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Our Favourite Independent-Brand Watches of 2024: Five Picks

Borna Bošnjak’s five independent-brand watch picks range from the retrograde Ōtsuka Lōtec No. 6 to Greubel Forsey’s compact Nano Foudroyante EWT.
Estimate3–4 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team
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Time+Tide Watches contributor Borna Bošnjak selected five independent-brand watches associated with 2024: the Ōtsuka Lōtec No. 6, Holthinrichs Signature, Kallinich Claeys Einser Zentralsekunde, Berneron Mirage 34 and Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT. The list, published on 6 January 2025, is a personal selection—not a comprehensive survey, objective ranking or account of comparative testing.

How to read the five picks

Bošnjak’s choices span very different ideas of independent watchmaking: a retrograde display with a futuristic, industrial look; a 3D-printed case shaped by hand finishing; a classically styled watch whose movement is the focus; a stone dial with a carved sub-dial; and a compact high-complication chronograph. The reported prices below are figures in the Time+Tide article, not current quotes or verified present-day availability.

The five watches

Ōtsuka Lōtec No. 6

At ¥440,000 (approximately US$2,800), the No. 6 was Bošnjak’s pick for watch of the year. He singled out its brutalist, steampunk character and a retrograde module built on a Miyota 9000 base; the article also notes its GPHG award. His enthusiasm is captured in a deliberately personal aside: “I solemnly swear that this will be the last time I write about this watch until I actually buy it.”

Holthinrichs Signature

The article lists the Signature Ornament at €3,500 (approximately US$3,600) and the Signature Lab at about US$6,300. It discusses the use of 3D printing alongside hand finishing, and says the Ornament shared the Lab’s SW300 modifications. The Lab’s first series had sold out by the article’s publication; that is a historical availability note, not an indication of current stock.

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Kallinich Claeys Einser Zentralsekunde

Listed at €24,950 (approximately US$26,000), the Einser Zentralsekunde pairs a traditional exterior with movement finishing that Bošnjak emphasizes. The article identifies its makers as Johannes Kallinich and Thibault Claeys, both formerly at Lange.

Berneron Mirage 34

The Mirage 34 was listed at CHF 48,000 (approximately US$53,000). Bošnjak’s preferred detail is its stone dial, including a sub-dial carved into the stone. He sets the 34 mm model against the Mirage 38, which the article says was first released at the end of 2023.

Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT

The article gives a price of CHF 465,000 (approximately US$512,000) and dimensions of 37.9 mm across by 10.49 mm thick. Its complication set combines foudroyante seconds linked to the tourbillon cage with a flyback chronograph. The stated power reserve is 24 hours with the chronograph running—a qualification that matters when considering the watch’s functions together.

At a glance

Watch Reported price in the 6 January 2025 article Distinctive point highlighted
Ōtsuka Lōtec No. 6 ¥440,000 (approximately US$2,800) Brutalist, steampunk design; retrograde module based on Miyota 9000
Holthinrichs Signature Ornament: €3,500 (approximately US$3,600); Lab: approximately US$6,300 3D printing and hand finishing; Ornament shares the Lab’s SW300 modifications
Kallinich Claeys Einser Zentralsekunde €24,950 (approximately US$26,000) Classical appearance and movement finishing; made by Johannes Kallinich and Thibault Claeys
Berneron Mirage 34 CHF 48,000 (approximately US$53,000) Stone dial with a sub-dial carved into the stone
Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT CHF 465,000 (approximately US$512,000) 37.9 mm case, 10.49 mm thick; foudroyante seconds and flyback chronograph

Prices and conversions in the table are reported by Time+Tide on 6 January 2025; they should not be read as current retail prices. Read Bošnjak’s original selection at Time+Tide Watches.

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Other watches mentioned, but not among the five

The roundup also mentions Simon Brette’s black-dial Chronomètre Artisans, which Bošnjak left out because he did not consider it a new watch for this list. Other contextual mentions are Konstantin Chaykin’s ThinKing prototype, Bovet’s Récital 28, described in the article as calculating daylight saving time, and Qin Gan’s Pastorale II. They are not additional picks in the five-watch selection.

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What the selection says about independent watchmaking

The five choices are useful as contrasting examples, not as a definitive measure of an entire market. The No. 6 leans into an unconventional display and assertive design; the Einser takes a more classical route and draws attention to finishing; the Mirage makes its stone dial central to its identity; Holthinrichs foregrounds case-making and hand work; and Greubel Forsey combines several complications in the smallest stated dimensions of its entry. Bošnjak’s preferences shape the selection, so the article does not establish that one is objectively better than another.

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Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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