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The Allure of Japanese Independent Watchmaking: Kikuchi Nakagawa’s Murakumo

A closer look at the Murakumo by Japanese watchmaking duo Kikuchi Nakagawa: its classical dial, sculptural spade hands, mirror-like black polish and specifications reported in 2021.
Estimate3–4 min Catalogued SpecialistWatchRanker Team
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The Murakumo’s appeal lies in a careful balance: a classical three-hand layout, expressive spade hands and a steel case finished to a mirror-like polish that can appear black at certain angles. In Thor Svaboe’s 2021 Fratello feature, the watch becomes a lens on the Japanese independent duo Kikuchi Nakagawa and their interest in the clean lines of 1930s and 1940s wristwatches.

Who are Kikuchi Nakagawa?

Kikuchi Nakagawa is the watchmaking partnership of Yusuke Kikuchi and Tomonari Nakagawa. Svaboe’s October 2021 feature says Kikuchi had previously made watches under his own name before partnering with Nakagawa. It connects their shared aesthetic to wristwatch design from the 1930s and 1940s, especially a preference for purity of line.

The feature’s headline asks whether Kikuchi Nakagawa might be “a Japanese Dufour in the making.” That is an appreciative comparison by the author, not an established equivalence, formal affiliation or watchmaking category. The Murakumo can be considered on its own terms: its design, proportions, finishing and movement are the evidence the feature actually presents.

What makes the Murakumo distinctive?

The Murakumo is a restrained three-hand watch with small seconds at six. Its black dial combines Breguet numerals and a minute track with unusually shaped spade hour and minute hands. The feature also points out small silver dots within the five and seven hour markers—subtle details in a layout that otherwise keeps a classical appearance.

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The steel case has a step bezel, but its finish is the most striking element in Svaboe’s description. The case’s mirror-like surface shifts in appearance with the angle of the light, giving an otherwise traditional form a more dramatic presence.

What is black polishing?

Svaboe describes the Murakumo’s finish as black polishing, also known as poli noir. In his account, a component is moved across a smooth zinc plate with fine abrasive paste and mild pressure until the steel is flat and mirror-smooth. The resulting surface can reflect light so sharply that it looks black from certain angles.

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The feature emphasizes how labor-intensive this approach becomes on large, complex shapes such as the Murakumo’s case and hands. Rather than a color coating, the visual effect comes from the polished steel surface itself. This explanation reflects the process as described in the 2021 article.

What are the Murakumo’s reported specifications?

The figures below are those reported by Svaboe in 2021; they should not be read as current manufacturer-confirmed specifications.

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Feature Reported detail
Case diameter 36.8 mm
Case height 8.5 mm
Strap width 22 mm leather strap
Movement Automatic Vaucher VMF 5401
Power reserve 48 hours
Frequency 21,600 vibrations per hour
Movement details Sunray Côtes de Genève decoration and an off-center tungsten rotor

The reported combination of a 36.8 mm diameter and 8.5 mm height gives the Murakumo relatively compact case dimensions on paper, while the 22 mm strap is broad in relation to that diameter. Svaboe relates this visual balance to the period designs that inspired the duo. Fit and appearance on the wrist will still depend on the wearer and strap.

What does the movement and display offer?

The feature identifies the movement as an automatic Vaucher VMF 5401 and reports a 48-hour power reserve at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour. On the dial, the watch keeps to three central hands and a separate small-seconds display at six; the article does not describe additional complications. It also notes the movement’s sunray Côtes de Genève decoration and off-center tungsten rotor.

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What did the 2021 article say about ordering?

Svaboe reported a 24-month order lead time in the context of his October 2021 feature. That is a historical report, not a current estimate. The article does not establish the Murakumo’s present price, availability, order process, lead time or service terms; those details need confirmation from a current source before making a purchase decision.

Where can you read the original feature?

Thor Svaboe’s original article, published October 22, 2021, is “The Allure Of Japanese Independent Watchmaking: Part Two — Kikuchi Nakagawa”.

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Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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