MIDO logo. MIDO quick-change system.
In Swithinbank’s account of the study, country of origin ranked among the top five purchase factors only in Switzerland, in fifth place, while value for money ranked first in nine of 13 countries. The official overview confirms the study’s methods and reach, but the exact rankings are not visible in the material available here; attribute those figures to the opinion writer rather than treating them as independently confirmed findings.
What mid-market responses does the opinion identify?
Swithinbank describes Gallet as active and positioned mainly in the CHF 2,000–4,000 range. He also reports that Jean-Marc Pontroué said Breitling would introduce a CHF 4,000–6,000 collection at Watches and Wonders 2027. The report does not identify models, and the future collection has not been independently confirmed here, so it should be understood as a plan reported in the opinion—not a current buying option.
Rank #4
- Case Size: 40.00 mm, Band Width: 20 mm, Case Thickness: 10.23 mm
- Automatic movement, leather strap, Index dial type, Date
- Water-resistant up to a pressure of 5 bar (50 m / 165 ft): suitable for short periods of recreational swimming and showering, but no diving or snorkeling.
The article credits Longines and Tudor with doing some of the work of serving mid-market buyers, and challenges brands including Omega, TAG Heuer, IWC, Panerai, Bulgari, Rolex, and Cartier to respond. These are Swithinbank’s judgments, not comparative market findings established by the cited sources.
What should a watch buyer take from the debate?
- Read Swiss Made as a regulated origin designation with multiple conditions, not as a claim that every part is Swiss.
- Keep the 60% figure in context: it concerns manufacturing costs, not retail price.
- Judge value separately from origin. A Swiss designation does not settle whether a specific watch’s price, design, finishing, movement, or after-sales support makes sense for you.
- Distinguish current legal requirements from Swithinbank’s proposed stricter standard and from his opinions about which brands are responding well.
The marriage metaphor in Swithinbank’s headline captures his argument: “The marriage of watchmaking and Swiss Made was beautiful while it lasted.” His point is not that Swiss identity has become meaningless, but that the label alone may no longer be enough to persuade buyers who want a stronger case for what a watch costs.
Quick Recap
Best Value
- COSC Certified Chronometer
- Case Size: 39.00 mm, Band Width: 20 mm, Case Thickness: 10.98 mm
- Automatic movement, 316L solid stainless steel bracelet, Roman dial type, Date
- Water-resistant up to a pressure of 10 bar (100 m / 330 ft): suitable for short periods of recreational swimming and showering, but no diving or snorkeling.
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