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The Rolex Day-Date Tridor is identified most readily by its unusual President bracelet: links combine white, yellow and pink (or rose) gold. Auction catalogues document examples around 1990, including reference 18239B, but they do not establish a single definitive launch year, production total or specification that applies to every Tridor.
What is a Rolex Day-Date Tridor?
“Tridor” refers to the three-colour-gold treatment, not a separate Day-Date complication. In the documented examples, the signature is the President bracelet, whose links combine white, yellow and pink gold. Phillips describes a white-gold case paired with yellow-, white- and pink-gold centre links; Sotheby’s catalogues a white, pink and yellow gold watch with a three-colour President bracelet. Phillips’s catalogue entry and Sotheby’s reference 18239 record show the term in use for specific auctioned watches.
The bracelet is the clearest visual clue in these records, but it is not by itself proof that an individual watch is original. A complete assessment needs to consider the case, bracelet, markings and other components together.
How to identify a Day-Date 18239B
Reference 18239B is strongly associated with Tridor examples in auction records: both Dorotheum and Phillips use it for circa-1990 watches. Sotheby’s, however, catalogues a Tridor as reference 18239 without the B suffix. The auction records therefore do not support treating the suffix as a requirement for every watch described as Tridor.
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For a specific watch, compare more than the reference printed in a listing. Useful points include:
- Reference and caseback: check the case and caseback markings. Phillips records a 18239B whose inside caseback is stamped 18200, illustrating why one catalogue marking alone cannot settle originality.
- Case and bezel: establish the metals and whether the configuration matches the claimed example.
- Bracelet and clasp: inspect the three-colour links, end links, clasp markings, fit and length.
- Dial and setting: compare dial colour, markers, date display and any gem setting.
- Movement and dimensions: confirm the calibre and measurements against the particular watch’s documentation, rather than assuming all Tridors share one configuration.
- Provenance: weigh papers, box, service records and evidence of originality alongside the physical watch.
A qualified watch specialist should assess an individual example in person; catalogue descriptions are not authentication certificates.
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What do documented examples tell us about specifications?
Two circa-1990 18239B auction examples are listed as 36 mm and fitted with automatic calibre 3155, with 31 jewels. Those are useful reference points, not universal specifications. Sotheby’s circa-1990 reference 18239, for example, is catalogued with calibre 3135 and 31 jewels, also in a 36 mm case. Dial details, gems, case treatment, bracelet dimensions and included accessories likewise vary by lot.
| Auction record | Catalogue details | What it establishes |
|---|---|---|
| Dorotheum, lot 432, auction dated 26 May 2023 | Reference 18239B, circa 1990; 750 gold case described as yellow, white and red; approximately 36 mm; automatic calibre 3155, 31 jewels; gold-coloured dial with 10 diamonds, date and central seconds. Box, warranty and instruction manual were listed. | Details of that catalogued lot only. |
| Phillips, reference 18239B, year 1990 | 18k white, yellow and pink gold; automatic calibre 3155, 31 jewels; 36 mm; tri-colour President bracelet with maximum listed length of 185 mm. | Details of that lot; the bracelet length is the maximum listed, not a universal fit measurement. |
| Sotheby’s, reference 18239, circa 1990 | White, pink and yellow gold; automatic calibre 3135, 31 jewels; 36 mm; day/date and three-colour gold President bracelet. | A Tridor catalogue description with a different reference suffix and calibre from the two 18239B records. |
When was the Tridor introduced?
The auction-house accounts differ. Phillips’s catalogue essay says, “In the mid-1980s, Rolex introduced the Tridor (three gold) version of the Day-Date.” Dorotheum’s 2023 listing instead says the first Day-Date with a yellow, red and white gold band arrived in 1988. These are attributed auction-house statements, not a settled launch chronology; an official Rolex historical source establishing the date is not available in these records.
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Dorotheum also describes the Tridor as part of the “Crown Collection” and says production had been discontinued by the early 2000s. Those are claims made in that auction listing, not independently established Rolex production history. The available records do not provide a production total or definitive start and end dates.
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The cited auction figures are historical evidence about particular lots, not a current valuation. Phillips reports a sale result of CHF 33,020 for its 18239B example. Dorotheum’s listing for its 26 May 2023 auction gave an estimate of EUR 19,000–28,000; that range is an estimate, not a realized price. The currencies, dates and figures describe different lots and should not be treated as equivalent market quotes.
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For any individual watch, condition, originality, service history, dial, gem setting, bracelet condition and documentation can affect a transaction. These catalogue records do not establish a present-day fair-market value or price a particular watch.
What the records do—and do not—establish
The Tridor is a genuine Day-Date variant represented in auction catalogues, most visibly by its three-colour-gold President bracelet. The records support identifying 18239B as a common associated reference, while also showing a reference 18239 example. They do not establish a production count, one universal movement or configuration, a definitive chronology, or current Rolex service and parts availability. Confirm those practical questions with Rolex or an authorized service provider before relying on a seller’s assurance.
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