Sevan Bıçakçı introduced his first watch collection at Watches & Wonders Miami in February 2019: 85 individual watches conceived and created by the Turkish-born jeweler. Rather than treating them as interchangeable models, the collection carried his jewelry-making techniques into horology, pairing miniature sculpture, engraving and gemstones with Swiss ETA quartz or mechanical movements.
What was the 85-watch launch?
It was Bıçakçı’s debut watch collection, unveiled in Miami in February 2019. Forbes reported that he spent nearly a decade designing and developing the 85-piece series, with each watch conceived and created entirely by the designer. The pieces were described as unique works, not variants in a standard model lineup. Forbes, February 25, 2019; a separate Forbes preview of Watches & Wonders Miami also identified the debut as an 85-piece custom collection.
The artistic ambition did not mean the watches were merely decorative: Forbes reported that the collection used Swiss-made ETA quartz and mechanical movements. The movement type and artistic treatment varied by piece; the available reporting does not establish a complete specification for every watch.
How did Bıçakçı bring jewelry craft into watchmaking?
The collection translated techniques associated with Bıçakçı’s jewelry into watch cases, dials and other details. Forbes described miniature sculpture, engraving and reverse carving, alongside precious-metal and gemstone work. Reported materials included platinum, 18-karat rose gold, 24-karat yellow gold, sterling silver, diamonds, pearls and other gemstones.
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Sapphire crystals were also part of the reported design vocabulary, with some faceted or reverse engraved. Forbes said straps were made of leather and carved or gem-set in Bıçakçı’s Istanbul workshop. These details were not universal specifications: the 85 one-offs differed in their materials, treatments and decorative compositions.
Motifs and details varied from watch to watch
Forbes cited Byzantine daisies, water lilies, dragonflies, birds and intricate geometric scenes among the collection’s imagery. Such motifs appeared across the varied designs, rather than on every watch. Reverse gemstone carving and miniature sculptural work helped make the pieces read as jewelry-led art as well as timepieces.
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Why did the collection look to Ottoman clocks?
The project drew on Bıçakçı’s interest in Ottoman clocks and in the time and attention demanded by devoted craft. Forbes connected the concept to a 2007 visit to an exhibition of 18th- and 19th-century Ottoman clocks. The collection’s emphasis on timelessness and beauty was therefore an artistic point of view, not a claim that the watches lacked functioning movements.
In Roberta Naas’s Forbes report, Bıçakçı described the process this way: “They didn’t rush in the process,” says Bicakci. “That’s exactly what I wanted to accomplish with my timepieces. Let the beholders’ minds drift from time consciousness to a fresh way of enjoying the moment.”
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What did the watches cost at launch?
Forbes reported a price range of about $180,000 to $2 million per watch on February 25, 2019. That is a launch-era figure, not a current price guide. Current availability, pricing and retail channels for the watches have not been established here, so the 2019 range should not be treated as an offer or an estimate of today’s market value.
Was there a book accompanying the watches?
Yes. The companion volume Sevan Bicakci: The Timekeeper, written by jewelry historian Vivienne Becker and published by Assouline, debuted alongside the watches, according to Forbes. Current retailer stock for the book has not been verified.
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What happened after the 2019 debut?
World Red Eye reported that eight one-of-a-kind timepieces from the collection were shown at an exhibition during Art Basel/Miami Art Week in 2025. That later exhibition offers a glimpse of the collection’s continued public display; it does not establish where the other watches are or whether any of the 85 are currently for sale. World Red Eye, December 4, 2025.
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