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Only Watch 2024 has concluded: on 10 May, Christie’s auctioned 47 unique watches at Geneva’s Palexpo, and Only Watch reports that every lot sold for a total of CHF 28,320,000. A week before the sale, six Time+Tide staff members picked favourites from the catalogue. Their choices were personal highlights, not a ranking, and the estimates below are pre-auction estimates—not hammer prices.
Six different reasons to notice a lot
The Time+Tide feature, published on 3 May 2024, ranged across complications, unusual materials, traditional craft and unconventional design. Its picks are best read as six distinct expressions of watchmaking, rather than as an objective ranking of the sale.
| Staff pick | Lot | What stood out | Pre-auction estimate |
|---|---|---|---|
| Zach | TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds | Split-seconds chronograph and project-specific texturised titanium case | CHF 150,000–300,000 (Time+Tide) |
| Buffy | Bovet Orbis Mundi Only Watch | World-time display, magenta guilloché and pocket-watch-inspired details | CHF 52,000–65,000 (Time+Tide) |
| Borna | Petermann Bédat x Auffret Paris Chronomètre d’Observatoire | Collaborative movement reworking and traditional finishing | CHF 50,000–100,000 (Time+Tide) |
| D.C. | ArtyA Purity Moissanite | 600-facet moissanite case | CHF 40,000–50,000 (Time+Tide) |
| Jamie | Patek Philippe ref. 6301A-010, lot 32 | Grande and Petite Sonnerie, Minute Repeater, in a unique steel version | CHF 1,500,000–1,800,000 (Only Watch lot page) |
| Russell | F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu | Stealth-like dial, tantalum case and bracelet, and a new calibre | CHF 200,000–400,000 (Time+Tide) |
Chronograph mechanics: TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds
Zach’s pick
Time+Tide describes this Monaco as TAG Heuer’s first split-seconds chronograph movement, developed with Vaucher as calibre TH81-00. A split-seconds chronograph can time an intermediate event while the main chronograph continues, making the complication relevant to lap timing. The feature also singled out the texturised titanium case, a material developed at the TAG Heuer Institute for this project. It says the movement later entered standard production; that does not make this particular Only Watch configuration a regular retail model. Time+Tide printed an estimate of CHF 150,000–300,000.
World time with theatrical detail: Bovet Orbis Mundi
Buffy’s pick
Buffy was drawn to the contrast between an elaborate presentation and a practical world-time display. The red-gold case takes inspiration from antique pocket watches, while a bow detail at the crown recalls Bovet’s design language. On the dial, Monaco replaces Geneva on the world-time display, alongside hot-magenta guilloché, a 20-second running-seconds display and a seven-day power-reserve indicator. A bluish-purple alligator strap completes the distinctive palette. Time+Tide’s pre-sale estimate was CHF 52,000–65,000.
#1 Best Overall
- ⌚ MENS WATCHES ANALOG: Mens military watches made with shock-resistant stainless steel case and anti-scratch mineral window, exquisitely crafted and durable. Men's watch strap width: 22mm / 0.86 inches, stainless steel case: 42mm / 1.65 inches.
- ⌚ MILITARY WATCHES FOR MEN: This mens field watch is very suitable for active lifestyles, with a comfortable double nylon strap, will suitable for personal use and good for anniversary, graduation, business, birthday , the father's day , Christmas .
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- ⌚ EASY TO READ TIME: 12 / 24 hrs military time and luminous dial. The mens watches equipped with date calendar can tell you the time quickly and accurately. Come with luminous function, easy to read the time even in the dark.
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Observatory chronometry and collaborative finishing
Borna’s pick: Petermann Bédat x Auffret Paris
The Chronomètre d’Observatoire appealed to Borna as a collaboration built around movement work. Time+Tide describes it as based on a Zenith 135 observatory chronometer, retaining the original gear train while Petermann Bédat and Theo Auffret reworked the movement. The feature points to an engraved silver dial with gold markers, plus black polishing and anglage. Those construction and finishing details are the staff feature’s account; the official auction sources cited here do not independently document this lot. Its printed estimate was CHF 50,000–100,000.
A case made to command attention: ArtyA Purity Moissanite
D.C.’s pick
D.C. chose the Purity for its visual impact: Time+Tide describes a moissanite case cut with 600 facets and says the material is exceptionally difficult to machine. The feature contrasts that prominent exterior with a comparatively restrained movement. It also calls this the first use of moissanite in watchmaking; that is Time+Tide’s claim, not an independently verified fact in the official auction material cited here. The estimate printed before the sale was CHF 40,000–50,000.
Rank #2
- 【DIGITAL MULTIFUNCTION WATCHES】 ⌚:Appeals to mens, especially to those who like doing sports, shock resistant, stop watch, and LED back light functions make it perfect for all kind of sport and daily use
- 【3ATM WATERPROOF WATCHES FOR MEN】⌚:Mens wrist watches is waterproof 30M/3ATM, suitable for sweat-proof, rain-proof and hand-wash. BUT NOT for bathing, swimming, diving, or immersion in water. Please avoid hot water and steam. Note: Keep your hands dry before pressing the button; do not press underwater.Fashion and casual style, suitable for most indoor or outdoor activities.
- 【Mens Analog Watch】⌚ Mens watch made with anti-scratch mineral dial window, exquisitely crafted. Ultra soft silicone strap, wear-resistant and scratch-resistant, breathable, easy to maintain. Men's wrist watch is an ideal present for you and your loved ones.
- 【Mens Digital Watch】⌚ Simple and easy-to-operate functions, with Waterproof, 12/24 hours switch, alarm clock, hourly alarm and daily alarm, Auto Date, Stop Watch, LED Light
- 【Purchase without Worry】⌚ This stylish and simple sport work watches surprising woemen watch casual watch is very suitable for active lifestyles, will suitable for personal use and good for anniversary, graduation, business, birthday, Christmas, for father, boyfriend, or other male friend, classmates.
Striking complications in steel: Patek Philippe ref. 6301A-010
Jamie’s pick
Jamie selected the unique steel version of Patek Philippe’s Grande and Petite Sonnerie, Minute Repeater. The feature highlights a hand-guilloché blue-green enamel dial, baguette diamond markers, power-reserve indicators and deadbeat seconds. Only Watch’s official lot page identifies it as lot 32, confirms the unique steel ref. 6301A-010 and lists an estimate of CHF 1,500,000–1,800,000. Time+Tide predicted it would be the sale’s most expensive lot; that was a pre-auction prediction, not a result established by the overall sale release.
Stealthy sports-watch design: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu
Russell’s pick
Russell’s choice combined the watch’s hard-to-read, stealth-like dial with a sports-watch form in tantalum, including a matching bracelet. Time+Tide describes a new calibre 1522, with power reserve and moon phase on the reverse, and identifies the central seconds hand as a first for the brand. The feature considered whether the design might hint at future production, but it does not establish any later production decision. Its pre-sale estimate was CHF 200,000–400,000.
Rank #3
- CLASSIC RETRO CASIO DESIGN A timeless digital watch that has remained an icon for decades. The vintage square face and polished stainless steel bracelet deliver a clean, minimalist style that complements casual, business, and everyday wear for both men and women.
- RELIABLE EVERYDAY DIGITAL FUNCTIONS Stay organized with practical features including a 1/100-second stopwatch, daily alarm, hourly time signal, auto calendar, and selectable 12/24-hour time format—everything you need in a dependable everyday
- LONG-LASTING 7-YEAR BATTERY Powered by a dependable CR2016 battery designed to last approximately seven years under normal use, giving you years of worry-free performance with minimal maintenance.
- LIGHTWEIGHT & COMFORTABLE Weighing only 46 grams, the slim profile and adjustable stainless steel bracelet provide exceptional comfort for all-day wear. The self-adjustable clasp allows for a customized fit on a wide range of wrist sizes.
- TRUSTED CASIO QUALITY Built with Casio's legendary reliability, this water-resistant digital watch features a durable chrome-plated resin case, stainless steel bracelet, LED backlight for nighttime visibility, and quartz accuracy of approximately ±30 seconds per month.
What happened at the auction
Only Watch’s official result release says the 10th edition took place at Geneva’s Palexpo under Christie’s hammer on 10 May 2024. It reports 47 unique creations donated by 52 brands, all sold, for CHF 28,320,000 in total. That release gives the overall total, not individual hammer prices for the six picks discussed here.
Only Watch says its fundraising mission supports research on Duchenne muscular dystrophy and that founder Luc Pettavino created the organisation in 2005. Its 10 May 2024 result release attributes the continuing research effort to the generosity of participants. These are the organisation’s stated purpose and account; the sources cited here do not independently audit how funds were used.
Quick Recap
Best Value
- Nursing Watch: Easy to read second hand watch for nursing, glows in the dark, simple and fashionable design for nurses, doctors, and medical professionals
- Easy to Read Design: Nurse watch with second hand, night-illuminated dial, 24-hour display, 38mm large face with Arabic numerals, clear and easy to read for nursing professionals during night shifts
- Water Resistant: Waterproof watches for nurses, 3ATM water resistance (depth 30 meters), suitable for medical watch use during nursing and experimentation
- Silicone Watch Band: Women's analog watch with silicone strap, soft and comfortable, no elasticity, doesn't stretch, fits your wrist better, easy to clean, 8 adjustment holes on the strap for easy size adjustment, fits small wrists from 15.2 cm to 20 cm
- Nurse Gift: Simple and fashionable nurse watch, suitable as nursing gifts including birthday gift, Christmas gift, Valentine's Day gift, and Nurse's Day gift
Rank #4
- Micro Light, Hourly Time Signal, Auto Calendar
- 12/24 Hour Formats
- Dial Code: Digital
- Water Resistant
- Daily Alarm
Sources
- Time+Tide: staff picks and pre-auction estimates, 3 May 2024
- Only Watch: official 2024 result release, 10 May 2024
- Only Watch: official Patek Philippe lot 32 page
- Only Watch: official project and mission page
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