Oyster Perpetual Submariner: The Watch That Unlocked the Deep is best approached as an illustrated, readable brand history—not as a definitive collector’s reference. In Bruce Duguay’s October 1, 2024 review for Time+Tide, he says he was glad he bought it, praising its storytelling and archival imagery while noting its Rolex-authorized perspective and limited technical depth.
What book is this?
Nicholas Foulkes’s Oyster Perpetual Submariner: The Watch That Unlocked the Deep is a 252-page hardcover published by Wallpaper* in partnership with Rolex. The listed edition is ISBN 9781805218937. Simon & Schuster distributes the edition, while ACC Art Books provides US and Canada title information. The book is described by its publisher as the first authorized wide-ranging history of the Submariner.
ACC Art Books’ US and Canada datasheet lists 209 color and 41 black-and-white illustrations and a price of $125.00. That is a territory-specific listed price, not a guarantee of what the book currently costs at a particular retailer. Simon & Schuster Canada lists it at $169.00 and notes retailer prices may vary. Check local availability and pricing before ordering.
What does the book do well?
It tells a history rather than cataloguing a watch
Duguay’s strongest praise is for Foulkes’s narrative treatment of the Submariner’s postwar development, naval testing and diving history. He finds the account more engaging than a dry sequence of specifications. Letters reproduced from archives show setbacks as well as eventual Admiralty support, giving the story some friction rather than presenting development as inevitable.
#1 Best Overall
The photographs and marketing history add texture
The archival and historical images are a central part of the book’s appeal in Duguay’s assessment. He also singles out the discussion of Rolex marketing and product placement as interesting context for how the watch became culturally visible. Readers drawn to the story around the object—not only its reference numbers—are likely to get the most from these sections.
How much is about the Sea-Dweller?
Despite the title’s focus on the Submariner, the book gives substantial attention to related deep-diving history, including the Sea-Dweller, the Deep Sea Special, Comex and James Cameron. Duguay considers this material worthwhile, but observes that the title may not prepare readers for how much space these watches and expeditions receive alongside the Submariner story.
Is it a useful collector’s reference?
Not as a standalone, exhaustive technical guide. Duguay says collectors looking for comprehensive reference numbers, dial variations, production nuance and detailed coverage of later references will not find a definitive catalog here. The book does include a reference list and production figures near the back, but he notes that the figures are not independently explained. Treat them as figures presented in the book, not as independently verified production statistics.
If your main purpose is identifying a specific Submariner variant or researching fine-grained production differences, pair this history with a specialist reference. Duguay mentions Jose Perez’s work as more exhaustive in some areas, but the available bibliographic and comparative detail is not sufficient to make a full title-by-title comparison here.
Rank #3
- Browse images and historical and technical details of the most reliable Rolex models including the Submariner Cosmograph and Yachtmaster which divers auto-racers and boat captains trust for their precision and durability.|Includes updated reports written about new Rolex ideas and performance tests featured in the German watch magazine Armbanduhren (Wristwatch) from the past 15 years.|Features more than 185 color photographs.|Plus a price guide!
Does Rolex’s involvement make it a brochure?
The project was commissioned and supported by the company whose watch it covers, so a brand-controlled perspective is part of the book’s context. Duguay regards the possible “brochure effect” as a fair question, but concludes that the historical storytelling and source material make the book more substantial than a simple promotional piece. He also observes that Rolex terminology and brand messaging remain visible.
That distinction matters when reading the book’s framing. Rolex’s own historical account presents the Submariner as a tool watch that became an icon, citing details such as crown guards, film appearances including Sean Connery as James Bond, the Submariner Date’s introduction in 1969 and the Triplock winding crown from 1970. These are the company’s institutional history and marketing perspective, rather than independent verification of every historical claim. Likewise, Rolex’s account of the Oyster case describes the line as fulfilling a pledge made in 1926 for a reliable, precise and waterproof timepiece; that is Rolex’s own framing.
Rank #4
Wallpaper* Store reproduces Rolex Director of Communication & Image Arnaud Boetsch’s description of it as “this first authorized history” and calls the partnership a launch of a “fascinating history” written by Nick Foulkes. That statement establishes Rolex’s stated position on the project, not independent endorsement.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Who should buy it?
- Consider it if you want a handsomely illustrated, readable account of Submariner history and its relationship to diving, exploration and Rolex’s public image.
- Look elsewhere or supplement it if you need exhaustive reference data, detailed dial-variation coverage or a deeply granular guide to later models.
- Go in with the right expectation if you prefer independent histories: this is an authorized project, and its brand perspective is part of the reading experience.
Verdict
Duguay’s verdict is a qualified yes: he was glad he purchased it. His review supports recommending the book to watch fans who value narrative and photography, while drawing a clear line around its usefulness as a technical collector’s encyclopedia. Whether it is worth the local asking price depends on which of those purposes matters more to you.
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