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The Best Watches & Wonders 2025 Releases: Gérard’s Picks

Fratello’s Gérard Nijenbrinks picked a Grand Seiko chronograph, Tudor dive watch, and understated Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 as his Watches & Wonders 2025 favorites.
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Fratello’s Gérard Nijenbrinks chose the Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009, Tudor Pelagos Ultra, and beige-dial Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 as his three main Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025 picks. They are personal favorites—not an objective ranking—and reflect three different kinds of appeal: a bold chronograph, a technically ambitious diver, and a restrained everyday watch.

What makes these Gérard’s picks

Nijenbrinks’s list is based on what stood out when he tried watches on at the fair. As he put it, “So my list contains the models that, once on my wrist, did ‘best’ for me.” His preference generally runs toward smaller watches, which makes his enthusiasm for the 43 mm Grand Seiko an exception rather than a change in the list’s personal nature. These impressions are his, not the results of independent performance testing. Read Gérard Nijenbrinks’s original Fratello article.

Gérard’s three main picks at a glance

Watch What drew Gérard to it Details reported in the Fratello article Article-era price
Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009 Bold case, brown dial, specially designed rubber strap, and movement 43 mm titanium chronograph; 9SC5, 60 jewels, 36,000 vibrations per hour, three-day power reserve €17,500
Tudor Pelagos Ultra Overengineered dive-watch character and technical ambition Not stated in the article’s details summarized here €6,030
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36, beige dial Restrained color and a size that felt comfortable to him 36 mm, reference 126000; no-date dial and Oyster bracelet €6,400

The prices above are figures in Fratello’s April 14, 2025 article, not confirmed current retail prices. Prices and availability can vary by market and change over time.

Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009

A large chronograph that won him over

At 43 mm, the titanium Tokyo Lion Tentagraph is the largest of these three picks by the stated case measurement, and its scale runs counter to Nijenbrinks’s usual preference for smaller watches. He nevertheless liked its bold presence and the fit of its specially designed rubber strap. The brown dial and 9SC5 chronograph movement were further highlights for him.

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Michael Kors Men's Watch, Slim Runway Three-Hand Black Stainless Steel Men's Watch
  • STYLE: This Michael Kors Slim Runway mens watch features a black sunray dial, three-hand movement and black stainless steel bracelet
  • CASE & DIAL: This watch for men has a round 44mm stainless steel case with a black dial; mineral crystal face resists scratches
  • WATCH BAND: A mens wrist watch with a black gray stainless steel bracelet band; 22mm band width; links can be removed for a customized fit
  • PRECISION TIMEKEEPING: A men's watch with Quartz movement and three-hand analog display; imported
  • SWIM-READY Water Resistant: This wrist watch for men is wearable while swimming in shallow water up to 50m (165ft); 5 ATM

Movement and price

Fratello reports that the 9SC5 has 60 jewels, runs at 36,000 vibrations per hour, and provides a three-day power reserve. The article lists a recommended retail price of €17,500 at the time of publication. Those are article-era specifications and pricing; consult Grand Seiko for current regional details.

Tudor Pelagos Ultra

Engineering over understated simplicity

The Pelagos Ultra appealed to Nijenbrinks as an example of the technically ambitious dive watches he enjoys. He wrote that it could persuade him to add a Pelagos to his own collection. That is a statement of personal enthusiasm, not a claim that it outranks other divers on an objective performance measure.

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Price context

Fratello gave the Pelagos Ultra an article-era price of €6,030. The article details summarized here do not specify further dimensions or movement figures, so this comparison does not infer them. Check Tudor or an authorized retailer for current price and availability in your market.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 with beige dial

The understated choice

Nijenbrinks preferred this beige-dial Oyster Perpetual to the Land-Dweller as a matter of taste. The Fratello article identifies it as reference 126000, with a 36 mm case, no-date dial, and Oyster bracelet. He found the size and restrained dial color especially appealing on his wrist.

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  • WATCH BAND: Wrist watches for men with a gold-tone stainless steel bracelet; links can be removed for a customized fit
  • WATER RESISTANT MENS WATCH: Up to 50m (165ft); Wearable while swimming in shallow water; 5 ATM

Price context

The article lists €6,400 as the Oyster Perpetual 36’s price at the time. That is not a verified current price; Rolex pricing and availability should be checked locally.

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Other watches that stayed with him

Beyond his three principal picks, Nijenbrinks also discussed the Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer, particularly the Volcano and Glacier limited editions; the Zenith G.F.J. with Calibre 135; and two elaborate Jacob & Co. pieces, the Astronomia Four-Axis Tourbillon and Opera Godfather clock table. These are memorable supporting mentions, not additions to his main three. Edition, production, and price details for them are not needed to understand his shortlist and may be time-sensitive.

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The show behind the shortlist

Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025 was scheduled for April 1–7, 2025. The Foundation’s September 2024 announcement named 60 exhibiting brands and reported 49,000 visitors at the previous April edition. See the Foundation’s 2025 exhibitor announcement. Fratello reported that the 2025 event drew more than 55,000 visitors, citing the show’s closing announcement; that attendance figure is reported by Fratello here, rather than independently verified in this article. Browse the official 2025 novelty index, which includes Grand Seiko, Rolex, and Tudor among its brand entries.

How to use this list when choosing a watch

  • For a statement chronograph: the Grand Seiko is the pick Gérard singled out despite its 43 mm size, with a titanium case, brown dial, and rubber strap.
  • For a technical diver: the Pelagos Ultra represents the engineering-led option that resonated with his interest in overbuilt dive watches.
  • For a simpler everyday watch: the 36 mm beige-dial Oyster Perpetual is the more restrained selection, and its appeal to Gérard centered on color and wrist fit.

These watches occupy different roles, so Gérard’s list is more useful as a snapshot of contrasting design and wearing preferences than as a single-scale contest. Try to assess case size and fit on your own wrist, and verify specifications, price, and availability with the brands or authorized sellers before buying.

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Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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