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Repair common Windows errors and clear accumulated junk for a smoother, more stable PC - no reinstall needed.Free scan · no reinstallAfter the 1932 Ref. 96 established the Calatrava’s round-watch template, later references changed its movement, case and dial in measured ways. The milestones range from the first self-winding Patek Philippe wristwatch to the Clous de Paris bezel’s return across generations—and, in Ref. 3960, a distinctive Officer’s watch. This is a selection of important models, not a complete catalog.
Ref. 96 set the pattern—and Ref. 96D added a signature detail
Patek Philippe dates the Ref. 96 to 1932 and describes it as the first model in its catalog to carry a reference number. Its manually wound caliber 12-120 and restrained round case made it an archetype for the classic wristwatch. The company’s official chronology traces the Calatrava’s subsequent changes against that foundation.
In 1934, Ref. 96D kept the manual 12-120, applied hour markers and curved lugs, while adding a guilloched Clous de Paris bezel. That small, pyramid-like pattern became one of the line’s recurring decorative motifs: a way to give a spare round watch texture without abandoning its basic silhouette.
Refs. 570 and 565 explored size and practicality
Ref. 570: a larger, more varied expression
The secondary account in Monochrome Watches’ Calatrava history describes Ref. 570 as a larger round model with a flat, coin-edge bezel and integrated lugs. It appeared with numerous dial variations, showing how the Calatrava formula could accommodate changes in display and decoration while retaining a round case.
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Ref. 565: a practical alternative
Monochrome presents Ref. 565 as a more practical variation, including steel examples and a screw-down caseback. Those are secondary-source descriptions rather than details established by the manufacturer chronology; they help explain the reference’s place alongside the more formal-looking models.
Ref. 2526 brought self-winding to a Patek Philippe wristwatch
Patek Philippe dates Ref. 2526 to 1953 and calls it the first Patek Philippe wristwatch with a self-winding movement, caliber 12-600 AT. That precise wording matters: shorthand claims about the “first automatic Patek” can be contested, including in discussion of Ref. 2552. The manufacturer’s formulation is the clearest supported milestone.
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Monochrome highlights the Ref. 2526’s double-baked enamel dial and its move toward rounded case edges and a convex bezel. The contrast with the Ref. 96 is not a break with the Calatrava idea but an adaptation of it: a new winding system and softer case profile within a classic round design.
Ref. 3520D brought Clous de Paris into a new era
Patek Philippe’s chronology dates Ref. 3520D to 1972 and specifies a manually wound caliber 177, a dial with Roman-numeral hour and minute markers, and straight lugs. The model family also included flat-bezel examples, according to Monochrome, so the hobnail decoration should not be attributed to every Ref. 3520.
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The 3520D’s Clous de Paris bezel renewed the decorative language first seen on Ref. 96D. Paired with straight lugs and Roman numerals, the pattern gave the watch a more defined presence while preserving the restrained round case.
Ref. 3919 made the hobnail bezel instantly recognizable
Introduced in 1985, Ref. 3919 is among the most recognizable Calatravas with a Clous de Paris bezel. Patek Philippe’s 2021 retrospective identifies its manually wound caliber 215 PS and says the model was produced for 20 years. Its familiar configuration combines subsidiary seconds, Roman numerals and straight lugs. The bezel motif thus became more than a detail: it was a visual shorthand that later references could revisit.
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Ref. 3960 took the Calatrava in an Officer’s direction
Ref. 3960, released for the collection’s 1989 anniversary, is a separate design story. Monochrome describes it as the Calatrava collection’s first Officer’s watch, with a hinged hunter-style outer back and an engraved inner caseback. Other reported details include straight lugs with screwed gold bars, a turban-style crown, an enamel dial with painted Breguet numerals, blued hands and subsidiary seconds.
Monochrome gives the case diameter as 33 mm and reports production totals of 2,000 yellow-gold, 150 white-gold and 50 platinum examples. Those dimensions and totals are claims from that secondary account, not figures confirmed here by Patek Philippe. The hinged back and elaborate dial make Ref. 3960 a clear departure in function and presentation from the collection’s simplest time-only forms.
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The Clous de Paris line continued through Refs. 5115, 5120 and 5119
Patek Philippe’s chronology places Ref. 5115 in 2000, Ref. 5120 in 2001 and Ref. 5119 in 2006. The sequence shows the persistence of the hobnail bezel beyond the best-known 3919. In its 2021 retrospective, the manufacturer describes Ref. 5119 as a reinterpretation of Ref. 3919: the case grew from 33.5 mm to 36 mm, while the watch retained straight lugs and manual caliber 215 PS.
Another official source, Patek Philippe’s Calatrava collection page, presents the 6119 as a 39 mm revival of the motif, with design references to earlier Calatravas. The change in diameter marks a clear step in scale, but the continuing bezel pattern links it to the 3919 lineage. Thierry Stern, Patek Philippe’s president, described the generational connection in the company’s 6119 feature: “When I look at the 3919, I see my grandfather. When I look at the new 6119, I am looking at my sons.” He also characterized its design brief as “a new watch, that still has a classical line and that a younger generation would love to wear”.
Modern Calatravas extend beyond the original time-only formula
The Calatrava remains a collection rather than a single fixed design. Patek Philippe’s current collection page says it began with Ref. 96 in 1932 and has since acquired a variety of complications. The page identifies these introductions by year: Ref. 5226G-001 (2022), Ref. 6007G-010 (2023), Ref. 5328G-001 (2025) and Ref. 7200/50G-001 (2026). These are introduction dates listed by the manufacturer, not a guarantee that each model is currently available in every market; availability changes by time and location.
How to verify the history of a specific vintage Calatrava
For a particular watch, Patek Philippe’s Extract from the Archives can document its manufacturing history, key features and sale date. The company’s current terms say a watch is eligible if it was first sold at least 10 years earlier; the listed fee is CHF 500, with delivery within 10 weeks after order confirmation. These service terms can change, so consult the live page before ordering. An archive extract is manufacturer documentation, not an assessment of a watch’s present condition.
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