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Alan Birchall’s Pièce d’Essai No.00 is a prototype, not a watch currently offered for sale. In a 2025 interview, the watchmaker described a design shaped by French and English traditions, a movement he says he made largely with hand-operated machinery, and 2.5 years of work from first sketch to finished prototype. His account also offers a clear view of the craft—and the limits of what is known about the project’s next steps.
Who is Alan Birchall?
Birchall told MONOCHROME Watches that he is French and British by background, grew up in France, later lived in the UK and Australia, and is now based in Japan. He said he had worked as a watchmaker for 16 years at the time of the interview, published on 17 September 2025. His father and grandfather were watchmakers too.
He studied watchmaking in France for five years. His early professional work was at a Swiss-brand service centre in the UK, where he serviced in-house movements, module complications and perpetual calendars. In Australia, he worked on a broader range of watches, including recent and vintage Rolex and Omega, as well as Chopard and Patek Philippe. These details come from Birchall’s interview account, rather than independently verified employment records.
What is the Pièce d’Essai No.00?
No.00 is Birchall’s handmade watch prototype. He described it as a meeting of French and English watchmaking influences, drawing on British pocket watches and French clocks. He wanted the design to reflect the manually operated machines used to make it and to put the movement’s components on display.
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A front-facing balance wheel is one of the watch’s defining visual features. Birchall said the movement measures 30 mm and the case 35.40 mm. He linked those compact proportions to his preference for small, elegant watches and to his own small wrist. The dimensions are the maker’s figures as reported in the 2025 interview, not measurements independently verified by the publication.
How did Birchall make the prototype?
Birchall said the movement has 81 individual parts, excluding the jewel, crystal, hairspring and mainspring; he said those four items would always be outsourced. He reported making 80% of the parts in-house without CNC, using a hand-operated milling machine and lathes, with the remaining 20% outsourced. He also said he made the dial, hands and case himself.
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Materials and finishing
The dial is satin-finished German silver. The stainless-steel case uses a three-part construction with four separate lugs. Birchall’s finishing description includes gold-plated brass components with delicate anglage, mirror-polished train wheels and balance wheel, and mostly poli-noir steel bridges and parts.
The most demanding component
Birchall singled out the pallet fork as especially difficult. He said he milled it with a 0.25 mm endmill and drilled it with a 0.105 mm drill before finishing it by hand. He described time as the biggest challenge: “The biggest challenge was time; it took me 2.5 years from the first sketch to the final watch.” Both the tooling dimensions and the project duration are his reported figures.
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Is the Pièce d’Essai No.00 available to buy?
No. Birchall told MONOCHROME Watches that No.00 was not available for sale. He said he wore the prototype to identify changes and improvements. The 2025 interview does not establish a current price, delivery time or live ordering route.
At the time, Birchall was working on “number 1,” which he expected to resemble No.00 while allowing clients to influence finishing and potentially choose a larger case. He also said he was working to bring outsourced components in-house and hoped eventually to take individual orders, one by one. Those were plans described in 2025, not confirmation that orders are currently open or that the plans have since been completed.
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What Birchall hopes to build next
No.00 is both a finished prototype and a way for Birchall to refine his approach before a potential next watch. His stated aim was to continue making watches individually, with room for client input, while bringing more of the work in-house. He framed the project’s audience this way: “I hope I can connect with people who are interested in this kind of watchmaking and who support independent watchmaking.”
For readers considering a future order, the interview leaves practical terms unresolved: it does not confirm availability, price, case options, delivery timing or the scope of any client choices. A present-day offer would need to be verified directly with Birchall.
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