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Rolex Submariner Date 116659SABR: White Gold, Blue Dial and Gem-Set Bezel

The Rolex Submariner Date 116659SABR pairs a blue dial and white-gold construction with diamonds and sapphires. Here’s what catalogs establish—and what they don’t.
Estimate3–4 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team
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The Rolex Submariner Date ref. 116659SABR is a gem-set version of the Submariner, cataloged with an 18k white-gold case and bracelet, a blue dial, and diamonds and sapphires. Its familiar dive-watch design is reshaped by the stones—and by details such as the bezel’s color pattern. Auction catalogs document examples, but do not establish a current price, production total, or complete production history.

What is the Rolex Submariner 116659SABR?

It is a Rolex Submariner reference described by Sotheby’s and Phillips as a blue-dial watch in 18k white gold, set with diamonds and sapphires. Catalogs commonly call it a Submariner Date. Phillips lists an automatic caliber 3135 movement and date display for its cataloged example; that is a published specification, not a hands-on inspection of every watch bearing the reference. Sotheby’s catalog entry and Phillips’ Geneva Watch Auction XXIII entry describe individual examples.

Phillips explains “SABR” as French abbreviations referring to sapphires and brilliant diamonds. That is the auction house’s explanation of the letters, rather than a naming statement independently verified from Rolex. Phillips’ catalog essay supplies that interpretation.

What makes the design different?

White gold and gemstone setting

Rather than the conventional metal-and-insert appearance of a standard Submariner, the 116659SABR combines a white-gold case and bracelet with stones on the bezel and case/lugs in cataloged examples. The exact setting should be checked on the individual watch: catalogs describe particular lots, and their descriptions alone do not authenticate another example or establish that its stones are original.

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A blue, gem-set bezel

Phillips describes one cataloged bezel with 36 baguette-cut blue sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds, including lighter blue sapphires from 12 to 3 o’clock. In its description, the lighter stones across the first 15-minute section echo the timing graduations of a standard Submariner. These counts and placements belong to that cataloged example, not necessarily every watch offered under the reference.

Rolex describes the standard Submariner and Submariner Date family bezel as unidirectional and graduated to 60 minutes. That is family-level context; it is not a reference-specific technical sheet confirming the construction or operation of the 116659SABR’s gem-set bezel. Rolex’s Submariner family page gives the general description.

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A dial identification clue

Christie’s catalog notes that its 116659SABR example lacks the “1000ft = 300m” depth-rating text seen on other Submariner dials. That omission can help compare a watch with the cataloged example, but it is not proof of authenticity by itself. Christie’s lot record documents the observation.

What specifications are documented?

Detail What catalogs say
Reference and model 116659SABR; described as Submariner or Submariner Date by Sotheby’s and Phillips.
Case and bracelet 18k white gold in the cited Sotheby’s and Phillips catalog descriptions.
Dial Blue in the Sotheby’s and Phillips descriptions; Christie’s notes the absence of “1000ft = 300m” on its cataloged example.
Movement and date Phillips lists automatic caliber 3135, 31 jewels, and a date display for its 2019 cataloged example.
Size Sotheby’s gives 40 mm for its example; a separate Phillips catalog gives 41 mm. These are lot-specific catalog measurements, not a settled universal dimension.
Gem setting Phillips describes diamonds and sapphires on its example, including 36 baguette-cut blue sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds in one catalog essay.

The dimensional difference is a reason to consult the documentation for the particular watch rather than assume a single measurement from a reference number alone. Condition, polishing, accessories, and paperwork likewise vary by individual example.

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How should you assess a particular 116659SABR?

Visual resemblance and a matching reference description are not enough to establish authenticity, originality, or value. When comparing a watch with catalog examples, consider the whole evidence set:

  • Confirm the reference and movement documentation with a qualified watch specialist.
  • Compare the case, bracelet, bezel stones, stone layout, and dial against reliable records; establish whether the gem setting is original rather than aftermarket.
  • Inspect condition, including any polishing, and check what papers, box, or other accessories are actually included.
  • Use dated, specific comparable sales or a current appraisal for a valuation, rather than treating an old estimate or one result as a universal price.
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How much does the Rolex 116659SABR cost?

There is no current asking price or reliable present-day market value established by the cited catalog records. Phillips’ Geneva Watch Auction XXIII listed an estimate of CHF 70,000–140,000 and recorded a result of CHF 120,650 for its particular lot. Those figures describe that dated auction and lot, not the current value of every 116659SABR. Sotheby’s and Phillips records show specialist-auction market appearances, but do not establish current availability, production quantity, or the model’s full production span.

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